Allspeed Engineering frame from UK is a better choice over the Minitec. I used both, ended up throwing the Minitec into the skip. The Allspeed won't try to kill you as it uses the Mini suspension. No aftersales service from Allspeed, but Minitec will help if they can. I ran a B18 Type R, it was a monster, very little torque steer unless you powered on out of a corner and didn't hang on. The sound of the vtec screaming at 9000 was a delight. It is expensive to do, cost to do it yourself runs mid $20s, mid $30s to have someone do it for you. Things like electrics, custom axles and a million other things do add up. Finding a nice engine is hard now. If you are doing the swap you really need to go vtec, why wouldn't you. I wouldn't do it again because I don't want to work on cars anymore, you will expect to be spannering often.

Good to hear that it is still worth hanging onto Riley. It is quite an in-depth conversion. So there is naturally going to be pains throughout. But over enough time there has been a lot of developments into the conversion with parts and education all over.
Didn't care for MiniTec's frame as it limits what you can use and add. I went with a stock suspension set up with 10" wheels/tires and 7.9" disc brakes up front and SuperFins in the rear. But I guess back in 2009, parts were limited in this conversion. Now there's been other shops and tuners tweaking things and offering their tweaks for others.
I was playing with the GranTurismo7 version of the Mini that they have in the game while the real one was being finished up. You can even do a K20 engine swap in the game. I have that one over 500hp now. I compared the photos of the real car with the game renderings. Quite a bit less hp in the real Mini after the dyno, but I'm still happy with it.
Cheers,

D16Z6 MiniTec build done in 2009. Going strong after 14 years and counting. Some initial teething pains including electrical gremlins and mechanical issues. Mine was in the first batch of conversions that MiniTec did with the D series, and the torque steer was bad to start with. Their redesigned steering arm fixed it. Needed to replace the fuse panel and some of the wiring after a near disaster. The unknown condition clutch on the used JDM transmission threw a spring early on and needed a rebuild. The fuel system has gone through several versions eventually scrapping the modified original tank and installing an upgraded FI tank and new plumbing. My initial cost was in the neighborhood of what Markiss said, but to be fair that included a full strip down, bodywork and a full paint job. About the only thing I would do different if I was doing it now would be to try and keep the original subframe and 10 inch tires. The MiniTec front suspension works fine, and the great 9.5 inch disc brakes would be impossible without the 13 inch wheels, but I couldn't autocross this car, unless the track was set up for school buses.

The way I figure it, is that it was going to cost a bunch of money either way. The stock A-series engine was too far worn out. Major overhaul needed. Not a huge fan of that engine for reasons that you provided and beyond. But I thought if it was done up right, maybe it could last and be reliable. I'm sure if you turned the wrenches yourself, there'd be a back of savings into the cost. I've seen all kinds of DIY builds on YouTube. So it doesn't need to cost $20-$30K, but it can. 

Some even made their own subframes. I also didn't want MiniTec's subframes, as you can only use coil overs. I'm using the stock Mini set up. All new parts of course. I was too far into the build when Steveston came out with their own subframe, otherwise I would of went for theirs for that belly-drop out and skid plate option. I had a hinged skid plate added to the McGees subframe I have, just to be safe. 

There's more than one way to skin a cat as they say. Just came across this chap with his interesting build: https://www.thedrive.com/news/this-homemade-wrx-powered-classic-mini-is-a-mid-engine-rwd-go-kart

I'm building a Rover Mini Beach Car, so I got my own "project Binky". It is also taking years. I'm nearing the paint stage. But in fairness, I took a year off to rebuild my SPI. And 3 years for my sculptures.

I did look at McGee's subframe and Stevenson's subframe. McGee's frame is nicely done. Stevenson's frame is well thought out with the ability to drop the bottom half. 

Jet Motors turbo kit is very intriguing. I'm not sure how long a mini motor will last. I have an SPI with 72K miles and it is in need of a rebuild. It is consuming oil and I'm not hard on it at all. I have an unrestrained poodle taking up the back seat and I can face plant her into the side windows if I take the corners too fast.

I damn near did...or feels close to it, lol. Been following that build for awhile. Great project. Wondering when it'll go for sale and who the lucky one will be. 

