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 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 08:03PM
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AU

The trick for corner weighting without scales was to wind the brake bias onto the rear and then lock the brakes on level ground, keep playing with the corner weigths till the rears both lock at the same time. 

It is rough and ready but it can point you in the right direction. I don't know if it means anything here but this was told to me by Ron Tauranac.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 01:18PM
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US

Yes, raising the left rear would take weight off both the left rear and right front though, and improve front/rear weight bias a bit, but I would investigate why there is such a discrepancy, which may give you a clue on which corner to start with.

Retired manufacturer of VTEC/Mini performance conversion kits

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 01:02PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAlexander

John, from your numbers, I can see a big improvement in shortening the trumpet on the left rear!  that would be a starting point, especially if you have a right hand driver, which also would explain the loose left hand corners, Left drive cars tend to get loose turning right, as mine does, even with near perfect corner weights. 

Thanks Steve. That gives me a starting point to work with. Raising the R/Frt would give similar results?

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 12:57PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by 61MiniMe

Starting weights and ending weights with driver:

LF - 754 575 RF - 298 478

LR - 173 357 RR - 530 346

Wow, and I was thinking my car was out of wack!

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 12:55PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by N. J.

Maybe if you had some weight data on "x" turns of adjustment resulting in "Y" #'s difference in the loading (weighting) and then attempted to extrapolate to get the numbers you're shooting for??

Some sort of general formula like this would be a great help.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 12:53PM
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US

This is starting out great already. Some good information is rolling in. Driver sits on the right side and is right around 215lbs (really I am). No sway bars front or rear. Single standard fuel tank at L/Rear.

This is a street driven Mini and I'm not hoping for spot on but when I noticed the numbers on the right side I feel there is room for improvement.

I just measured the ride height (should have done that earlier) and came up with:

LF - 20 1/4ins    RF - 20 1/8ins

LR - 20 1/4ins    RR - 20 1/4ins

This is the measurment from ground to fender at centerline of wheel. 

I understand working without scales is shooting in the dark. I think I will raise the R/Frt another 1/8in and see if that helps my "seat of the pants" feel. I guess my main goal at this point is getting the R/R to carry more of the load.

John

 

 

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 12:36PM
 Edited:  Mar 10, 2012 01:12PM
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John, from your numbers, I can see a big improvement in shortening the trumpet on the left rear!  that would be a starting point, especially if you have a right hand driver, which also would explain the loose left hand corners, Left drive cars tend to get loose turning right, as mine does, even with near perfect corner weights.

  Carl, it is interesting to see that your car has exactly the same front/rear distribution as mine, being 250 pounds lighter.  (66.6% front, 33.3% rear), while Johns car with the A series, is 62.5% / 37.5%, with a total weight nearly the same as my car.  I didn't realize the stock Mini was that much better.....Time for more carbon up front.

Retired manufacturer of VTEC/Mini performance conversion kits

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 11:22AM
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US

Had to take my 61 Vtec in for corner weighting because of the massive torque steer.

Starting weights and ending weights with driver:

LF - 754 575 RF - 298 478

LR - 173 357 RR - 530 346

As you can see the Mini wasn't really touching the ground in two kitty corners before corner weighting but after it was pretty well balanced. Plus I drive with a passenger quite often which equals out the weights even more.

The Mini racing shop that did the weighting had to adjust the suspension 7 times with 7 weighing to get to this point. It also set me back $600. Like CTR said everything changes everything and it can take all day.

In a 1600 lbs car with 176hp I can say the end result was well worth it!

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 11:20AM
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US

Corner weighting without scales? Interesting question! At least you have a starting point.

"Dialing in" can be a far-reaching term. As Steve notes, the driver (or equivalent weight) should be included in the corner weighting process. My car was done with a lighter body and a 50 pound sack of something to simulate me sitting there. I've seen stringing-up and "dialing in" a FF and a C S/R  on professional scales take the better part of a day, just as Steve notes.

Maybe if you had some weight data on "x" turns of adjustment resulting in "Y" #'s difference in the loading (weighting) and then attempted to extrapolate to get the numbers you're shooting for??

Or, taking some suspension measurements on flat and level pavement and comparing the differences in those  measurements to the differences in loading to develop some sort of relationship between them??

I dunno. I'll be interested in replies too.

N J

Sarcasm - Because beating the crap out of someone is illegal.

Avatar:  'B, bye Veruca. Luv ya.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 10:36AM
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Do we assume there is no driver in this car? If there were one where would he /she set? How much does driver weigh. How much fuel on board. With out a great deal of effort you won't get the rears equal. We shoot to get the front equal across and let the rears take care of them selves. Sway bars? We have a big day when setting the vintage car up. I have found someone height and weight of out of town driver. A buddy and I work on getting ride height, corner weight and camber/toe to all come together. Everything changes every thing. It can take all day. Substitute driver brings the sunday paper.

CTR 

 Posted: Mar 10, 2012 09:41AM
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US

Recently I had to opertunity to park the Mini on a set of scales owned by one of the big time auto magizines. The results left me scratching my head a little. I have noticed the Mini tends to feel loose on left hand turns at higher speeds. And I'm hoping by getting the corner weights dialed in the handling will improve. Now the problem is dailing in the corner weights without scales. Anyone have some tricks to share?

And here are the results:

LF - 372lbs     RF - 492lbs

LR - 328lbs     RR - 191lbs

Total weight was 1383lbs

The Mini is a 1964 Morris Cooper with S-racer coils and hi-lo's.

What sort of corner weights do the racers run?

Thanks,

John