Kevin, you got me thinking about the weak link in the front suspension. If you think about it the tie rod (lower strut) is held to the lower control arm by a 5/16 bolt. The lower control are is held in place by a 3/8 stud on the wiggle pin. I once as a young guy was able to rip the strut rod tab off the corner of the sub frame. I was using rose jointed bits and the 5/16 bolt that ties the body to the front corner of sub frame was all that saved me from a really bad ride. I have installed both the MSC adjustables and the much beefer one with the 1 inch threaded ends. It is nice to back off a jamb nut and adjust camber without jacking the car. Then all you need to do is roll a little to relieve camber thrust.

CTR

I fitted fixed -1.5° arms because IMO the current Minispares design ones with a 1/2" thread hanging out the end looked too flimsy (after I had bought a pair). I had visions of them being taken out by a standard Oz design pothole.

Maybe it's just me, but I reckon the old tube and locknut style ones looked more solid.

I'd agree with on car adjustable lower arms. 1.5 arms are just 1.5 different from what you had. As you raise and lower the ride height the camber will change also.

CTR

Go adjustable arms as a Mini may have come from the factory with anything from 1 to 2.5 degrees positive camber.  Adjustable arms end all issues and allow for fine tuning of camber after height and caster changes.  My 2 cents.

this question has been in the back of my mind for month if not years,

and yet with the mathematical knowledge floating in the back of my mind the two have  never been able to merge together.

I could kick myself in the rear for it

thanks Steve

Been awhile since I made up a pair of non adsjustable 1.5 degree arms, but if I recall, I added 1/8" to the stock length; 2 degrees would be 33% more than that, etc.  The formula is: Tangent of the angle equals side (a) over side (b).  The angle being the camber increase you want; side (a) being the arm length increase you are looking for; and side (b) being the the distance between swivel joint ball centers, which you can get close enough to, using a ruller; (if you are off a quarter inch in your measurment, it is not that critical). I don't have one handy to measure, but I think it is between 4 and 5 inches.  When you solve for side (a), just add it to the stock lower arm length.

can anyone chime in with the lengths for the lower arm for 1.5, 2 & 2.5 degree negative camber. I know its been posted before but I cant seem to find it.