× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items
Your Order / Return May Be Delayed Due To Shipping Irregularities.   Read More
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Jul 22, 2022 06:52PM
Total posts: 6885
Last post: Jul 22, 2022
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
if it's not on pot joints could be a U joint hitting the exhaust downpipe.

 Posted: Jul 21, 2022 03:59AM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Jul 21, 2022
Member since:Jul 19, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
thanks for the input Dan, Willie_B, and Rosebud.  I'll be going through her engine compartment this weekend to hopefully find the problem.  

 Posted: Jul 21, 2022 03:17AM
Total posts: 9139
Last post: Aug 15, 2022
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
I think it could be an upper engine steady. Later Minis (A+ engines?) have a lower stock steady to the transmission which does stiffen things. If the main motor mounts are good and you have a HIF44 installed, it would be very close to the firewall and the carb would hit the firewall or maybe even the brake and clutch lines (left hand drive) the carb. The attached picture shows a HIF44 with alloy intake on a 1275 A+.

When checking the upper engine steady, Disassemble it and inspect carefully the firewall mounts. On my car, the lower mount was not properly welded in the factory to the cross-member, had pulled loose sometime inn its history and had been brazed back on, only to come loose again. (Brazing doesn't stick to paint, apparently.)

I discovered this when the engine steady bolt fatigued a hole in the upper mounting plate and the engine steady became partially useless. (I discovered this when trying to solve a creaking/cracking noise in the right hand footwell - occurring during acceleration/decelleration. The engine was flexing the subframe resulting in a crack being torn in the footwell floorboard where the sub-frame bolts on.

So, in the photo you can see the aluminum checker plate I made to replace the upper support and the original lower support with the clutch line still connected to it - I did not want to have to deal with clutch hydraulics at the time. The lower bracket was replaced with s short piece of steel angle bolted through the cross-member. (That was fun bolting up alone!)

I have heard of others finding the lower bracket has come loose.

At the engine end of the steady, check the bolts and brackets are in good condition, as well as both rubber bushings at each end.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 21, 2022 03:03AM
Total posts: 2449
Last post: Aug 12, 2022
Member since:Dec 1, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Engine steady bushing bad or gone, steering rack end bushing bad, something loose and moving in the boot or inside the car?

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Jul 20, 2022 10:52PM
Total posts: 1348
Last post: Jul 20, 2022
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Seems to me that if it were a motor mount/engine steady issue, you would "feel" the clunk as well, particularly in the steering wheel.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jul 20, 2022 06:19PM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Jul 21, 2022
Member since:Jul 19, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hard on the gas and quick shifting this morning while getting up to speed on the highway....now I get a "thunking" sound when hitting the gas.  Motor mount broken or bushing maybe?  1275 w/4 speed.