@nicholasupton, Thanks for the input. You do great work it appears on your blog. cheers.

The correct way to replace the cross-member. is to do it with the outer sills removed so the new one can be spot-welded in as the factory did. If out sill removal can not be done then the ends will need to be plug-welded in place. Be sure you paint the floor and underside of the new cross-member, and use weld primer on the panels joints. As far as a special welder I have purchased a commercial spot welder for doing body repairs, as I want work to appear factory down to the spot welds.

im about to do one, as i am replacing both my floors sodes front to back.  Seems to me i would use a mig welder, punch a lot of holes, and do cherry welds, and just lay a bead fron and back where it sits on the center tunnel

Thanks Drmini. Much appreciated I will check it out.

Here's photos of Nick Upton doing that repair by replacement recently for one of his customers.  Check out his website: //boot2bonnet.com/ for the finished results.  As you can see from my photos, there was no factory paint under the old crossmember which can be a haven for rust to start.  I'm no bodyman, but I think Nick has a special welder he uses for this panel.

The crossmember of my mini's floor is in great disrepair. I suppose thats what happends when it is left outdoors in GA for a year an a half. Humidity sucks. So I am going to be doing the tedious task of repairing it by replacement. Has anyone done this recently (or ever) have any tips, tricks, or photos. Any advice would be nice. I have some questions as well. Is this a hard weld to do? I am at best an amatuer welder. Is there a sertain type of welder needed and how much prep work is involved. Thanks

Josh