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 Posted: Jul 19, 2024 04:55AM
Total posts: 45
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Same here cut out my battery box and JB Welded the new one in worked nicely.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2024 12:31PM
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I did this a few months ago. Cut out the old battery box. Got a new replacement one from Mini Spares. Went in with only a little hammering. the flanges required some adjusting to match the trunk floor. Instead of welding, I just used JB weld and glued it in. 

 

While everything was out.....I blasted the entire trunk, took both tanks out, epoxy primer on everything, new spare tire with the wheel repainted too. Painted the lot. Now I have a concours level boot! I also did the interior of the boot lid, installed the boot lid liner. New board, batter box topper, battery hold down. Looks nice. The boot looks much better than the rest of the car now!

 

 

 

 

 Posted: Jun 7, 2024 09:33AM
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Just started work on my late fathers 1968 Mini Cooper S, major mechanical restoration was done by Automotive Restorations about 5 years ago.  Interior and exterior need alot of love.  The car was parked in a shed for the past winter and became a mouse house.  This week I pulled all the interior panels, the carpets, the seats and the stock heater.  These pieces smell so much of urine I dont think there is any hope for them and I will most likely replace.  The head liner is still in and I am going to attempt to clean it but it may also need to be replaced.  I ordered the custom heater to replace the old one which was rusted out and full of mouse debris.  I also pulled out this insulation type material from wells directly in front of the rear tires, this was soaked with water and urine and smelled awful.  My next steps are to clean and pressure wash the interior, wirebrush the floor and spray rust convertor.

 Posted: Jun 5, 2024 09:35AM
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Member since:May 19, 2024
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New windshield.   The windshield had a crack at eye level from one end to the other.   All good now.

 Posted: Jun 2, 2024 06:15AM
 Edited:  Jun 2, 2024 06:23AM
Total posts: 1566
Last post: Jul 19, 2024
Member since:Mar 10, 1999
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US

postponed working on the engine/trans until the rest of the car was mostly done.  Previous rebuilder did some good work, some not so good.  4-synchro bellhousing on 3-synchro gbox, would have been real lucky if that had worked.  When you do that, generally you have to redrill the dowel holes in the bh to get on the gearbox dowel centers.  This was not done, the bh/trans dowel alignment was never checked, so it ate the idler bearing, tore up the gbox and bh. So now I am sorting through spares to find good ones. 

 

 

While I do that and wait for parts to arrive, I can jump over to my remaining bodywork/chassis/electrical punchlist.

 

For example, the Morris grille had some gross mung attached to the back of every grille bar, and the steel plates that the bars are riveted to had a lot of rust.  So I drilled out all the rivets, cleaned the bars, blasted the plates clean and painted them.

 

 

Its a sliding window MK1, so no dash eyeball vents.  But I do like having extra ventilation,  I might eventually add that to this car. Its not a show car, maybe I will make some stealth vents under the dash, tbd.  Anyway before riveting the grille back together,  I went ahead and cut vent openings in the grille plates and marked out the vent inlet locations. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 3, 2024 06:28AM
Total posts: 1360
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Member since:Dec 9, 2000
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Since we had a major snow storm moving in, I had to jack up the back end of the Mini and move it over in order to make room for my FIAT 500. I also had to move the front end of the Renault Alliance Convertible over to make room for the FIAT as well.

 Posted: Apr 2, 2024 05:00PM
 Edited:  Apr 2, 2024 05:46PM
Total posts: 45
Last post: Jul 19, 2024
Member since:Sep 11, 2013
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Took out the battery, the tray looks like Swiss cheese. Didn’t look so bad, the paint was put on thick and was hangin on but once I started poking at it found it was an illusion, the metal is seriously rusted and it needs the to be replaced. I knew this was coming and had one on hand but seems like the time has come. Came here to see how others have accomplished this project, I’m still looking…. Now where’s my angle grinder….

 Posted: Dec 8, 2023 02:46PM
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I have replaced the harmonic balancer on my r52, accessory belt, and I am currently modifying the air filter housing to take a cone filter for a cold air intake.

 Posted: Nov 13, 2023 06:45AM
Total posts: 1566
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US
lots of little assembly or fab/fix stuff done every day on the 66 S, scratching items off my to-do list but not much worth taking a pic and posting here.  Got boxes from Newton Commercial and started the reupholstery.  Pacing items are the headliner and rear side panels and side storage pocket liners, after that can jump over to making and installing the roll bar.



I considered just buying a roll bar and then convinced myself I could make one.  Got two 24ft sticks of A513 C1020, which is 1 3/4" DOM tubing, 0.120" wall thickness.  Tried a test bend on my modified pipe bender, didnt like the bend quality, borrowed some time on a Hossfeld to make pretty bends.

Test bend: pipe bender flattens the tube, Hossfeld makes smooth bend.






Set in the car and mocked up the downtubes with PVC pipe.




Made foot plates for the downtubes to mount on the inner fenders inside the rear pockets, clamped it all down and used the MIG to tack the downtubes with everything in the car, then pulled the roll bar out and TIGed the whole thing together.  Primed with etching primer and then painted Almond Green.  I used tube socks to keep it from scratching the door frame during installation.



Set it in place, drilled the holes, bolted with underside backup plates.  Pretty happy with the fit. 







