A quick hone and kit is always my first thought. I have access to a Sunnen rod machine. We have hones as long as the bore and can hone full length very true and no bell mouth. If there are rust pits after honing marks show full length I go to plan B. Currenlty only the split system masters are worth sleeving. If sleeving comes down or cyls go up that may change.

As for the silicone I have done a 911, AH 3000, Sprite, early mini, Super 7. All seemed to have a soft pedal just a bit springy at the bottom of stroke. (I was warned by the guy who sleeves my cyls  that the Chinese brake kits do not like Silicone makes the seals swell) They all stop just fine and once used to the feel it's no big deal. On the race cars we replace the brake and clutch fluid after and before each race weekend. Everything gets kits at least once a year. I should purge the street systems every year or so. I have different color fluids so I can tell when all old has left the building. 

Steve

I have honed and rebuilt many master brake and clutch cylinders successfully, and have converted my Mini to silicone fluid all the way around.   I like the feel and less water attraction.  However, it seems like the old Lockheed units have a propensity for rusting out beyond being rebuildable.

I have to agree Mur, the numbers don't add up. If sleeving with two way shipping runs $110, the kit is $25/$30 then personal labor. Boom, a new one is around $130/$140 with shipping. My thinking is (and it's clear I think to much) with three all early to mid 90s and all suffering from rust in exactly the same spot. I'd say this is a common problem for these units. Will this problem be less likely with a stainless steel or brass sleeve? Maybe it's time to convert to silicone fluid. My complete system has been apart and new hard and soft pipes replaced as well as caliper kits and wheel cyls. I have never liked the feel of silicone always a little soft.

Like I said I have buckets of old parts and when none are out there or they get expensive I hope I can still get kits and the sleeving will begin.

Steve

At the time I posted this, I couldn't find one at our host, that's why I posted it. Now you can buy one from our host at the cost of $495.99. GO ahead and buy one. I already have the two I need.

I just thought I would point out that our host sells MK III servos, MK I servo copies as discussed originally in this thread, and 1988-onward combo booster/master cylinder assemblies as discussed at the end of the thread.  

When it comes to those late master cylinders, you'd have to be nuts to rebuild one when a new one is so cheap.  I actually think I'll buy one to have on hand.

Oh, and the master cylinder for my daily driver Lexus is about $2400.oo, which is more than most of my minis originally cost.

There are a number of shops that handle this type work. I have one shop I use but won't mention here. There are people who like some places and hate others.

They bore the cyl. press a sleeve in place drill the holes hone it and send it back. Masters run about $90 each plus $10 shipping. I have every master and slave as well as wheel cyls. I have replaced over the years. If and when it becomes sound dollar wise I'll start sleeving.

Steve

Cooper, can you provide any further details re how to sleeve one of the original Lockheed units? Thanks

Maybe OT, I have just completed the rebuild on a very late booster. The kit was complete but came with no paper work at all. Above I listed that I had a unit for sale. I bought three, all were sold as working fine when removed. That's how I listed the one I want to sell. As it turns out none are working correctly. An worst than that none of the masters are rebuildable with just a kit. All will require a sleeve to repair the rust damage in the rear brake seal area. This leads to fluid in the booster. The cost of new is about the same as cost of sleeve and kit with shipping and labor. First thought would be new but the stainless steel sleeve may avoid a repeat of the same problem since all have same damage. I believe this brake system did not start till 87/88 so there should not be any in this country. Mine is a retro fit to my 85 1000E if you have this system and start to notice fluid loss not due to pad or shoe wear I can tell you what's happening. The booster kit is expensive and a bear to install.

I'll see if I can get a picture of the 67 Cooper S 1360 power dressed as a 90 carbed Cooper I have just installed in Alex's car.

Steve

The prices on their site are not accurate.  Talked to them today and the current price for a new VH44J is $395 Aust ($423 USD), not $295 as listed.  I might have settled for the later style for $295.  

Still on the hunt for a good serviceable Lockheed unit (if rebuild kits are available for these?)  Are they?    

I have three of the late style two which work fine and one loosing fluid. I picked one working fine to rebuild fluid and air. If I get that back together and working I'll do the fluid side only of the leaker. That's of course if the leaking fluid has not damaged the booster. The third is for sale with pedal assemble RHD as is or rebuilt depending on out come of my current efforts. Parts hung up in customs should be here tomorrow. I also have a couple of MK3 type boosters one which will not release the brakes once applied. This condition happened after someone stepped off a curb in front of me and I locked the brakes all four wheels. I waited till the released and took it to the shop using only hand brake. I'll report back here when done. I'd still like to hear from someone who has had success with one.

Steve

Info for those of you with an Australian Cooper S-
From ~1969 on, these were fitted with an Australian made `PBR' VH44J booster instead of Lockheed. Still available new from //www.hydroboost.com.au/index.htm prices are on the site.
Their site also says they can recondition the Mk1S Lockheed ones.

Taking this into consideration, along with reading about all of the hassle that Ron went through trying to rebuild his, I shored up my funds to buy the new booster ---    But the sale is now over!  

I asked them if they would sell it to me for the $355 price I saw on their site yesterday as I needed to juggle some funds and was about to order it today, but his only reply was:   "The current price is now $395"   Too bad, cause I'm a cheapskate and I'm not paying $40 more.  Not a show stopper item for me right now anyhow, and I'm OK waiting until the next sale.

good question, mainly what I remember was that it wouldn't realease, not sure what exactly it was but I was trying to get the car done, and didnt want to mess too much with it, time and safety was the main thing. I think helpmymini re-did his. I think if the shaft would have been in better shape it would have been ok.

Thinking back I have yet to talk with someone who rebuilt one with good results. Once I popped this open I questioned my judgement. I'm going to give a shot and hope for the best. Ron was it the air side of fluid side that gave you the problem?

I tried my old one from my S with no results, $100. for the kit, and no good, I guess my shaft inside was too pitted, bought a replacement shaft, that didnt work either, in the end it wasn't too much more to buy the repro, and I knew it would work perfectly. Also, at the time I couldn't find the rebuild for the air valve on top. Not sure if you can get that now or not. I still have all the old stuff, but I'm not sure exactly why! I was thinking you could use all the new stuff, but use the outside casing of the old if you wanted a concourse car, but with new innards.

A little OT Ron but not much. I have picked up a late style (all in one) booster/master. Son Alex is 12 valentines day, just four years till he asks for the keys to his car. OK , OK I'm getting to it. I split the booster and wait for the kit to arrive. I hope they include good instructions as I have never done one of these and while simple it looks like an easy screw up. Anyone done one with good results?

Steve

Certainly looks the part.  Can anyone compare the internal dimensions??

Cheers, Ian

mk1 they offer looks almost exactly like the original, different looking than mk3 one.

Inner right fender with these, basically the same as mkIII.

//www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI-COOPER-S-BRAKE-SERVO-MOUNTING-BRACKETS-/260950117606?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc1d6cce6

They are still pretty proud of this part based on cost!  The MK3 booster with mounting kit is $230 from a well-known parts supplier, so I'm not sure what makes the MK1 reproduction booster worth $125 more than that (on sale)??  It would certainly be cheaper to find a used MK1 booster and buy the rebuild kit, assuming it would fit.

How is a MK1 booster mounted and where can the mounting parts be found?