Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Oct 15, 2019 01:08PM
Total posts: 8186
Last post: Nov 14, 2019
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by kd
Walmart has the Valvoline VR1  and it is 20w50 and works perfectly fine in a street Mini. Just remember to check the carb oil and the engine oil on a regular basis. Number one problem with new Mini owners is that they are never shown the basics... So the carb needs oil and the engine needs 5 quarts of 20W50 with Zinc and if it has an oil cooler 6 quarts. Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic works fine but if using that add 2 ounces of Red Line engine break in additive per oil change and the filter on the middle years is PH3600. Same as Ford Escort.
Buy the highest octane gas you can and avoid gas that contains Ethanol.
I use the Valvoline 20W 50 as well it seems to withstand the Florida heat well.
The Fram PH 3600 is a good cross reference filter but i stopped using them when i did some comparison checking, other filters seem to be a much better quality inside which is what counts.
I always buy 6 quarts and seem to use 5.5 quarts or a little more oil when doing an oil change depending on the Mini and what filter (long or short) i use but i always try to use the long one (larger capacity) whenever possible.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 14, 2019 06:55PM
kd
Total posts: 1394
Last post: Oct 14, 2019
Member since:Mar 9, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Walmart has the Valvoline VR1  and it is 20w50 and works perfectly fine in a street Mini. Just remember to check the carb oil and the engine oil on a regular basis. Number one problem with new Mini owners is that they are never shown the basics... So the carb needs oil and the engine needs 5 quarts of 20W50 with Zinc and if it has an oil cooler 6 quarts. Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic works fine but if using that add 2 ounces of Red Line engine break in additive per oil change and the filter on the middle years is PH3600. Same as Ford Escort.
Buy the highest octane gas you can and avoid gas that contains Ethanol.

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Oct 14, 2019 01:25PM
Total posts: 155
Last post: Oct 15, 2019
Member since:Aug 28, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I remember why Rotella isn't a good choice, they don't make a 20w50.  They only go up to 15w-40.

 Posted: Oct 14, 2019 01:18PM
Total posts: 155
Last post: Oct 15, 2019
Member since:Aug 28, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2

I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...

Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use.  Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.  

As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it.  Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.  

As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...

Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.

Cheers, Ian

I put 'racing oil' in quotes.  It's a US legal thing because it has too much zinc to be sold anymore as passenger car oil.  From the manufacturer, this oil is designed for:

  • o Specifically formulated for race-level protection in all classic and modern high-performance vehicles, including flat-tappet and performance cam engines
  • o High zinc and phosphorus formula for extreme anti-wear protection

Unlike typical racing oils, it is also designed for a normal 3000 mile oil change.

Rotella diesel oil, which is also rated for cars, might be a cheaper solution.  It is available as conventional, blend or full synthetic and it also has high zinc but I don't remember anyone talking about it on the mini forum. 

 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 06:56PM
Total posts: 9072
Last post: Nov 15, 2019
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
As Chuck said, there were changes in oil additives implemented several years ago across the U.S.  Of particular importance was the removal of the zinc additive ZDDP which is typically referenced as being important for flat tappet engines (like the A-series).

I buy VR1 when it is on sale (regular price around here is $8/qt for dino oil and $10 for synthetic).  Brad Penn (formerly Kendall) is another racing oil that is available with ZDDP but it is largely mail order and not found in many stores.   I am sure there are other brands if you hunt and are willing to pay shipping.

There are lots of ZDDP additives you can pour into more commonly available oils.  I am not above that.  

Doug L.
 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 06:36PM
Total posts: 1615
Last post: Nov 13, 2019
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2

I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...

Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use.  Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.  

As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it.  Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.  

As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...

Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.

Cheers, Ian

Hey Ian, Hasn't the Castrol 20W50 formula changed since we used to use it though. I thought it doesn't have the zinc and other additives anymore that the A-series needs...
Must be a local thing.... Our (widely recognised) top engine builder recommends supermarket oil in his engines for normal use.  

I tried it for one change but found it wilted pretty quickly.  So went back to synthetic I've been using for the last 26years/150K miles/....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 03:47PM
Total posts: 10288
Last post: Oct 26, 2019
Member since:Dec 3, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
1963SV2, the U.S. oil sold at a normal store is not good for old cars, like our Minis, and hasn't been for some time. Legal rules have changed the mixture that can be sold as regular oil. Stores can sell oil with what we need, but they have to sell it as "racing oil" because one wouldn't be buying "racing oil" to run in a street car now would they! Well, yes, for the Mini owners. I changed to VR1 several years ago.

 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 02:57PM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Oct 24, 2019
Member since:Oct 8, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Whee .  You're right I found them in my junk mail. For some reason my mac won't let me go there so I looked on my PC and I found yours and others. Thank you. 

 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 02:03PM
Total posts: 3221
Last post: Nov 15, 2019
Member since:Jul 20, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2

I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...

Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use.  Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.  

As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it.  Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.  

As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...

Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.

Cheers, Ian

Hey Ian, Hasn't the Castrol 20W50 formula changed since we used to use it though. I thought it doesn't have the zinc and other additives anymore that the A-series needs...

 Posted: Oct 13, 2019 01:56PM
Total posts: 1615
Last post: Nov 13, 2019
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...

Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use.  Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.  

As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it.  Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.  

As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...

Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Oct 11, 2019 09:25AM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Oct 24, 2019
Member since:Oct 8, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thank you for the help.
Tomrosewood

 Posted: Oct 11, 2019 07:47AM
Total posts: 3221
Last post: Nov 15, 2019
Member since:Jul 20, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
I also use the Vr1 20/50 racing oil. Regular oil changes are a must as well due to the shared oil.

Tom - please check your email junk folder. I've sent you a couple of emails and I don't think you are getting them.

 Posted: Oct 11, 2019 07:20AM
Total posts: 155
Last post: Oct 15, 2019
Member since:Aug 28, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Valvoline VR1 20w-50 'Racing Oil' works good and is easy to find.  It's called racing oil because it has extra additives that work good on older cars like the Mini.  I assume you have a manual transmission, if you have a automatic I think it needs another type of oil.

Whatever you use, pick an oil designed for old tappet engines.  Buy in bulk, Minis have a tendency to leak and burn lots of oil.

 Posted: Oct 11, 2019 07:04AM
Total posts: 742
Last post: Nov 14, 2019
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Sorry royal purple trans fluid won't work, has to be an engine oil, and synthetic engine oil is too slippery for the synchro's it will also leak where conventional oil will not. Zinc is good for the cam and tappets, but you can't just add it, as too much is as bad as not enough. Beyond this there are lots of choices and opinions.

I also rescued a trans in a MK1 Fiesta, and a Subaru WRX with red line oil, worked great.

 Posted: Oct 11, 2019 05:56AM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Oct 24, 2019
Member since:Oct 8, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I was told the 988cc engine in the mini I am buying shares oil with the transmission. I've seen a running video of the car and it has some issues in second gear. I bought a lotus 7 clone and the trans shifted unbelievably stiff. I was told to try replacing the trans oil with Royal Purple and it worked like magic. I am wondering how this might work or not in the mini.