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Hi
If you have a stock header it might be the cup style connection to the manifold that is loose under the two piece clamp,
try to hold the tube and move it up and down
regards
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The A+ engines had timing chain tensioners whereas the early pre 80's as Dr Mini said don't. The oil would not make a difference as long as it was 20/50. The single row chain will rattle for a long time and can be replaced with a duplex twin chain set up (with minor mods) or i have seen the later A+ ones installed (a bit more work), and of course you can just replace what you probably have with the same thing a single row chain. You did the right thing by raising the idle slightly as that in effect takes a little "slap" out of the chain and then it makes less noise.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If its the single row timing chain there's no need to panic, they rattle away virtually forever.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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Originally Posted by 77mini The minis rattle only happens at idle. When I push in the clutch its still there. Its never had a overheating issue. The temp gauge always stays at "N" during long drives.. ill have to look around and see where's its at.. where is the idle inlet control cable at? |
It's the air inlet control valve, and it's attached to the airbox inlet, then to a hose that draws warm air from around the header. Number 19 in the diagram at the right. Your 77 may still have it attached. If you do and your rattle sounds like a tin can vibration rattle, that might be it. Sounds as though everyone else suspects timing chain, but the uber simple stuff is good to rule out before you start panicking.
Pete
Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
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Timing chain is my bet. Most are single row, wear a lot eventually and then rattle on the cover. Later ones 1980> had a proper tensioner, early ones didn't.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Is the rattle after driving really hard? Having any overheating issues?
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rattle in neutrel?
Push in the clutch . does the rattle go away?
If yes then it might be the idler gears or the timing chain.
Change to Mobil One synthethic and see how many rattles go away.
Deb
Keith & Deb
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Weird rattle by the carb could be the air inlet contol valve. That tends to rattle at idle, but not at higher revs. I was advised to ditch mine. Hasn't hurt anything to have done so.
Pete
Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
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Noise's are some of the hardest things to track down. Anything that can move or vibrate will cause noise. Hood a bit loose, turn signal relay loose in it's mount, wiper motor or linkages, air filter housing.
"How can anything bigger be mini?"
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