Quick Tune Up Tip for SPI minis.

Under the dist cap, a white residue builds up at the terminal posts.
Take a Dremel with a wire brush attachment to remove and a light file to the rotor.
You'll notice the performance right away.

Changed the coolant/antifreeze today. 68F .

I did NOT undo the difficult-to-get-at lower radiator hose to drain the system. This took under 30 min.

Steps 1. loosen clamp and twist off the radiator end of the short UPPER radiator hose. Temporarily plug the radiator inlet with a rag. 2. turn end of the upper radiator hose toward the front and downward. insert hose into a pipe (I used a fishing rod holder pipe) 3. Aim the pipe into a 5 gallon bucket 4. Warm up the engine with the radiator cap OFF. 5. When thermostat opens and coolant flows (into the bucket) immediately start pouring distilled water into the radiator fill neck. I used 1 gallon. Need to wait once or twice as the thermostat will close from cool water. Heats back up quickly. The 1 gallon will flush out all the old coolant. You will see the flow turn clear. 6. Keep the engine running and this time pour new 50/50 mix. I used 1 gallon. ( If you are concerned about the strength, you could run a second gallon of 50/50 through there or add some full strength coolant. 7. Turn off engine. Reinstall upper radiator hose and radiator cap. Test drive and recheck coolant level.

I would like to offer up a tip when replacing the outer rocker panels. I posted something similar a while ago on another thread, but I think this is worth repeating.
After removing the old rocker, and welding patch panels to the inner sill/ floor pan, you are ready to weld in the replacements.
Here's where I deviate, anytime you lap metal together rust starts and in the case of the mini it rots through and that's exactly were we are.

Across the entire lower length of the new rocker panel, I drill or punch 1/4 inch holes about 3/8 of an inch from edge, maybe 2 inch spacing. For the upper that comes in contact with door step seam and body seam, I leave alone. I will drill or punch 3/16 inch holes the length of the rocker. It is much easier to weld from the top of something than to weld upside down.

Now we can weld. Align the rocker panel on the lower seam and clamp. Plug weld 3 holes; one on each end and in the middle, all from the top.

Here's the tip - I put an1/4 inch stainless washer as a spacer between the outside of the floor pan and the new inside rockers. Use the predrilled holes on the rocker you made earlier and align the SS washer hole and Plug weld. Make sure you are welding to the floor pan, otherwise you are just welding a washer to the rocker panel.

The created space will allow the moisture to constantly flow out. You can do this to the rear valance and the rear splash panel and the area where the front panel attaches to the inner wing.


Just a side note. I got some sheet stainless steel and made my patch panels out of them for the inner sills of the floor pan. I live in the north east and we use salt on the roads, the mini is my only car, sadly it sits outside. I used a urethane seam sealer to smooth things out. I used Sherwin Williams Macropoxy  2 part primer and Acrolon 2 part top coat for the paint. I get spray cans of paint mixed with my color formula to match as a top coat. I've been very happy with the performance.

Let me know what you think.

I use Irish spring. About 6 bars per car. I don't shave it or anything, just put the whole bar in in the opened box.

Here is my "wisdom" I could never get the rear drum brakes adjusted properly (front discs/rear drums). Always touchy - rear locking up instantly on wet pavement, for example. or inability to make a panic stop without dragging the rear and smoking the tires, especially on the right. I tried repeated adjustments, new pads, new drums. No joy Then I realized, duh, that the emergency brake mechanism (at the bottom of the brake shoes) had effects like the adjuster at the top. It had to be adjusted correctly. My pull-up emergency brake handle was tight at one click. Therefore, the rear brake shoes could never totally "relax" . Manual said it should be three clicks. I pulled back the carpet around the handle mechanism, loosened the nut, and test drove with the three clicker setting. Problem solved.

I'll offer up one on the clutch replacement in situ:

Whenever you work on a "Wok" clutch cover on a mini, don't put in the bolt that is at about 7 o'clock. ( this is whether the powertrain is in the subframe or out - because next time you'll appreciate not having to mess with that. ) With all of the others in place, the wok is held down just fine. If I remember correctly, the bolt has a 7/16" head, so you should also be sure to have a swivel head ratcheting box end wrench for fitting in between the subframe and powertrain and working more quickly.

Lastly, beware of the quality of the "Throwout / Release bearing" during a clutch replacement. Recently, two known cases of clutch problems have been linked to them.

Best, MSH

6464s, I should have explained better, on the pot joints I have there is a groove at the back the width of the disk with the curves on it. I push it into the pot and twist it a bit so that the curves interfere with the grooves on the pot, then I put a slide hammer block on it (there needs to be a bolt/washer on the end of the shaft. Not sure why I made the PVC thingie!

Martin, I do like your spark plug lift eyes. I  just  lifted my engine using the right angle eyes attached to the studs for the rocker cover. I kept thinking " I hope these studs don't bend'. I like the larger diameter of the plugs.

I pulled my front subframe out to epoxy paint it, put the engine back in the cradle and rolled it back under. I made a dolly wheel set out of bent steel and two 5 inch swivel wheels, then bolted to the front of the subframe. That stabilize the frame on four wheels. I'll try to take a picture.

I don't get how the slide hammer works. What does it attach to?

Here's a tip for the mice problem - use moth balls. I cut the bottom of soda bottles, but you can use paint caps, etc. Fill it with moth balls and place them at the corners of the bulkhead in the engine bay,  inside the mini, and add a couple balls at each end of the opening of the fresh air pipes.

Great idea for a thread!

So, on the right is how I've been lifting the engines out of my minis for 50+ years, a lifting hook welded to scrap spark plugs, it pulls it at a nice angle that tilts back as you lift.

On the left is a slide hammer that I've used to pull out the pot joints off the differential. I've no need for it anymore so a bottle of Vodka buys it. Hardened St.St. Not too sure why I added the PVC block but it must have had a reason!
More tips to come!

Just put a silicone lower hose on my moke. It does not have very much stretch at all. Did it while the engine was out. Would not be able to with the engine in.

I like the tape idea. Now I've heard that silicone hoses don't have the elasticity, so I don't think it will work for them. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, just no experience with that product.

On your tip #2. When I did this last I put tape over the hose clamp to hold in place while installing the hose. Keeps the clamp end in place so you don't to move it to tighten.

I paint the flat end of the wheel studs white to make them easier to see when installing the wheels.

With this thread, I am hoping mini owners will share their tips or tricks for working on their minis. Whether it is making specific tools or replacing parts. To start off, I have two that fits the bill.

What to do with used parts. I try not to throw away parts that I've replaced because you never know.

Tip. I just replaced the two front rubber brake line hoses. What to do with this part that I'll never use? I cut off the two metal ends. Using my cutoff wheel, I put two spiral grooves in the threads. Now, I just made a brake line tap.

Trick.  When replacing the bottom hose of the radiator in situ, I align the clamp with the nut side towards the fire wall, make it fairly loose, so it will allow the hose and clamp  to slide over the ridge of the radiator oulet. I coat the inside of the hose with a little petroleum jelly to help it slide. From the top, I use a broom stick handle to push the hose on. Again from the top, I use a couple of long extensions of my rachet to tighten the clamp nut between the rad hose and the subframe. 


My hope is that others that do the work on their mini will share their tips and tricks.