Thanks, I've ordered new cylinders and the circlip installation tool...

You said Now found that rear bleed screws are not allowing brake fluid out, I'm now ready to replace the rear brake cylinders.

I had a bleed screw new out of the box that would not bleed . The wheel cylinder hole for the screw not been drilled out deep enough during manufacturing. So before you replace the rear wheel cylinders you might check that possibility. Long shot that both would be bad.

Here's the access port cover installed

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rEgNrRPLSRpSCgSMA

BTW, the securing nut on the front rubber brake line is 15/16 but a 1 incher will loosen it.

Found the rear lines were blocked as well, getting to the drivers side was difficult as a fuel filter is in the way.

Now found that  rear bleed screws are not allowing brake fluid out, I'm now ready to replace the rear brake cylinders.

What fun.

Nice access hole, for now and the future. Well done.

Got it, a used a hole saw to make an access port, something I've done on a few race cars.  I will make a  cover plate that is removable, but hopefully the next owner will appreciate the effort.  Found the brake line completely blocked, now on to the drivers side, the brake line nut looks rounded off, fun and games.

Photos here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/AryYvjaP3yZhg8Ag6

If you shift the ECU it will give you a clear path from above to the hose nut. 2 x M10 nuts to undo the ECU bracket and it's out of the way. You don't even need to unplug the ECU or butcher the inner wing.

Thanks, will do

Drill four holes at each corner so you can grind/cut into them, this gives a radius at the corners.

I was able to get the banjo fitting off by weighing around the sheet metal but no way to get to the top nut. I see on the drivers side there is a nice access port but none on the passenger side. I'm ready to cut one in tomorrow, probably means creating a cover plate but I can do that for sure. Any advice before I attack with my cut off wheel?

Photos here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5X4prKmzS4yHaop97

Cheers Tim

Thanks, that might be better than removing the brake booster and ECU, wow things are tight in there...not like my MGB

In the photo you posted, the inner wing is not fully lined up with the top of the subframe and there is a small kink in its flange. That suggests that someone may have been there before you and bent the inner wing away enough to gain access to the fitting and nut. My Mini has a similar deformity, not by me.  If all else fails you might try that.

Thanks, I will try that tomorrow

Cheers
Tim

After disconnecting and removing the brake light switch, Use an 11/16" socket with a very long extension attached. You will need to push the banjo fitting and brake line out of the way. 

Thanks, it is a 1996 with a booster and ECU ( Spi), anyway to do it without getting to the top nut?

This is a parts diagram of what is there. I don't know the year of your car. The parts in the center left side are what is there. https://www.minimania.com/catPage/6-38/6/38/1/Brake-Pipes-and-Fittles

Access can be a pain if you have a brake booster or ECU and other items in the way. The booster will have to be moved, though you can do that without dis-connecting the lines.

I don't see how to get it the top nut.

There is a large nut on top, and that is under a fitting for the brake line coming down to it and also the line to the other side.

I can not loosen the upper fitting, is there some secret?  This is a 1996 Blue Star

Cheers
Tim