That's supposed to be the idea, but when I lost a cylinder on my Toyota truck (dual line master), I still lost all 4 wheels, because the pedal went to the floor anyway. The fail safe is that handle between the seats;  called a "parking brake" now, but in the old days it was called the "emergency brake".

My advise is not to go backwards in safety/quality of parts.

Speakers, I always used a single line Master Cylinder, no boosters, with 4 or 6 pot front brakes and have had no problems.  The pedal box we make for our VTEC conversions, also use single line Wilwood cylinders,(puts the masters under the dash, so there is nothing in the bay to interfere with the manifold. 

Actually CT the LHD linkage is hard to source as it was only installed on later model cars with the booster and there was not a big LHD market in the later years with most of the exports going to RHD Japan.                                                                              MTS as you are developing Suzuki kits you may want to see if your fabricator can make some LHD kits as i am sure they would sell well as no one has them in stock AFAIK.

Glad to hear you got sorted out. Having never seen one or bought one I have no idea what they go for. It would seem as many people as want to change LHD to RHD they would be out there. I may just need the linkage and not the booster. I have driven minis without brakes since the 60s but Alex has never had the pleasure. I may just rebuild a dual line cyl. and fore go the booster. When you figure it out let me know.

Steve

Steve, good hearing from you, I finally got around to posting on your site last night. Mike took care of me today with a new master dual line yellow tag, with new lines, etc for a very good price.

Also again, what is a fair price to offer on the complete booster, pedal assembly, tube, etc? Cheers guys.

Speakers, I'm repowering my 85 1000 and would like to improve the brakes in prep. for my son Alex starting driving. I assume you are working with a left hand drive car (same as mine) and you may want to look at the price on duel masters. Keep me in mind as this unfolds.

Steve

Rosebud, I will take it off you I suppose. I will shoot you an email.

As far as the others, I may pull off the complete setup and post it up for sale then rather than trade. I don't want to rebuild anything due to time contraints, and really cost ain't a whole lot for the dual line master. Will email you Nich for how much you want on the pedal assemble, and then I suppose I'll have almost all the bits I need. So what would a fair price be on a functioning setup of pedal assembly, bar, and booster?

Cheers.

i do have a yellow tag  master cylinder from a lhd 1985 or 86 mini that needs rebuiling for sale if your interested. i put a new one or time reasons. i convertd my 68 to the dual set up for saftey. I also swapped out pedal assembly to have brake switch on pedal and not inline

OK, I see what you are doing.  Twin master would probably be the way.  You will have to change the entire pedal assembly with the mount, I think you can reuse the clutch pedal but that is about it.  However, you could sell your current setup or trade for what you need.  I would be interested in buying or a trade, as are others.  One suggestion, use a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve instead of the factory one.  That way you can set the brake bias exactly where you want it.  Without a servo it will take more effort to stop.

Close, not vtec, but Suzuki G10. So I guess I will look into a dual line master then.

Snagged this pic off here:

First question - Yes

Second question - Depends on the results you are expecting.

Third question - You need to choose, do you want the best or the most economical way.  They are pretty well mutually exclusive.

TBI?  Are you converting to a VTEC? 

The boosted setup you currently is by far the best brake master ever (factory) installed in a Mini.  If you remove the booster, you will be degrading the brake performance.  If you are intent on using a non boosted setup, I suggest you look at a late 80's Mini and replicate that setup.  They had the 8.4" disc brakes with a non boosted twin master next to the clutch.  Just keep in mind there is a reason the factory went to the setup you currently have.  And it was not to reduce cost.

if the car is already set up for front/rear split a non servo front/rear split master cylinder would be easiest as you wouldn't be modifying the braking system I would assume. 

Something like..

//www.minimania.com/web/Item/GMC227/InvDetail.cfm 

From our host or elsewhere.

Chris

Let's assume then it is a 1989 Brake Booster, looks identical to the one I had on my 91. So yes I wanted to do a single master to the front-rear splitter... bad idea? Or would I need to get rid of the T and put in a bias? Just looking for the best/economical way to convert it to not having a brake booster because that is roughly where the TBI would be.

To the best of my knowledge a 1985 LHD Mini has a tandem vertical master cylinder on the left hand side. The horizontal master cylinder with the integral booster was introduced in 1989. If there is a brake booster on the right hand side it's either not a 1985 or someone added the brake booster. Is the current master cylinder vertical or horizontal?

If it's a 1985 then I assume what you're trying to do is eliminate the brake booster and join the front-rear split to a single circuit style master cylinder.

Kelley

Someone on here recently was looking for the bar set-up.

As for the been can.  If you bodged a single line can in there....you wouldn't have a split front/rear system anymore right?

Wanted to get your thoughts on this, car is being dropped off this weekend and here is the jist. Buddy has a 1985 Mini that is LHD and has a brake booster on the right side. So I need to get rid of his brake booster and convert it to a non booster setup. Couple of questions, he has the T fitting for the brakes. So is it as easy as buying a new bean can, and could I just use a single line bean can to run to the T-fitting? 2nd question, is the pedal assembly going to work since I assume it has a 3ft bar that runs accross to the right side. I am not sure if it will have the clevis pin setup since I have never worked on that type of setup before. Lastly, and benefits of going to the dual line bean can? He does have 8.4's on the front. All my Mini's other than the first one always had just a single line, with the same T-fitting and it worked fine... Thoughts?