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 Posted: Nov 27, 2011 06:14AM
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US

I'm confused (nothing new) are you asking for prices for new and correct casting number intakes for 997 and 1071 and 1275 Coopers? The latter are mostly for correct restorations and go for 3/4 times what I'm asking for a modifed after market intake. You can buy a 1275 new intake right here for $152.

Steve

 Posted: Nov 26, 2011 12:49PM
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US

okay, I can e-mail you shipping address and give me prices of the twin 1.25" intake manifolds, thanks

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Nov 26, 2011 03:05AM
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US

Getting ready to go on the Turkey Run, I'll contact you after I return. How about a 30 degree twin intake for $45. plus shipping? I use flat rate or US Postal.

I also have new intakes and all Cooper S and Cooper up to and including the steel Maniflow twin 1.5 and MSC alloy twin 1.5.

Steve

 Posted: Nov 26, 2011 02:33AM
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US

I just took out the carb assembly because I needed to clean it. It has a 3-1 header as like the OEM header on the MG 1100. What direction do I go a new manifold for my single 1.5" or complete a 1.25" twin? I will eventually place a modified cylinder head on this mini and also a mild street cam and an LCB header.

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:50PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz

The dog bone I pulled off my "bone" ...pun intended.... stock 998 auto ( 1989 ) is the same length as my manual gearbox engined ones.

OK yeah I forgot that on the later Rovers, ALL the motors got moved forward... (please forgive me, Minis of all sorts stopped being made or sold here in Oz, in 1978... the world ended as we knew it)

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:40PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune

Acouple of things to consider. Small bore power units are about 3/8 inch shorter than a 1275. I know auto power units have a longer dog bone. I have a drawer full of dog bones small bore and large I'll compare them. I'm also thinking the cross member recess profile is different between early and later cars. The HIF 44 single manifold and heat shield may cause a problem on small bore early cars. I have fitted a HIF 44 on a 1275 in a 63 sedan. The 30 degree manifolds are not real expensive. I have one that is surplus to my needs I'd part with. Someone has done some custom work on it but it's nothing that would affect it's use. I can provide a pic if interested.

Steve

I might take you on that offer for having the Mini Twin manifold. Send me an e-mail at

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:28PM
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CA

The dog bone I pulled off my "bone" ...pun intended.... stock 998 auto ( 1989 ) is the same length as my manual gearbox engined ones.

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:05PM
 Edited:  Nov 25, 2011 06:07PM
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All automatics (even the very earliest) have a longer dogbone than all the manuals. This was needed to clear the bigger auto diff housing. I think the dogbone is 3/4" longer.
You can use an auto dogbone to tip the motor forwards, unless it is a remote shift box (with the big alloy remote housing).
[edit] However it is easiest to fit a 30° Cooper etc twin HS2 manifold- there were many 30° aftermarket ones made also.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 04:28PM
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GB

The engine steady on Suzy's 1275GT, (and the S's that I've worked on) are all identical to the small bore cars, hence the query about the later cars - as far as I can see there is no difference between a standard 998 and a 1275 steady.

I know the engine was moved forward late 80s/early 90s to accomodate the HIF carb (not as erroneously believed to make room for the SPi kit) but I can't remember if there were any 998/HIF38 versions made.

It may be better to say you need a longer steady from a late-model car rather than 1275.

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:09AM
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US

Acouple of things to consider. Small bore power units are about 3/8 inch shorter than a 1275. I know auto power units have a longer dog bone. I have a drawer full of dog bones small bore and large I'll compare them. I'm also thinking the cross member recess profile is different between early and later cars. The HIF 44 single manifold and heat shield may cause a problem on small bore early cars. I have fitted a HIF 44 on a 1275 in a 63 sedan. The 30 degree manifolds are not real expensive. I have one that is surplus to my needs I'd part with. Someone has done some custom work on it but it's nothing that would affect it's use. I can provide a pic if interested.

Steve

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:07AM
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Alex, "I guess the later ones Ought to have a longer one to accomodate the engine being moved forward in the subframe".

EXACTLY....

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 05:41AM
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GB
Are the 1275 dogbones different to the 998s ?

I guess the later cars ought to have a longer one to accomodate the engine being moved forward in the subframe, but I've never seen them differentiated between.

 Posted: Nov 25, 2011 03:24AM
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I've been running a spridget twin HS2 carb setup with no issue for 5 years now. I didn't modify my bulkhead at all. I'd have to double check the exact manifold I have, but it isn't a mini one.

It doesn't take that long to test fit what you have. You can leave all the linkage and cables as they sit to test.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Nov 24, 2011 09:12PM
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The twin 1.25's will give more mid range torque on a small bore engine, the correct manifold is a 30 degree one as apposed to the Spridget one which is 20 degrees. You could install a 1275 dogbone (stabilizer) if you have the wrong manifold which will move the engine one inch further forward to help on the clearance issues, not the best solution but will work if you are on a budget.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 24, 2011 08:53PM
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US

Thanks my car has the 3-1 headers. I need to find a used twin Mini Manifold or buy a nice 1.5" single manifold. As far as performance which has a higher potential?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Nov 24, 2011 05:24PM
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As Hugh said, a midget manifold will require some work to fit.

An effective alternative (although without the street cred of the twins ) is to obtain an MGMetro alloy inlet and keep your HS4.  You can buy a suitable alloy inlet manifold from all the usual suspects that will provide the same performance but at a (much) greater cost.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Nov 24, 2011 03:39PM
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It will physically bolt up to your 1275 head regardless of whether it is Mini or Midget.  The only issue you have is that a Midget intake is straighter than a Mini and the bottoms of the carbs will hit the bulkhead and damage the choke assembly and possibly the needles.  The Mini intake is made with a steeper angle so they will clear.  Some people cut a portion of the bulkhead away and modify it so there is clearance.  Some folks (the cheesy bastards) simply beat the bejesus out of the bulkhead with a hammer and gain clearance.  Myself, I think the best solution is to get the carbs and linkage and try and source the correct intake for it.  JMHO.  Also, you will need a header of some type to go with it.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

 Posted: Nov 24, 2011 03:13PM
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US

My car is a 1098 CC mini with a 1.5" SU single carb. Now I found a used 1.25" Twin SU carbs. I am not sure if it was for a Mini or a Midget. Now asssuming it was for a 1275 Midget would this mount on my Mini and clear the bulk head? If not what do I need to do? I also noticed that there are so many inlet/outlet coming from the float bowl and there is also a Vacuum connection maybe this was for a brake booster. 

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*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

Found 78 Messages

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