Engine Hardware Kit
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Hello Xavier, thank you for the constant work in this site
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Xavier, Sales/tech - 800-46-2642
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Thank you for the heads up Dan - We've had hundreds of spammers come up in the past week. ..
....
if you see a bot, feel free to send me a message, email, or call and I'll take care of it
You need to fill in your profile ?? so we can contact you.
To be honest, I have no idea who you are behind your screen name or where you are. I'm guessing deep in the inner sanctum of MiniMania.
Cheers!
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Thank you for the heads up Dan - We've had hundreds of spammers come up in the past week. consider:
these are BOTS (computer programs) not people. They are very sophisticated and have even made their way through email verification. They post copy and past words from other forums to sound legit and phish you with scam links.
I am working to get these killed as quickly as I can, but..
NEVER click on a link that you don't know where it goes (on most browsers you can hover over the link and see in the lower left corner a preview of where it goes)
don't attempt to reply or contact the bot (it's not there anyway)
if you see a bot, feel free to send me a message, email, or call and I'll take care of it
Xavier, Sales/tech - 800-46-2642
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When they do, it leaves the warning up - the poster of the warning cannot delete his/her post. The warning poster could edit the warning, but that would just leave null postings.
Often these spammers hit more than one thread, so the warning may continue to serve.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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It's also an amusing legacy to leave "XXXX IS A SPAMMER" on a thread long after the offending post has been deleted.
Sort of immortalises them.
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When I replied, his message had no link, so I concluded it was just a dumb/innocent/misplaced question by someone who thinks an engine can be built in kit form.
Later in the day, he added the dubious link.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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This is not a motorcycle forum.
This is not a LEGO forum.
If you really wanted to build an engine from scratch it might cost you 5 to 10 times the cost of a fully built engine. Most automotive engines cost a lot more to fully rebuild than to replace.
You would need special tools. You would need a machine shop to properly construct some parts of the engine for a proper fit.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Special stuff like headstuds/nuts, big end fasteners and clutch bits are advertised by the usual suspects.
Pretty much everything else is either 7/16, 1/2 or 9/16th UNC or UNF. Its pretty obvious from the bits you're trying to join up which one you need.
You should choose quality items from a local engineering shop rather than a cheap blister pack from the local Home Depot.
Cheers, Ian
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The parts diagrams start here:
https://www.minimania.com/search_inventory.cfm
NOTE: the examples I show may not be for your specific engine.
Eventually you can get to diagrams such as this:
https://www.minimania.com/catPage/2-17/2/17/0/Pre-A-Plus-1275-with-12H-Engine-Number-Except-Cooper-S
and this
https://www.minimania.com/catPage/2-27/2/27/0/Cylinder-Head-Cooper-S-970CC-1071CC--1275CC
In each parts diagram, there is a table listing all the parts shown, their part numbers, a description and of course the quantity used/needed.
Perhaps some of the other forum members who have done complete engine rebuilds can offer advice on your specific engine, - give us the serial number - which charts to use and maybe have a nut-bolt-stud buying list.
Good luck!
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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