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 Posted: Nov 12, 2019 04:31AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortyMiniC137
That something I'm genuinely not sure about.

Would I hook-up a compression tester for pistons? Or do I need to run the car with some sort of gauge hooked up?

Im concerned measuring the back-pressure may be really hard because flowing exhaust gases should create some sort of positive pressure.


Side note: I replaced all the vacuum lines with some silicone ones and got a performance intercooler installed. Its the borg-wagner coated IC and so far I have hit 21PSI in sport mode. Thats the highest boost pressure I have hit yet, and it didn't throw any codes, CEL, or limp mode. 
It seems like cold starts and until the car is at ideal temps, it wants to do all of the above, but if I clear the codes after stopping and the car is at temp, I can usually drive without any problems, more so in sport mode.

Generally speaking, more than 1.25 psi of backpressure at idle, or more than 3 psi at 2,000 rpm tells you there's an exhaust restriction.

The exhaust pressure gauge can be used at the upstream O2 sensor port, just above the catalytic converter. Remove the O2 sensor, secure it away from any moving parts, then install the gauge. This will trigger a check engine light, but it should clear itself after the sensor is re-installed and driven a few miles.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2019 05:36PM
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That something I'm genuinely not sure about.

Would I hook-up a compression tester for pistons? Or do I need to run the car with some sort of gauge hooked up?

Im concerned measuring the back-pressure may be really hard because flowing exhaust gases should create some sort of positive pressure.


Side note: I replaced all the vacuum lines with some silicone ones and got a performance intercooler installed. Its the borg-wagner coated IC and so far I have hit 21PSI in sport mode. Thats the highest boost pressure I have hit yet, and it didn't throw any codes, CEL, or limp mode. 
It seems like cold starts and until the car is at ideal temps, it wants to do all of the above, but if I clear the codes after stopping and the car is at temp, I can usually drive without any problems, more so in sport mode.

 Posted: Nov 5, 2019 04:15AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortyMiniC137
Thanks for the response, it's very helpful as always. 

I replaced the hose with a reinforced rubber one for flexibility. 

Yesterday my new MAF sensor came in and I swapped it on the car, but it made no difference.

I am thinking your valve-lift situation is very plausible, as well as an O2 sensor (top) problem. Something I read said that a faulty or problematic O2 sensor will cause rich conditions. Since I'm no longer seeing misfires consistently (like one or 2 pending, but never fault and never the same cylinder) I feel the valve high-lift issue is less likely. Therefor, I will try changing the O2 sensor first. 
Since you mentioned the O2 sensors, I started to wonder the condition of the catalytic converter? Any way for you to check the back pressure at the upper o2 sensor port? (this would also cause premature wear in the turbo.)

 Posted: Nov 4, 2019 05:51PM
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Thanks for the response, it's very helpful as always. 

I replaced the hose with a reinforced rubber one for flexibility. 

Yesterday my new MAF sensor came in and I swapped it on the car, but it made no difference.

I am thinking your valve-lift situation is very plausible, as well as an O2 sensor (top) problem. Something I read said that a faulty or problematic O2 sensor will cause rich conditions. Since I'm no longer seeing misfires consistently (like one or 2 pending, but never fault and never the same cylinder) I feel the valve high-lift issue is less likely. Therefor, I will try changing the O2 sensor first. 

 Posted: Oct 28, 2019 07:07AM
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Have you replaced the PCV hose - the one with the sheath covering it? - I have read the sheath hides cracks in the hose....

Here is something I found that might be related:

With modern engines there can be another cause. In engines with variable valve lift (high/normal and low) at some times low valve lift is active. Cold start and maybe even with the engine up to temperature but at idle. (Low lift reduces engine friction and has the engine experiencing less pumping loss which improves gas mileage and lowers emissions.)

If a valve lifter has a non-functioning high to low lift switch over mechanism a valve can stay in high lift mode when all others are in low lift mode. Because of this the cylinder gets more air than the others and it misfires because it is lean.

This is a hard condition to diagnose. With some cars for which I have a factory manual the process can require a road test with two techs in the car one driving and the other equipped with a special diagnostics computer to monitor O2 sensor readings.

 Posted: Oct 24, 2019 08:55PM
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UPDATE:
Its very hard to tell what disconnecting the MAF did, the car kinda freaked out but then it kinda acted the same. I am going to let the car get to temp driving it for a bit, clear the codes and unplug the battery for a bit, then start the car with the sensor disconnected and drive it, to see what the engine/computer think.

I actually replaced the turbo 2 days ago and while I have more boost and more consistency, I am still getting P1497. I genuinely thought this would be the fix, I was relying pretty heavily on the idea that the waste gate was not sealing properly or operating properly. 

I'm going to upgrade the intercooler and hopefully my oem one is cracked. HOWEVER, I need to understand this code more.


People have stated its an amount of unmetered air after the MAF, but that's very broad. Does this mean positive unmetered air? Like somehow I am taking on more air pre- or post-boost? Or could this be as far as the CAT sensors, like I am seeing more air somewhere post-combustion or is one of those sensors defective? 

