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Found 78 Messages

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 Posted: Oct 13, 2021 04:31AM
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CA
Good to know! Thanks for posting your results.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Oct 12, 2021 04:10PM
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US
It has been a while and I re-built the SU's and made sure the damper drops freely while I was rebuilding the carbs. Now the car starts, idles and runs fine...everytime

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Apr 21, 2020 03:40PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamMini
It has been a while, here now is the new situation. I check the fuel pump and it works, I checked for spark at the plugs and it does have spark. It will not start? I spray starting fluid on the carbs, it will start briefly and then die. I did this a couple of times. but it would not start on its own so I have concluded it is a fuel issue at the carbs. Any ideas?

Thanks
Float needles sticking.
Tap the float lids with a screwdriver handle they usually release, they may be gummed up and need cleaning.
The white plastic ones seem more prone to this issue the better ones are the viton ones brass with black rubber tips.
Also the jets get gummed up especially if the car has sat a while with ethanol fuel in it.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Apr 20, 2020 05:11PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamMini
It has been a while, here now is the new situation. I check the fuel pump and it works, I checked for spark at the plugs and it does have spark. It will not start? I spray starting fluid on the carbs, it will start briefly and then die. I did this a couple of times. but it would not start on its own so I have concluded it is a fuel issue at the carbs. Any ideas?

Thanks
interesting thread.... i’ve the same issues with my 1.5” dual setup. 

 Posted: Apr 20, 2020 03:07PM
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US
It has been a while, here now is the new situation. I check the fuel pump and it works, I checked for spark at the plugs and it does have spark. It will not start? I spray starting fluid on the carbs, it will start briefly and then die. I did this a couple of times. but it would not start on its own so I have concluded it is a fuel issue at the carbs. Any ideas?

Thanks

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Mar 29, 2012 04:14AM
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US

It's been awhile now but I'm reasonably sure it's an early MSC 30 degree manifold. No disrespect to anyone but way back I bought all the books I could find on theroy and SU/weber carbs and read them like novels and reread till I almost had a clue. After awhile the black magic, smoke and mirrors started to clear. I still get stumped now and then. I'll look for a good set of carbs and see what I can do to help. I have no expectation of reading this whole mess.  

CTR

 Posted: Mar 28, 2012 05:41PM
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US

I bought a mini manifold (20) from Coopertune. The carb farther from the radiator needs to be richer if not the car would not rev up and if I make it richer it works better and when they are warmed up making it richer would not change the idle when you push on the pin to raise the dashpot. I was thinking of buying a good used twin carb or just save up for a brand new one or even just have this set rebuilt which ever way would be more economical.

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 16, 2012 04:56PM
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They look level to me but maybe it has a 20 degree Spridget manifold, any of this should not cause it to backfire though.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 16, 2012 11:17AM
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Did I miss something?

Do these carbs have the 30 degree float bowls for a Mini?

 Posted: Feb 16, 2012 05:55AM
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Yes. If it is still on choke it will not be lean, if it is off choke try pulling the choke out a little to see if it helps but it could also be timing.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 15, 2012 11:07PM
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US

Could a lean mixture cause backfiring when the car has not reached normal operating temperature?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 8, 2012 10:05AM
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OK a cheap way to balance the carbs without a sychronizer is to use a length of 1/4 inch or 5/16 fuel hose or any small hose for that matter. After the engine is warmed up loosen up the carb linkage that connects the two carbs then place the hose near one carb throat opening and listen to the hiss sound then go to the other carb and adjust the throttle stop so the hiss is the same, at that point they are synched. You then turn the throttle stop screws up or down equally until you find the right idle speed and then reclamp the linkage so both carb open at the same time.

All this should be done when the mixture, timing, points, plugs are all in spec and you will need to re check your mixture afterwards, when you lift the pistons the rev's should rise slightly then drop off.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 8, 2012 08:11AM
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 Posted: Feb 7, 2012 08:11PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal

Did you balance them when you installed them ? It sounds like they may not be synchronized.

What do you mean? balancing by the throttle stop screws? Could it be that the hose from the float bowls to the jet is clogged?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 7, 2012 05:51AM
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Did you balance them when you installed them ? It sounds like they may not be synchronized.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 7, 2012 01:29AM
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US

What could be wrong on the 1 carb (closer to the radiator) when I press on the lift pin the idle does not change. On the other carb the mixture is just right when I press on the lift pin the idle rises a little bit and then goes down to almost dead. Any suggestions?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 2, 2012 09:35PM
 Edited:  Apr 15, 2012 05:13PM
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US

 

 

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 1, 2012 10:56PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal

The Jet (needle hole) needs to be turned up to the bridge so that it is level and then turned down twelve flats or two full turns on the adjustment nut underneath, that should give you a decent starting point.

Okay Thanks

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Feb 1, 2012 09:21PM
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The Jet (needle hole) needs to be turned up to the bridge so that it is level and then turned down twelve flats or two full turns on the adjustment nut underneath, that should give you a decent starting point.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 1, 2012 07:00PM
 Edited:  Feb 1, 2012 07:01PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by

I realized that when I installed the carbs and the car was running I sprayed throttle body cleaner on the outside of the carb to clean it and the idle did not change. Anyway here are pictures of the carbs dismantled again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does the needle hole need to be close to flush with the bridge as a starting point?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

Found 78 Messages

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