× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 23 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2

 Posted: Jul 22, 2020 02:20PM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
I was just curious.  It doesn't matter now that your car is charging again.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 22, 2020 01:09PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I think I’m seeing yellow with a red tracer and black.

 Posted: Jul 22, 2020 05:29AM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I’ll let you know but it’s extremely hard to detect the color of wires on my wiring harness, everything is old and faded. In the end I splice into the red and yellow wire behind the light to The alternator to wear the brown and yellow wire cast And got power.

 Posted: Jul 21, 2020 01:31PM
 Edited:  Jul 22, 2020 04:46AM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Excellent.  I'm glad you got it sorted out!

Edit:  was it the small brown/yellow wires on terminal "D" ?

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 21, 2020 01:20PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Found the problem. I had two wires in the voltage regulator that were not tied together. Tied them together and everything works correctly or so I hope.

 Posted: Jul 21, 2020 12:28PM
Total posts: 7048
Last post: Jan 29, 2024
Member since:May 23, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Either replace the braided ground strap from the inner wing to the clutch housing or add another one. Preferably one that is a coated copper wire instead of the crappy braided/open wire from the factory. You have a grounding problem.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Jul 21, 2020 08:28AM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Doug I’m not sure if it’s a Saturn or a fiesta alternator if either. It was recommended to me by somebody when I was looking for an alternator this has 105 Amps or whatever to run my lights 

 Posted: Jul 21, 2020 07:19AM
 Edited:  Jul 21, 2020 07:41AM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Scott, your alternator is not a Lucas and I am not sure which one it is.  Have you installed a Saturn or Fiesta alternator?  What make alternator is it?

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 20, 2020 05:51PM
 Edited:  Jul 20, 2020 06:28PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Doug 

I sent some pictures to your email

so is it a short or a broken wire???

 Posted: Jul 20, 2020 04:48AM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
You are correct that when you made the alternator conversion you no longer have a "control box".  All the controls (i.e. the voltage regulator they mentioned) will be on the inside of the alternator. 

The shop may have load tested the battery to determine it was bad.  However, from your earlier posts it sounded like you were able to charge the battery and drive for a couple of days.  That says the battery is "good enough" to use for a while even if it fails load testing.

My point with the jumper wire test is to confirm not just that the bulb is good but also that it is getting power from the ignition switch.  Again, disconnect the alternator plug, jumper from the small brown/yellow wire in the alternator plug to ground, turn the key to the run position, the warning lamp should turn on.  If it doesn't turn on you have a bad bulb OR the warning light circuit is not getting power.  That circuit must get power for the alternator to start making electricity.

There is no point in making any on-car tests if you cannot get the warning light to at least turn on with the jumper.

You said it's an aftermarket alternator conversion.  Please post a couple of pictures of the alternator and the wiring connections you have made to it.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 18, 2020 06:01PM
 Edited:  Jul 18, 2020 06:36PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Doug: I think I got it with the jumper wire. However I’m still not getting any light at the indicator warning light. Changed the bulb but still not the issue.

 Posted: Jul 18, 2020 03:57PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I took it to O’Riles last night. He told me the battery was bad, the alternator was bad, and the voltage regulator was bad.  Didn’t i get rid of the voltage regulator when I put in the alternator?? My problem is this is an aftermarket alternator and I don’t know what goes where my other thought is take it off the car and take it down and have it bench tested somewhere reputable Or follow your instructions above.

 Posted: Jul 18, 2020 05:10AM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
As Ian said, the warning light has to work as I described in my last post for the alternator to start making electricity.

Try this quick test:
With the engine OFF, pull the plug out of the alternator. 
Make a short 16 AWG jumper wire and connect it between a ground point and the small brown/yellow wire in the alternator plug.
Turn the key to the run position.  (You do NOT need to start the engine).
The charge warning lamp should be on.  If it is not... try a new bulb.  If it still doesn't work post back with your findings.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 03:52PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The alternator works because the rotor turns through a magnetic field....  In an alternator this magnetic field is generated by a current passing through the field coils.  This current comes from the ignition via the indicator lamp.  (The lamp doesn't have an earth (per se)).

If the bulb is good, no light means no current means no charging from the alternator.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 03:13PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I believe it’s a charging issue. First the warning light is not on and it’s always run before. Second when I drive the car at the end of the drive twice I’ve been stuck at the end of the driveway once when I was using my lights . Third sometimes I need to pull the choke out in order to get the car to start because there’s not enough umph.  But the battery usually dies in about two days.

 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 03:03PM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Doug:

The warning light is off all the time. Even when I turn the key on it is still off all the time. I think the bulb is good.
 
Multimeter test when the car is not running it measures 12.93 when the car is running it measures 12.56

 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 11:25AM
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
TTF,  You said that the alternator is not charging the battery however you didn't say how you know that.  Is it based on the battery not having enough umph to turn the engine over on the starter, voltage measurements, or warning light operation?  Please explain how you know it is a charging issue and not something like a parasitic draw on the battery while the car is parked.

I'm sure you have probably done some or all of these but confirm the following.

Multimeter Tests:
You should measure more than 12 Volts across the battery with the engine off.
You should measure more than 13.5 Volts and less than 15 Volts across the battery with the engine running.
What have you measured?

Warning Light Operation:
With the key out of the ignition the warning light should be off.
With the key in the run position and engine NOT running, the warning light should be on.
With the engine running the warning light should be off.
How is your car's warning light behaving?

Grounds:
You mentioned grounds.  The alternator only gets its ground through its case and mounting bracket.  If those have been painted you can run a dedicated ground wire to the alternator case or scrape off the paint where parts touch.

As Colin said, you may have disturbed wiring during the steering rack work.  Is there any chance you left the power wire from the alternator to the solenoid disconnected or connected to the wrong terminal?


Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 10:23AM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Truth is the batteries eight years old. I brought it to the shop and they said it’s good. It seems to hold a charge what I charge it with the charger only the car won’t charge it.

 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 10:03AM
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Before you dig in too deeply, check the battery itself. They can die a sudden death and not accept a charge. Put a charger on it and see if it holds a charge.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 17, 2020 09:43AM
 Edited:  Jul 17, 2020 10:20AM
Total posts: 664
Last post: Dec 31, 2021
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Actually I have done that. I pulled out the light and put a test lamp to it and the light lit up. So the bulb is good. I think I’m missing the ground...But that’s all I can figure. Full charge on the battery and the battery only last about two days. 

Found 23 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2