If anyone has any insight on this code, it would be greatly appreciated. I have spent over $3k and 95% of my own time and labor on this single problem. Today is a day I am actually discouraged about my outlook on this car. I want to restore and improve it, but if I can't keep spending every bit of my money and free time just fixing my only car.

 Posted: Oct 21, 2019 03:45AM
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How did it go?

 Posted: Oct 18, 2019 12:24PM
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This, and replacing the turbo or other sensors, are the last things I have to try. I'm going to try this this evening. Thanks for the input!

 Posted: Oct 17, 2019 09:17AM
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 Without commenting on all the things you have done and what the problem might be, whenever I have had a problem with any of my  fuel injected engines I have had all sorts of misleading codes, but the first thing I have done is disconnect the mass airflow sensor and let the engine run on default settings. Easy to do . If that solves your problem then just replace the MAF .I have no experience with a direct injection engine but surely it has a MAF. 

 Posted: Oct 16, 2019 07:25PM
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So I ended up replacing the VANOS solenoid because of something else I had read. It roughly stated the VANOS system can have adaptations and an intake valve can get stuck in a weird rhythm of high-lifts while the car might be operating at an economic pace with lower lift and fuel levels. Sometimes this came from a failed VANOS solenoid, and the design has been updated so I gave it a swap, and changed oil and filter. 

Last weekend I pulled the vent house that goes to the intake manifold and inspected it for cracks. There may have been a small hairline split, so I actually pulled both quick-connects off each end of the hose and slipped them into the ends of a 3/8" reinforced fuel-safe line. Now the line it a smoother curve in it with no bends and fits nicely. 

I took my hose to the intake manifold off when I pulled out the VANOS solenoid and found a small collection of what seemed to be road-clay and/or rust-dust. It the weirdest thing. I am assuming it could be from a failing turbo or the intercooler itself. 

I still have a check engine light and can trigger lim mode whenever I want. I still get P1497 constantly. I am going to change the turbo next week, butI am worried this may not be the whole problem. Any ideas? 

 Posted: Oct 8, 2019 10:05AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortyMiniC137
I may try that. I changed the diverter valve and it fixed nada, I also swapped out the gasket on the pcv hose on the passenger side in case it was leaking at the connection. I am gonna be throwing a new turbo on it in a week or so, we will see if that fixes to too. But in the mean time I may order that hose with the turbo install parts. 
keep us updated...

 Posted: Oct 2, 2019 03:31PM
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I may try that. I changed the diverter valve and it fixed nada, I also swapped out the gasket on the pcv hose on the passenger side in case it was leaking at the connection. I am gonna be throwing a new turbo on it in a week or so, we will see if that fixes to too. But in the mean time I may order that hose with the turbo install parts. 

 Posted: Oct 1, 2019 04:38AM
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If the pcv outlet is leaking, would a new pcv hose fix the problem? Conditions are different at idle vs when loading the engine under power. I would eliminate this issue as a possible contributing factor....

 Posted: Sep 30, 2019 04:08PM
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So I did a walnut blast on the intake track, replaced the intake manifold gaskets, did the timing chain and guides, replaced the crank seal and my belt. Then I did a little seafoam treatment to clean off any dust and residual gunk. 

I smoke-tested the car again and the pcv outlet (that feeds back into the intake track) was leaking at its connection to the valve cover and a tiny bit on the intake side. I did my best to reseal these and replaced the hose so it would be less stretched out. 

The car idles wonderfully and start-up is pretty quiet. I went for a drive with the Mini mechanic that helped me out, and after we let the car get up to temp, we tried giving it some oomf. It still threw the P1497. I drove it yesterday to and from work and ran the codes, it also showed a misfire in cylinders 2 and 3, as well as a multiple misfires code. 

We smoke-tested the car 3 times and only found the pcv 'exhaust' side that feeds into the intake track, to be the only slight problem. We got it damn close to not leaking anything, and the mechanic assured me that it can't be that, the leak isn't big enough to allow any air in if were under vacuum. 

I have replaced almost all the failure-prone parts I am aware of, aside from the turbo and diverter valve. A Mini specialist suggested I do the DV because even if under inspection, they seem okay, they can often have failures you can't see.

I am considering doing the pressure converter, boost lines, and DV.

Any thoughts? I am bleeding money at this point, my car has a factory tune and does not see any harsh driving conditions. I am kind of disappointed because I haven't pushed the car in months and every part I replace make the car feel even better, but then the limp mode always returns. 

 Posted: Sep 30, 2019 04:58AM
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Let us know how the weekend fixes worked out.

Fyi, I just read another post where someone replace a Vanos valve to eliminate the P1497 error - maybe you might remove yours, inspect and clean it.....

