I was just curious.  It doesn't matter now that your car is charging again.

I think I’m seeing yellow with a red tracer and black.

I’ll let you know but it’s extremely hard to detect the color of wires on my wiring harness, everything is old and faded. In the end I splice into the red and yellow wire behind the light to The alternator to wear the brown and yellow wire cast And got power.

Excellent.  I'm glad you got it sorted out!

Edit:  was it the small brown/yellow wires on terminal "D" ?

Found the problem. I had two wires in the voltage regulator that were not tied together. Tied them together and everything works correctly or so I hope.

Either replace the braided ground strap from the inner wing to the clutch housing or add another one. Preferably one that is a coated copper wire instead of the crappy braided/open wire from the factory. You have a grounding problem.

Doug I’m not sure if it’s a Saturn or a fiesta alternator if either. It was recommended to me by somebody when I was looking for an alternator this has 105 Amps or whatever to run my lights 

Scott, your alternator is not a Lucas and I am not sure which one it is.  Have you installed a Saturn or Fiesta alternator?  What make alternator is it?

Doug 

I sent some pictures to your email

so is it a short or a broken wire???

You are correct that when you made the alternator conversion you no longer have a "control box".  All the controls (i.e. the voltage regulator they mentioned) will be on the inside of the alternator. 

The shop may have load tested the battery to determine it was bad.  However, from your earlier posts it sounded like you were able to charge the battery and drive for a couple of days.  That says the battery is "good enough" to use for a while even if it fails load testing.

My point with the jumper wire test is to confirm not just that the bulb is good but also that it is getting power from the ignition switch.  Again, disconnect the alternator plug, jumper from the small brown/yellow wire in the alternator plug to ground, turn the key to the run position, the warning lamp should turn on.  If it doesn't turn on you have a bad bulb OR the warning light circuit is not getting power.  That circuit must get power for the alternator to start making electricity.

There is no point in making any on-car tests if you cannot get the warning light to at least turn on with the jumper.

You said it's an aftermarket alternator conversion.  Please post a couple of pictures of the alternator and the wiring connections you have made to it.

Doug: I think I got it with the jumper wire. However I’m still not getting any light at the indicator warning light. Changed the bulb but still not the issue.

I took it to O’Riles last night. He told me the battery was bad, the alternator was bad, and the voltage regulator was bad.  Didn’t i get rid of the voltage regulator when I put in the alternator?? My problem is this is an aftermarket alternator and I don’t know what goes where my other thought is take it off the car and take it down and have it bench tested somewhere reputable Or follow your instructions above.

As Ian said, the warning light has to work as I described in my last post for the alternator to start making electricity.

Try this quick test:
With the engine OFF, pull the plug out of the alternator. 
Make a short 16 AWG jumper wire and connect it between a ground point and the small brown/yellow wire in the alternator plug.
Turn the key to the run position.  (You do NOT need to start the engine).
The charge warning lamp should be on.  If it is not... try a new bulb.  If it still doesn't work post back with your findings.

The alternator works because the rotor turns through a magnetic field....  In an alternator this magnetic field is generated by a current passing through the field coils.  This current comes from the ignition via the indicator lamp.  (The lamp doesn't have an earth (per se)).

If the bulb is good, no light means no current means no charging from the alternator.

Cheers, Ian

I believe it’s a charging issue. First the warning light is not on and it’s always run before. Second when I drive the car at the end of the drive twice I’ve been stuck at the end of the driveway once when I was using my lights . Third sometimes I need to pull the choke out in order to get the car to start because there’s not enough umph.  But the battery usually dies in about two days.

Doug:

The warning light is off all the time. Even when I turn the key on it is still off all the time. I think the bulb is good.

TTF,  You said that the alternator is not charging the battery however you didn't say how you know that.  Is it based on the battery not having enough umph to turn the engine over on the starter, voltage measurements, or warning light operation?  Please explain how you know it is a charging issue and not something like a parasitic draw on the battery while the car is parked.

I'm sure you have probably done some or all of these but confirm the following.

Multimeter Tests:
You should measure more than 12 Volts across the battery with the engine off.
You should measure more than 13.5 Volts and less than 15 Volts across the battery with the engine running.
What have you measured?

Warning Light Operation:
With the key out of the ignition the warning light should be off.
With the key in the run position and engine NOT running, the warning light should be on.
With the engine running the warning light should be off.
How is your car's warning light behaving?

Grounds:
You mentioned grounds.  The alternator only gets its ground through its case and mounting bracket.  If those have been painted you can run a dedicated ground wire to the alternator case or scrape off the paint where parts touch.

As Colin said, you may have disturbed wiring during the steering rack work.  Is there any chance you left the power wire from the alternator to the solenoid disconnected or connected to the wrong terminal?

Truth is the batteries eight years old. I brought it to the shop and they said it’s good. It seems to hold a charge what I charge it with the charger only the car won’t charge it.

Before you dig in too deeply, check the battery itself. They can die a sudden death and not accept a charge. Put a charger on it and see if it holds a charge.

Actually I have done that. I pulled out the light and put a test lamp to it and the light lit up. So the bulb is good. I think I’m missing the ground...But that’s all I can figure. Full charge on the battery and the battery only last about two days.