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 Posted: May 8, 2022 08:48AM
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Update:  It turns out the clutch was oil soaked, but with 'baked-on' oil.  It was quite sticky.  You'd expect the failed oil seal to cause a slipping clutch.  Instead this one got stuck and would not dis-engage. 

So new oil seal, new clutch, everything degreased.  Prior I had replaced the clutch arm, clevis pins, push piston (or whatever you call what pushes the throw-out beariing into the spring plate) oh new throw-out brg, and slave cylinder.  The only thing I kept is the clutch master cylinder.  She shifts like new.  She outta! 

BTW, in the process, I made my own version of the oil seal removal tool 18G 1068 out of two 48mm muffler clamps (cut off one flange and grind short the other so it fits nicely in the groove behind the teeth for the clutch disk.  Hold together with a couple of bolts and it grabs the primary gear quite soundly.  Attached a couple of eye-bolts and run them through a bar (with holes drilled in bar) that rests on the end of the crankshaft.  Tighten the two nuts on the eye-bolts and viola! the oil seal comes out easily as this contraction removes the primary gear. 

Henry
'69 red Morris Mini Traveller

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 10:59PM
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GB
The clutch plate could be on the wrong way round.

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 07:25PM
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Fully bled.  Again, the arm moves well - full 'range of motion'. 

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 07:54AM
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The new clutch arm moves beautifully.  I can feel resistance at the pedal with at least an inch of pedal movement to go. The arm is moving as it should.  Adjustments as per the workshop manual.  Very odd. 

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 07:12AM
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CA
New slave cylinder not fully bled?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 09:24PM
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Does the clutch arm move? The end should move +- 1/2". Maybe its time to change the master cylinder.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 07:11PM
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Actually, the wife drives it every chance she can.  The clutch/shifting issue slowly got worse and worse.  Very odd.  All I can think is some kind of leak and the clutch starting sticking. 
I know what you mean.  Ages ago, my friend's VW bug had a clutch that stuck after each rain.  Everytime it released it was with a bang!  Unfortunately, this clutch issue doesn't release. 
I'm afraid I'll have to tear it down again - further this time.  The way I work, it'll be a while.  But I'll post my findings here.

Thanks

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 06:26PM
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US
Yes the clutch can become stuck. Has it been parked for a long time? 

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 04:11PM
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Thanks Dan, but that was actually the first thing I did.  Also the last thing after replacing all of the linkage parts. 

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 12:59PM
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CA
Check you have the correct setting on the lever adjustment bolt.
Check the throw-out stop nuts - they need lots of clearance between them and clutch cover.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 24, 2022 12:23PM
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Initially I thought the clutch linkage was becoming worn.  Grinding gears even with clutch mashed to the floor.  So I just finished replacing everything from the throw-out bearing, bearing holder, new clutch arm, clevis pins and even a slave cylinder.  Everything moves great.  I can feel resistance - touching the pressure plate with another inch of clutch pedal movement to go.  Nope!  It's like I never depressed the clutch pedal.  It's like the clutch disc is not releasing from the flywheel.  Could the clutch be contaminated and has become STUCK to the flywheel?  Is that possible?  Has anyone experienced this? 

MkII Morris Mini Traveller with an 80's engine and fully synchro trans, pre-Verto. 
Appreciate any wisdom.
Henry
San Diego, CA