 Posted: Sep 26, 2019 04:20PM
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So I was going to change the spacer out and put the bypass back on, but I had stripped the hex bolts removing the darn thing the first time. I inspected it the other day when I wanted to go back to OEM, and it looked fine, I even played with it a bit to see if I could find a tear or crack. A reliable source told me if I am eventually going to go with a bigger turbo anyways, I should get a new one to use with that, so I will replace it to see if that solves my problem. 

As far as he hpfp goes, I am still having the boost leak code and an occasional pending 'idle higher than expected' code. The HPFP may have not needed replacing actually, I did it because so many people have had similar symptoms to my car's and replacing it solved all of them. For me, I got a more consistent idle following the change and misfire codes went away, but that could also be related t my new coils and plugs. 

The thermostat housing was Febi bilstein I believe, I did not have to use any sort of adapter and my cooling system seems to be working great. The electrical connection on the thermostat housing was even oriented at the EXACT same angle as my OEM housing, I was rather impressed. 

Compression- I have not checked it, but my valves look like a septic tank, I will be walnut blasting them this weekend with a timing chain/guide replacement, crank seal replacement, and belt change.

As far as codes and limp mode, it shows P1497 every time. Sometimes I have a pending high idle code or something that doesn't place the car into limp. 

The other night I found one of my hoses disconnected. It was one that quick-connects to the one of the parts on the underside of the intake manifold, I really thought I had found my problem and drove the car for almost 2 miles without a CEL or limp mode. My car almost felt normal and great, then as I turned onto the on-ramp for the freeway, I noticed the power dropped and when I put my foot down a bit more Limp mode came on.  

Thanks kenatminimani and anyone else for your help, I will keep checking and updating this as I work on the issue.

 Posted: Sep 23, 2019 04:16AM
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My suspicion would have been the HPFP, but it looks like that is one of the last things you replaced and still have the codes and running issues?

You also mentioned a spacer on the bypass valve that makes it function as a blow off valve? - I would get that back to stock to eliminate that as a potential problem.

Did you replace the thermostat housing with a MINI factory replacement or aftermarket - and did the replacement require a wiring adapter?

This may be unrelated, but have you checked the compression?  Wondering if excessive carbon buildup on the pistons might be contributing to the problem (changes to the cr)?

After all that you have replaced, are you still having limp mode, and what are the error codes currently?

 Posted: Sep 22, 2019 05:08PM
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2009 MCS R56 - about 86k on it.

I have been having a ton of issues and lots of different codes, so I started replacing stuff. I have had misfire codes (P0303 and P0304), idle air control system RPM higher than expected (P0507), multiple misfires detected (P0300), boost leak (P1497), and a few I don't remember.

So far: I had a coolant leak, so I replaced the thermostat, water pipe, and pump.
Then I started having the limp mode and CEL problems.

The guys at the dealership ran codes, inspected my timing chain, and did a smoke test for me and found my catch can was leaking air, so I deleted the catch can and reconnected the PCV directly to the intake track. Still had a boost leak code.

Then I did spark plugs and coils. Car felt great but goes back into limp and reactivates the CEL.

I was getting weird, really rough idles, with no turbo spool or pressure release/recirculation (I have the spacer installed so it can blow-off rather than recirculate). If I had been driving for a few minutes and the engine was warm, the RPMs would climb and hold (usually at exactly 1,500 or 2,000 RPM) until I gave it a light rev, then it would fall, sometimes this would keep it at idle, sometimes it would just keep revving.
They did another smoke test and we discovered my valve cover was also leaking air/smoke from near the PCV itself.

So I replaced my valve cover.

I still get the limp mode and CEL back after clearing the codes and driving it. I start getting the symptoms like I described before, the revving issue when stopped, the lack of turbo-spooling and no feeling of boost, and the boost leak code.

So I replaced the HPFP and the flexible hose for it. Same code and CEL, no limp mode for over 3 days of driving about 10-15 miles.

I also did a fog light replacement and replaced the exhaust seal/gasket (mine was in pieces) because I had the bumper off and had a bit more room. I inspected my turbo on the block and the shaft of the turbine has light play and so does the actual waste gate. The guys at the dealership showed me a bad turbo with more play but they explained the symptoms and said while my turbo may be old and worn, it's not bad enough to warrant replacing, they insist I have to find this boost leak to see if eliminating that will give me a diagnosable problem, or a fix to the current problem.

I need some serious help. I have removed and inspected my recirc. valve but found no cracks or tears.
I did some starting fluid boost-leak checks on the charge pipe near its sensor and where it comes from the intercooler, as well as the intake manifold. No signs of a leak.
My valves look pretty bad, so I will need a walnut blast in the next 2,000 miles.
I will be replacing my crank shaft seal and belt, as well as possibly doing the timing chain (no cracks or breaks in my guides luckily, just a degree or two out of sync), all in the next week or 2.

I'm sure you may have more diagnostic questions for me, so I won't expand more. I have included as much relevant info as I can. I just want to get it running normal again so I can continue putting upgrades on it. Any help is much appreciated.
All your help is appreciated.