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 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 01:04PM
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CA
Good to know you solved it.
From experience, it seems to me Minis crave attention and "create" simple but hard to find problems just to keep you close.

Happy motoring!

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 12:37PM
 Edited:  Feb 13, 2022 02:10PM
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You're not alone in the bone head camp. These SPI's are great. Just keep an eye on those  right angle connectors. They are crap. A simple short length of rubber hose will give you miles of trouble free driving.

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 11:11AM
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Ok. So I spent a little time going back through things again. Checked once again that I indeed had spark then went through what could affect just cylinders 3+4. Pulled the air cleaner assembly and there it was, staring right at me.  When installing the O2 sensor I removed the fitting on the intake for the brake booster and when I reinstalled it by hand I told myself not to forget to come to it and tighten it. Of course stupid Steve forgot to do that. Unreal! But certainly happy to tighten it, reinstall the air cleaner and hood and take it for a rip. It runs like a champ again.  Wish I could have reported back saying I was a new found expert and had the answers but I'm not afraid to admit when I've been a bonehead either. Thanks for your input and attempts to help me with my little adventure. It is very much appreciated!

Steven

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 09:20AM
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Stepper motor failure?

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 08:14AM
 Edited:  Feb 13, 2022 08:16AM
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I'm sorry but I'm confused. You are getting spark at the plugs, but it's not exploding in the cylinder? The CPU is doing its job by giving you spark.

I thought you said the plugs were wet. Are you saying that the throttle body is not spraying gas when it's at the cylinder 4 time?

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 06:57AM
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Unfortunately, I do not have access to another CPU to try. I dont know of anyone in my area with a similar car. I will check the brown wire connect that you mention. It's puzzling to me how I can have spark at the plug while grounded outside the cylinder but no noticeable firing when installed. I thought that it is indeed likely sparking in when installed but the cylinder in not getting fuel like can happen with modern injected cars but how could this be possible on a throttle body setup?

 Posted: Feb 13, 2022 05:46AM
 Edited:  Feb 13, 2022 06:05AM
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Can you borrow a  good CPU? This way you can eliminate that part. I've heard that the flywheel sensor  or the pickup can give problems, but to be honest I've never experienced that problem yet. My injected mini is my daily driver, so I'm only giving you problems and solutions that I've encountered.The fuel pump wire is very sensitive. One other wire that I had a problem with was the thick white / thin red wire that is part of the main harness comes up near the Black box. For some unexplained reason that failed. Rather than cutting up the harness, I did a neat jumper wire install, but I don't think that is your problem.

 Posted: Feb 11, 2022 11:59AM
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Ok. So when digging in again I found that one of the vacuum elbows on the back of the throttle body that I just replaced was split ?? so I relaced it again with another new one. The car idles now but now it is only firing on cylinders three and four. I replaced the plugs with two new ones figuring they were fouled from running rich due to the vacuum issue but they are still dead. Plugs are firing when I ground them outside of the cylinder but when installed and with the car running I can pull those wires off the plugs with no change to the idle. Checked cap and rotor and put my old set of ignition wires back on with no change. Put old distributor cap back on just in case as I thought that maybe contact was weak causing a weak spark, no change.  Valvetrain is fine.  Pulled valve cover to be sure. I'm a bit puzzled and frustrated. 

Any thoughts are appreciated. 
Steven

 Posted: Feb 10, 2022 03:31PM
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With the inline fuses, I do know that there is a very sensitive thin brown wire going to a little thicker brown wire which powers the fuel pump. I'm not exactly sure where it goes in the harness but I had a lousy connection (of my own doing) and the mini would stall and stumble.

 Posted: Feb 9, 2022 07:04PM
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I will check the temp sensor. Do you think it could be fuel pump related if the car goes down the road rather well?  The car will idle a bit but not a normal idle then it just dies. Restarts fine. At idle it seems rich. 

 Posted: Feb 9, 2022 06:23PM
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Don't touch the throttle body unless you have the Sykes scanner.  You need that tool to change idle speed.

Don't feel bad about not solving the idle. The vacuum connections needed addressing.

Now for the electrical. Have you changed the fuse holders? The fuse that operates the fuel pump gets hot and warms the cheap plastic holder. Because it's under spring tension, it stretches. When it cools it loses contact. A common practice is to get an eight gang fuse block; crimp spade on the wires, Make sure the crimps are good and tight.

You have the water temp sensor on the right side of the intake manifold. Pop the connector off, get a multimeter, take the leads and see if you have continuity, no need to take off the manifold.

The other thing that can give you trouble is the black box holding 4 relays. This sits above the brake booster. One of the 4 sends a signal to the fuel pump.

 Posted: Feb 9, 2022 03:12PM
 Edited:  Feb 9, 2022 03:52PM
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Sorry for the delay in updating. Still struggling with the same issue. I did find degraded vacuum elbows. I replaced the following ones.  2 on rear of throttle body, 2 at small canister that is mounted to firewall, 1 at the Bosch brain box. The two on the underside of the air cleaner are made from a different material and are in perfect condition. I have also relaxed the following. Plugs, cap and rotor, wires, fuel filter and no change. Just replaced the O2 sensor and still no improvement????. I have never touched any settings on the throttle body. Only cleaned once recently with a carb cleaner. Any input or suggestions regarding next steps would be greatly appreciated. 


I will will try tightening the intake manifold bolts tomorrow.  

Thanks
Steven

 Posted: Feb 2, 2022 08:07PM
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It's more than likely the vacuum lines as already suggested. Just finished repairing a customers car with the same issue.

It is also a good idea to check that the manifold nuts are tight. SPI/MPI cars use a loose flanged nut setup. I've had a few cars in where these have worked loose causing air leaks.

Never had to change an O2 sensor but have had the odd faulty throttle position sensor and stepper motor. Saying that most stepper motor issues turned out to be where people had fiddled with the adjuster without using a diagnostic tool to set the idle speed.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2022 07:17PM
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Hello, have you found a solution for this? I also have a 92 that does not idle well. Recently, it started stalling at traffic lights and power cuts out here and there while driving.. I’m told the vacuum lines were recently replaced and the fuel tank has been cleaned.

 Posted: Jan 18, 2022 05:15PM
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Have you replaced the 7 vacuum elbows connectors? Have you replaced the O2 sensor?

 Posted: Jan 18, 2022 02:19PM
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Recently my car has been running poorly in regards to starting and idling. I now have to apply the accelerator to get it started and once it warms up a bit it won't idle without stalling. When bringing up the RPGs a bit and then holding a speed it will "search" and not maintain a steady speed. At first I thought it was bad fuel so I drained the tank, added fresh fuel and injection cleaner but after 1/2 tank of fuel still no better. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor all look good but I am replacing them as soon as the parts arrive along with a new fuel and air filter. I would appreciate any direction regarding the possible cause

Thank you!
Steven