A stretched hub around a bearing race can allow the race to slop around.

Installing a race in the hub is supposed to be a gentle press fit.
Bearing retaining compound can "glue" it in place, or replace the hub.

If wheel bearings wear out excessively, the hub casting can also get worn beyond tolerance. I learned that the hard way.
When changing ball joints, it is probably a good idea to change tie rod ends at the same time. Then get the alignment done.

I had movement when I wobbled my wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and also at 6 and 12 o'clock. I installed new wheel bearings and new ball joints—to be on the safe side, but the wobble remained.

A forum member said he had the same symptoms and insisted replacing the entire hub solved his problem. I inspected and measured the hub and compared it to the other side and didn't notice any difference. I ended up replacing the hub and the problem was resolved. Still don't know how or why a new hub fixed the problem, but it did. 

There's a way to tell the difference. Apply the brakes then reef on the wheel back and forth at 12 and 6. If it wobbles, its a ball joint. If no wobbling then its a bearing. AutoX tech inspectors will know what I mean.

Excellent info, guys! I suspect I'm dealing with a bad balljoint and not a bearing. Thx much!

I just replaced a wheel bearing in a 93 SPI ( Japan Car )

Front wheel bearing was verifyably loose . could not tighten further. tried a new CV joint (also did not cure)

I replaced the wheel bearing. Using a normal wheel bearing set.

on the backside of the hub . under the seal WAS a spacer ring.. (same diameter of the wheel bearing outer race) but just a spring loaded spacer ring. I beleive this keeps the CV Axle seal from pressing in TOO far into the hub, I do not think that is totally necessary.

As noted. the other spring clip is the Axle - into the CV Joint ( hidden under the boot) If you're doing a wheel bearing, no need to dissassemble the axle.

A set of pictures may help identify your need.

May also need to re assess the looseness ( BALLJOINTS) are common for excess play in front wheels,.

That clip is on the end of shaft that slips into the CV joint. A bad wheel bearing usually howls, sounds like  metal grinding or making a noise depending on its state of disrepair. You can inspect the race for discoloring and the wheel bearing surface to see if any flaking or pitting. The clicking noise on turning is CV ball bearing wear. 

That clip securely holds the shaft to the CV joint together. that is why you have to smack the CV joint to release the two. There is no other set up that I'm aware of. It is a necessary part. Should be there on the end of the shaft, after the splines. Look for it.

Long story short, I detected excess play in my RF wheel. Diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing by my mechanic. Ordered wheel hub assembly from MM. Mechanic attempts to install but can't because no retaining clip included in the kit. There was no retaining clip on the wheel bearing that was on the car. Further research shows that this clip is no longer available. Are there other types of wheel bearing kits that don't require this clip? The vehicle is an '87 Japanese spec 1275 w front disc brakes. Additionally, the mechanic said that when he removed the original wheel bearing, it didn't look very worn at all. I did not hear any speed dependent noise on turning the steering wheel, nor did I feel any vibrations being transmitted through the steering column.

Thanks in advance for any help/assistance/advice!