....or you could do a "Project Binky"
(241) Project Binky - Episode 38 - Austin Mini GT-Four - Turbocharged 4WD Mini - YouTube

It sounds high Jim, but you'd have to see the list of what you get for it though. And sorry, I quoted CDN dollars. So for you southern folks, it's less than the $20-$30K. I touched on a few bits and goodies, if you go here it breaks it down a bit further. Look at the 'Ultimate Kit'. https://sites.google.com/view/mcgeescustomminis/products
If I didn't go for the VTEC, I may have gone with the rebuilt and modified turbo engine kit that JET Motors builds, or something from SevenEnt.

Jim,

In addition to any information gleaned here, you might also want to check in on the following website, which contains a VTEC specific Mini forum:

 https://www.16vminiclub.com/

Thank you for your reply Markiss. Interesting story. My first question that popped into my small brain is why such a high cost? From the stats, a 1275 mini produces roughly 60hp and is more than enough to get you into  trouble and off the road.  I  just remember in my early automotive days of taking a 6 cylinder  out and swapping in a V8. Costs were affordable. But as you say 20 -30K. WOW. Thanks for the addresses.

I took the plunge. Just got it finished my little resto-mod. I'd include photos, but cannot figure out how to add iPhone photos to this forum. Quite the plunge. I went all out and had the donor completely stripped. There's not too much in the way of parts that were off of the original car, that were put back on or in. I've been doing everything to it. Complete overhaul and modification. More than just the engine swap. Everything on and in the car is new. Lonnnnng list of parts. 

Just the swap alone could cost around $20-$30K depending on what you go with. And that's for a D-series. But that's an engine that's stripped, cleaned, machined, new parts, modified parts, subframe, axles, ECU, harnesses, fuel system, brakes, trans, etc. Basically everything you need to get it driving. But if you just wanted a stock D-series without some of the modified parts, the cost would be lower. 

The D-series (105-130hp stock) is more often used. More available parts for the conversion with this option. The lighter of the engine series. Lighter than the stock Mini A-series. 

The B-series (150-200hp stock) is a close second. Tighter fit and heavier engine.

The K-series is just too big. You need to either extend the front end metal body pieces or get a fibreglass extension front end. More work, even heavier engine. More power though.  

For additional conversion parts that fit without hacking the crap out of the Mini to fit it all, McGees Custom Minis https://www.facebook.com/people/Mcgees-Custom-Minis/100063668606399/?ref=py_c  in partnership  with Ulrich Vehicle Design https://www.facebook.com/ulrichvehicledesign/  offer parts for the conversion. Steveston Motor Co. https://stevestonmotorco.com knows these conversions really well and works with McGee in a way. They've worked with McGee and even adapted beyond. Lots of design ingenuity went into it all. They offer some off their own parts that they've created for it all. Worth looking into if you're serious. 
Cannot say enough good things about Steveston. Great quality work and they're always looking for ways to improve. Check out their YouTube page listed on their site for updates, newly designed parts, builds, etc on it all. 
 
You can go mild or wild with the swap. I went just above mild. Didn't want a fire breather crazed machine. Wanted it reliable, but more than stock. I went for the D-series and added some goodies to get 181hp at the engine, and 165hp at the wheels. More than good enough. Once it gets closer to 200hp, the torque steer gets harsher. There's some that even have gone to an AWD set up to contain this. I believe they use a Honda CRV set up. I just have the FWD with a Syncrotech trans that has a Mfactory LSD in it. Still gets a little wild though. 

You need the higher final drive. The stock trans ratio will work, but you won't like it. Worth the upgrade.

Drivability is fun so far. Haven't had too much fun with it yet. Literally fresh out of the shop. Not even broken in yet. Just shook it up and off and had the bugs sorted out. I haven't stretched her out too much to really give a well informed feedback on it. Fun thus far though. 

In all, it's a better reliable set up, fresh parts, upgraded components, added power and fun factor. Bunch of work, but worth it. 

Wouldn't want to do the crotch-rocket engine swap. Wayyy too loud. High revving screaming banshee madness. Low torque as well. 

A wild set up would be the K-series. There's kits for FWD, RWD, AWD set ups. Depends what you're into. 

Lots involved to discuss

Hi Guys, I would like to start a discussion about Honda engine swaps. Please NO bashing. I would like to hear from those that made the plunge. It would be great to hear about overall costs, drivability, what are the beneficial parts or modifications, what makes you happy about of the build. Thanks Jim