Have enough tube left over if I ever decide to do angled door bars, tbd, that is way down the list.  I spent about $300 on tubing, someone who didn't need to practice their tube bending could have done this with a single 24 ft stick, about $150 around here if you know a friendly weld shop to get it for you from their big suppliers.  I had scrap steel plate I cut for floor plates and corner braces, but if you consider the argon, welding rod, steel plate consumables, I would guess about another 50 bucks in materials. 

 Posted: Oct 1, 2023 08:16AM
Total posts: 1360
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I had the oil changed and chassis lubed on my 1996 Mini Cooper this week. I would have done the job myself, but I much dislike working with the cannister type filter. It would be nice if someone could design and manufacture a spin on oil filter adaptor for the automatic transmission classic Minis. Mark

 Posted: Sep 29, 2023 02:57PM
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Replaced the rubber SportPac flares with ABS ones. Put some reinforcing on the front quarter panels as well and cleaned up the jagged arches that the previous owner left. No more shredded tires! Also re-sprayed the license plate lamp shroud on the boot. And cut myself up trying to get the gas tank in place after replacing the rear flare on that side of the car.

 Posted: Aug 29, 2023 04:39AM
Total posts: 1566
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Member since:Mar 10, 1999
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerOtto
Prepping for replacement parts install : Purchased a shaker can of GN37 Almond Green for some touchup. Just purchased 2 NOS wheel boxes. This week a friend should be delivering 2 used (but good) 5-bolt bumpers and hopefully a grille and mustache. Drilled holes in bumper overriders to accept corner bars (no problem drilling through the chrome!) Purchased and installed NOS front cornerbars). On the shelf is a replacement turn signal stalk. Mine was worn and no longer accepted the green lens.
hey Roger, I cant seem to stop being a Mini parts hoarder, apparently through the years I acquired a number of MK1 indicators needing repair, and one which was not MK1, must have been from a junkyard scrounging run,  maybe an ADO16?.  When I finally needed one, I decided to try fixing as many of these broken ones as I could.  To replace the long-gone bulb sockets tips, I bought a foot long piece of nylon rod from McMaster and turned "new" plastic tips on my lathe, but I dont see why a creative person couldn't do it on a drill press.  I was lucky that I had one arm with a still-usable plastic tip that I could copy, even so I still messed up the first 3 tries, finally figured out a workable sequence of steps. Is the chrome still all pitted and old-looking, yes.  Which is OK with me, I dont intend to win any prizes, and yeah I am a cheapskate. So I have one original, which I will set aside, and 3 repaired, to pick one for use on the car..  If I wanted a new arm I could have got a new 2A6215 from one of the usual vendors.

 Posted: Aug 26, 2023 04:56AM
Total posts: 256
Last post: Aug 26, 2023
Member since:Nov 26, 2017
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My car is a companion of yours - 1966 Austin Cooper S - Almond Green,OEW - LHD / WET

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Aug 26, 2023 04:15AM
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US
OK, so not this week, these photos from earlier this month.  The final flip and dismount.  This is the 66 Morris S I bought from Smurf many years ago, had Hugh drag it across country to me in Florida.  Another of my long-delayed projects that had to wait for me to retire and find time for it.




final flip

 Posted: Aug 26, 2023 03:51AM
Total posts: 256
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Prepping for replacement parts install : Purchased a shaker can of GN37 Almond Green for some touchup. Just purchased 2 NOS wheel boxes. This week a friend should be delivering 2 used (but good) 5-bolt bumpers and hopefully a grille and mustache. Drilled holes in bumper overriders to accept corner bars (no problem drilling through the chrome!) Purchased and installed NOS front cornerbars). On the shelf is a replacement turn signal stalk. Mine was worn and no longer accepted the green lens.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Aug 26, 2023 03:37AM
 Edited:  Aug 29, 2023 04:40AM
Total posts: 1566
Last post: Jul 19, 2024
Member since:Mar 10, 1999
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US
fixed some MK1 turn signal indicators, disassembled and derusted fresh air heater, started removing verdigris from heater matrix










 Posted: Jul 22, 2023 12:35PM
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Front end alignment. I used a laser level attached to wheel (via magnets) and measured distance from body under door/chrome trim l(front and rear).

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Jun 19, 2023 03:36PM
 Edited:  Jun 19, 2023 03:51PM
Total posts: 1566
Last post: Jul 19, 2024
Member since:Mar 10, 1999
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making sway bars.  Not a fan of the front bars that attach to the tie rods, and I am a cheapskate, so just bought the tools ( I like having tools) and supplies to make my own sway bars.  Saved a few bucks, learned a few things, had some beer money left over.

 Posted: May 16, 2023 10:41AM
Total posts: 256
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I recently found the seal/gasket that fits on the fuel tank drain plug. Unfortunately the tank was already in. As luck would have it I just drained the fuel tank to repair/replace my fuel pump. So ... it was now or never!

removed the 5” drain tube (on bleed screw) which extends through the boot floor. loosened the tank strap lifted the tank slightly Reinserted the seal/gasket Reinstalled the drain tube (on bleed screw)

I did make a tool to help remove the drain tube. I duct tapped a 7/16” socket to a tube. In AU this is referred to as a pipe wrench. Could not find any here in the states.

Hopefully, the drain tube is on correctly! I will find out shortly!

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: May 16, 2023 08:42AM
 Edited:  May 16, 2023 08:43AM
Total posts: 3
Last post: Dec 6, 2023
Member since:May 16, 2023
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Image Gallery
Just finishing updates, to all electrical and audio and all new dashboard.

Found 62 Messages

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