Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Nov 7, 2022 05:46AM | 6464s | |
Oct 29, 2022 12:42PM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Oct 29, 2022 12:43PM |
Oct 29, 2022 12:16PM | MartinGreenbank | |
Oct 29, 2022 11:36AM | MartinGreenbank | |
Oct 29, 2022 06:10AM | PhatHeadDonnie | |
Oct 29, 2022 05:25AM | 6464s | |
Oct 29, 2022 04:31AM | Dan Moffet | |
Oct 29, 2022 04:06AM | 6464s | Edited: Oct 29, 2022 04:12AM |
Total posts: 606
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I was able to buy the needed parts from someone in England. Disappointing I know but I went with the 65D Distributor with new cap and rotor for 70 pounds.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6464s
Dan, Thanks for your input for the 123. But WOW $800.
https://123ignitionusa.com/mini/
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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OK, it looks like it may have been a Hitachi D4R83 or D4R85 from a Nissan N12 Pulsar (or Honda Civic). Swap out the drive dog with a Mini drive dog, 20 minutes work. I'll look for more info.
//datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=E15_Electronic_Distributor_Swap
M.
//datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=E15_Electronic_Distributor_Swap
M.
"Nature Bats Last"
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Years ago (2008 maybe) there was a post on this forum that suggested taking an electronic dizzy off a 4-cylinder Japanese four cylinder engine that dropped right into the A series dizzy slot with only a small modification.
I did three of my Minis with this dizzy and they worked wonderfully.
I will go back through my notes to see what vehicle they came off.
I remember that I bought all three for about $60 from a scrappie in Boise.
M.
I did three of my Minis with this dizzy and they worked wonderfully.
I will go back through my notes to see what vehicle they came off.
I remember that I bought all three for about $60 from a scrappie in Boise.
M.
"Nature Bats Last"
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Jimmy Ding aka 6464s.. I have quit using electronic dissys.. nothing but trouble and ones I have used.. might last couple weeks at best.. I have gone back to using dissys with points.. only. I will email you my supplier offline.. cheers PHD..
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Dan, Thanks for your input for the 123. But WOW $800.
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Jim,
I can't help with parts, but I strongly recommend the 123 electronic ignition system. It is made in both A- and A+ versions, with or without vacuum advance. I bought one many years ago - mine had 16 built-in advance curves and vacuum advance. Newer one are apparently fully progarmmable. They are very easy to install, look like a distributor and have no external parts except for the coil, of course. To set timing, you position the engine at TDC for No. 1 then turn the 123 until a LED lights up, then clamp it down. On mine, the only tricky part was choosing the right curve to suit my 1275 high compression engine. But as Marcel Chichak (who developed the Mini version) says, your engine will tell you which curve it likes best. I have not touched mine since I got it set. One nice feature is that it provides zero advance until the engine is turning at 500 rpm, then the curve gets turned on. This makes it very easy for the engine to get started, each and every time. On my car with the engine warmed up, it usually only takes a touch of the starter - not even a full revolution - for the engine to start.
I can't help with parts, but I strongly recommend the 123 electronic ignition system. It is made in both A- and A+ versions, with or without vacuum advance. I bought one many years ago - mine had 16 built-in advance curves and vacuum advance. Newer one are apparently fully progarmmable. They are very easy to install, look like a distributor and have no external parts except for the coil, of course. To set timing, you position the engine at TDC for No. 1 then turn the 123 until a LED lights up, then clamp it down. On mine, the only tricky part was choosing the right curve to suit my 1275 high compression engine. But as Marcel Chichak (who developed the Mini version) says, your engine will tell you which curve it likes best. I have not touched mine since I got it set. One nice feature is that it provides zero advance until the engine is turning at 500 rpm, then the curve gets turned on. This makes it very easy for the engine to get started, each and every time. On my car with the engine warmed up, it usually only takes a touch of the starter - not even a full revolution - for the engine to start.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I just had a 1275 engine and tranny rebuilt. When I bought the lump, it was missing a few parts. It still is missing those parts. First, it needs a distributor. The A+ engine will be carbed. What is the latest electronic distributor number?
I am looking for the aluminum block and the steel lower mounting bracket and long bolts & nuts for the front of the engine. It is the part where the motor mounts bolt to. Also the radiator "U" bracket, inner bush or sleeve and long bolt. And One piece rad shroud.
If anyone can help me out please call or text 631 566 4989 or email [email protected]
Thanks Jim
I am looking for the aluminum block and the steel lower mounting bracket and long bolts & nuts for the front of the engine. It is the part where the motor mounts bolt to. Also the radiator "U" bracket, inner bush or sleeve and long bolt. And One piece rad shroud.
If anyone can help me out please call or text 631 566 4989 or email [email protected]
Thanks Jim