Are you re-using old crush washers?  If so, heat them with a torch until they are red hot, then let them cool slowly.  Take the cooled washers and sand them flat by placing a piece of wet/dry paper on a piece of new MDF or a piece of plate glass.  Remove all the burrs and raised areas from both sides of the washers.

Look at the place the banjo seats.  Is it clean?  Is it flat?  If not, dress the surface to make it flat and clean.

Several years back there was an issue with the subframe end of the braided lines. One has a deeper inset area for the banjo bolt than the other. It will bottom out and not seal if installed in the shorter one.

The banjo bolt SHOULDNT bottom out.  If it does, it wont put full sealing pressure on the banjo, copper washers and union.

If the top of the s/frame is dry, and the leak is underneath, it must be a badly made brake hose.

All,

In trying to get the car ready for next weekend's all British field meet here in Portland, my son and I installed braided brake lines.  Bad idea at this point - we now have a hefty leak at the banjo fitting in the front - I've looked at past posts that say just to put two copper crush washers on instead of one, which worked a treat on the leak we were having ABOVE the subframe. 

Now however, we have a leak below the subframe.  I believe that the added washer now keeps the banjo bolt from bottoming out/sealing on the line coming in from the wheel. 

Makes no sense to me - how are you to have the precises sized crush washers that allow enough sealing to keep the banjo from leaking, and are EXACTLY the right size so the banjo bolt (7H7995) that holds the whole thing together seals up well with the line coming in from the wheel??

Unless someone has thoughts on a way through this, I'm going to try to source a standard rubber hose and hope it gets to me by Thursday night, and I can install it with no issue.    Any help appreciated!

Scott