lots of little assembly or fab/fix stuff done every day on the 66 S, scratching items off my to-do list but not much worth taking a pic and posting here.  Got boxes from Newton Commercial and started the reupholstery.  Pacing items are the headliner and rear side panels and side storage pocket liners, after that can jump over to making and installing the roll bar.



I considered just buying a roll bar and then convinced myself I could make one.  Got two 24ft sticks of A513 C1020, which is 1 3/4" DOM tubing, 0.120" wall thickness.  Tried a test bend on my modified pipe bender, didnt like the bend quality, borrowed some time on a Hossfeld to make pretty bends.

Test bend: pipe bender flattens the tube, Hossfeld makes smooth bend.






Set in the car and mocked up the downtubes with PVC pipe.




Made foot plates for the downtubes to mount on the inner fenders inside the rear pockets, clamped it all down and used the MIG to tack the downtubes with everything in the car, then pulled the roll bar out and TIGed the whole thing together.  Primed with etching primer and then painted Almond Green.  I used tube socks to keep it from scratching the door frame during installation.



Set it in place, drilled the holes, bolted with underside backup plates.  Pretty happy with the fit. 







Have enough tube left over if I ever decide to do angled door bars, tbd, that is way down the list.  I spent about $300 on tubing, someone who didn't need to practice their tube bending could have done this with a single 24 ft stick, about $150 around here if you know a friendly weld shop to get it for you from their big suppliers.  I had scrap steel plate I cut for floor plates and corner braces, but if you consider the argon, welding rod, steel plate consumables, I would guess about another 50 bucks in materials. 

I had the oil changed and chassis lubed on my 1996 Mini Cooper this week. I would have done the job myself, but I much dislike working with the cannister type filter. It would be nice if someone could design and manufacture a spin on oil filter adaptor for the automatic transmission classic Minis. Mark

Replaced the rubber SportPac flares with ABS ones. Put some reinforcing on the front quarter panels as well and cleaned up the jagged arches that the previous owner left. No more shredded tires! Also re-sprayed the license plate lamp shroud on the boot. And cut myself up trying to get the gas tank in place after replacing the rear flare on that side of the car.

hey Roger, I cant seem to stop being a Mini parts hoarder, apparently through the years I acquired a number of MK1 indicators needing repair, and one which was not MK1, must have been from a junkyard scrounging run,  maybe an ADO16?.  When I finally needed one, I decided to try fixing as many of these broken ones as I could.  To replace the long-gone bulb sockets tips, I bought a foot long piece of nylon rod from McMaster and turned "new" plastic tips on my lathe, but I dont see why a creative person couldn't do it on a drill press.  I was lucky that I had one arm with a still-usable plastic tip that I could copy, even so I still messed up the first 3 tries, finally figured out a workable sequence of steps. Is the chrome still all pitted and old-looking, yes.  Which is OK with me, I dont intend to win any prizes, and yeah I am a cheapskate. So I have one original, which I will set aside, and 3 repaired, to pick one for use on the car..  If I wanted a new arm I could have got a new 2A6215 from one of the usual vendors.

My car is a companion of yours - 1966 Austin Cooper S - Almond Green,OEW - LHD / WET

OK, so not this week, these photos from earlier this month.  The final flip and dismount.  This is the 66 Morris S I bought from Smurf many years ago, had Hugh drag it across country to me in Florida.  Another of my long-delayed projects that had to wait for me to retire and find time for it.

Prepping for replacement parts install : Purchased a shaker can of GN37 Almond Green for some touchup. Just purchased 2 NOS wheel boxes. This week a friend should be delivering 2 used (but good) 5-bolt bumpers and hopefully a grille and mustache. Drilled holes in bumper overriders to accept corner bars (no problem drilling through the chrome!) Purchased and installed NOS front cornerbars). On the shelf is a replacement turn signal stalk. Mine was worn and no longer accepted the green lens.

fixed some MK1 turn signal indicators, disassembled and derusted fresh air heater, started removing verdigris from heater matrix

Front end alignment. I used a laser level attached to wheel (via magnets) and measured distance from body under door/chrome trim l(front and rear).

making sway bars.  Not a fan of the front bars that attach to the tie rods, and I am a cheapskate, so just bought the tools ( I like having tools) and supplies to make my own sway bars.  Saved a few bucks, learned a few things, had some beer money left over.

I recently found the seal/gasket that fits on the fuel tank drain plug. Unfortunately the tank was already in. As luck would have it I just drained the fuel tank to repair/replace my fuel pump. So ... it was now or never!

removed the 5” drain tube (on bleed screw) which extends through the boot floor. loosened the tank strap lifted the tank slightly Reinserted the seal/gasket Reinstalled the drain tube (on bleed screw)

I did make a tool to help remove the drain tube. I duct tapped a 7/16” socket to a tube. In AU this is referred to as a pipe wrench. Could not find any here in the states.

Hopefully, the drain tube is on correctly! I will find out shortly!

Just finishing updates, to all electrical and audio and all new dashboard.

Honestly my goal is to install an automatic transmission on my mini and make it reliable so i can drive cross country , not just around town, i'm tired of driving around town and car shows and being cute. i want to make my mini a real car where i can go distance without overheating....

I'm in the process of painting my mini Nardo Gray, using rattle can. wish me luck!

Replaced alternator

Installed interior light (white switch) on my 1966"S". Also put shiny new baby moon hub caps on. Time to take it out for a drive!

Cleaned the dust off my car then went for a 2 hour drive up and over some of the wine country here in western Oregon.  Temp was 55 so spring is finally coming.

Bought some Hella H4 headlights then installed LED bulbs and then decided for LED's all around, except in my non-stock, but cool, repeater lights. I had to buy an LED compatible flasher. Interestingly, my existing flasher would operate the rear LED signal lights but not both the front and rear. The right front signal/running light socket was badly rusted but fortunately I had a spare in my parts inventory.

After having hard starts, intermittent non-starting and weird electrical gremlins for a long time on Kreacher, my VTEC Elf, I dug into the issue. Checked and rechecked all the grounds, and replaced the old nasty engine ground with a nice new mil-spec braided ground strap. Nope. Starter seemed iffy even after pulling it and bench testing it, so I put a new reconditioned one in. Still same issues. I pulled the original-ish ignition switch (it's one with the aux position) and it basically fell apart in my hands and had very worn out contacts. So I put a brand new one in, using my old key tumbler. Still the same problems. I also added a push-button start switch into the empty choke hole in my switch panel just for fun. Final test was to jump the battery directly to the starter. Fired right up! So pulled all the battery cables out and found two places where the (possibly original to the car) long positive cable was pinched between the body and the subframes. New cables made and installed and viola, no more starting issues! That was tough, but I won in the end. Kreacher should be good to go now. I recommend Custom Battery Cables in Mesa, AZ if you need any custom length cables professionally made. Nice quality stuff. 

Painting wheels.  I had the wrong hubcaps on which scrapped lots of paint off.
if they do not turn out OK I will then send to have power coated.