I decided to tighten the castle nut the old school method rather than go by torque settings. The wheel would not turn if torqued to specs.
I looked at the races and bearing surfaces, all good. I repacked the inner and outer bearings. Then tighten the hub nut  and spun the wheel. Grabbed the tire and gave it a hardy shake to check for play. None. So far so good.

Mini bearings are not like trailer bearings; the two races are spaced so that they give the correct preload on the rollers hence tightening them to a specified torque setting.  Trailer bearings are free floating with a lock nut (instead of a castellated nut and a split-pin) which is why they need regular checks and are tightened as required.

Be aware that some of the el-cheapo non-gen bearings aren't a big enough diameter on the inner part of the race to shim with balljoint shims - I found that out yesterday on my car trailer...

I fully greased the bearings before torquing. 

Thanks, I got the process. I use to tighten the nut by the old fashion way by feel at 12 & 6  and 3 & 6  to check for movement. Then this community mentioned torque specs. 

Now the question is, in the shimming process, should I grease the outer bearing while I check for the correct torque? I ask about that bearing because it will be in and out ( attraction to dirt and dust ). I figure I would grease the inner and it would be relatively clean.

Shim them.  Works fine.  Shims fit between inner and outer wheel bearing faces.  I think I found that front ball joint shims fit allowing the stub axle to fit through.  Fit one thin shim and check if the wheel spins after tightening the nut.  If not increase shim thickness till it you can torque and the wheel spins freely without binding or being loose.  After your first drive, put your hand on the wheel center to check if too hot.  Compare the temperature to the other wheels.

how much did you torque them?

Do not need a ton like front discs.

When I replaced my worn out original rear ball bearings with "plug and play" tapered, I had the same problem.

Haynes says 60 ft lbs but no. I ended up just doing it by feel - the old fashioned way - works fine. Might have been 40 at the very most. That was 20 years ago and they are doing fine

Rear bearings should be an easy replacement. But not so, I replaced them, torqued, couldn't spin the tire. Others have said they shim them. Please share your knowledge. Thanks Jim