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 Posted: May 9, 2022 11:04PM
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Only works if you have the problem I noted above.

The slave piston floats in the cylinder and it doesn’t matter where it is as long as it doesn’t bottom out at either end....

But if you do need it, its probably a neater solution than bending the clutch arm. Being a cheapskate I just had a small extension welded on the standard rod

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 8, 2022 08:39PM
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US
If you've checked for wear in all the usual places and adjusted everything per spec and still have problems, consider trying an adjustable slave cylinder pushrod [link]. I've been using one for several years and it's allowed me to fine tune the feel and travel of my clutch peddle to perfection. Just be careful not to over/under adjust the throw to compensate for other clutch related issues.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: May 8, 2022 09:32AM
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Got it adjusted.  Feels good now.

 Posted: Apr 28, 2022 12:06AM
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All good sensible advice above , my contribution is to throw away the big nuts on the arm plunger they are not neede , I have not run them for over 20 years . 

 Posted: Apr 27, 2022 08:26AM
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I also used to drive with no return spring and did get some improvement in the pedal action, but the face of the throwout bearing ground a ring groove in the hardened steel plate attached to the diaphragm spring. I would not recommend that to anyone.

Like others have said, any wear on the various parts of the clutch system will disimprove (Like that word? I just made it up!) pedal action. I recently experienced magic with the clutch in my Mini. I fit a new disc and the clutch continued to release very close to the floor. I drove that way for months and decided to try adjusting the stop bolt on the housing. There was about .100 inch gap! adjusted that to about .010, et voila, the system works fine now with plenty of pedal movement to go after the clutch disengages! Woo Hoo!

'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 27, 2022 01:05AM
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GB

Check everything for wear - it takes a surprisingly small amount of wear across all the surfaces to build up and cause this issue.

Ignore the HBOL settings for the clutch arm.  The .020" gap or whatever they say is bollocks. 

Throw away the return spring. There are those (TurboDave was one) who advocate having a lighter spring pulling the arm the other way to introduce preload.

Adjust the arm so that the release bearing is juuuust touching the thrust plate.  I've run like this since forever with no bearing failures or premature wear.   

As Ian says, check that you're not running out of slave cylinder travel if the above doesn't work.  

If you've hit the end stop, it's either time to replace everything or heat & bend the arm inwards a bit.

 Posted: Apr 26, 2022 05:30PM
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Pull the boot clear of the end of the slave, have attractive assistant fully depress clutch pedal. Look into the slave cylinder and see how far the slave piston is clear of the circlip.

If there is clearance then this is not your issue.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Apr 26, 2022 09:41AM
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Thanks Dan

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 01:14PM
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CA
On a non-verto clutch, you adjust the stop bolt that holds the lever away from the clutch cover. While doing so, hold the clutch lever away from the cover to take up slack. Be sure to leave a little play. See your manual for the clearance.
If that doesn't work, there are probably one or more worn parts allowing too much play.
  • 1. the clutch lever should not be bent at all
  • 2, The ball on the bottom end of the lever should be round and not worn.
  • 3. The clutch release plunger should not be worn where the lever ball fits into it.
Good thing you don't have the opposite problem of the clutch release point being very high on the pedal travel - that would suggest your clutch plate is worn. (Been there!)
  •  
  • -

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 25, 2022 09:44AM
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My clutch needs to go all the way to the floor to disengage.  Where do I adjust it up a little?