Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 29, 2012 09:22PM | tchyfeeley71 | |
Aug 29, 2012 07:31PM | malsal | |
Aug 29, 2012 06:19PM | tchyfeeley71 | |
Aug 22, 2012 03:23PM | Dan Moffet | |
Aug 21, 2012 09:20PM | Spitz | |
Aug 21, 2012 07:35PM | tchyfeeley71 | |
Jul 27, 2012 04:20AM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Jul 27, 2012 04:20AM |
Jul 26, 2012 05:43PM | jedduh01 | |
Jul 26, 2012 05:23PM | tchyfeeley71 | |
Jul 26, 2012 04:14PM | Dan Moffet | |
Jul 26, 2012 03:26PM | tchyfeeley71 |
Total posts: 45
Last post: Nov 8, 2012 Member since:Oct 30, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
You don't have the fuel overflow line plugged off do you ?
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 45
Last post: Nov 8, 2012 Member since:Oct 30, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |

The needle is: BFY The carb is plugged off, not connected to the breather. I did make a small adjustment to the jet bridge position (the 2mm), but not sure it was enough to make a substantial change.
Total posts: 9830
Last post: May 9, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Spitz forgot to mention, the top of thejet should be about 2 to 3mm below the bridge as a starting point. As he suggests, the needle may be totally wrong for your application, so find out what the code is on it and post it.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 13996
Last post: Mar 31, 2025 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
|
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
![]() |
I would suggest pull the dashpot off.....have a look where the jet is in comparison to the bridge.
Also, while you have it off....pull the needle and confirm what it is ( letters at the very top once you remove it from the piston )
Post here what you find.
Also.....you do have the port on the carb either plugged off or connected to engine breather.....?
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
Total posts: 45
Last post: Nov 8, 2012 Member since:Oct 30, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
But from a cold start the engine wont stay running. It tries, but just sputters out. Even with full choke. Any other suggestions? I'm at a loss of how to get the right balance. Thanks again
Total posts: 9830
Last post: May 9, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
No, I don't know of a source for non-bimetallic lever. There are plans floating around (somebody may offer them up) on how to convert a bimetallic one. Essentially one needs to take it apart, duplicate the heat-sensitive part and rivet it back together. I worked from scratch as I didn't want to be left without it in case my cunning plan didn't work! It probably doesn't need to be stainless steel, but I had some scraps around and nothing better. Brass or aluminum would have been alot easier. The part doesn't move once adjusted, so wear is not an issue, but it does need to be stiff enough.
see part 16 at this page:
//www.minimania.com/catPage/6-15/6/15
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 1650
Last post: Oct 22, 2024 Member since:Apr 30, 2009
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Do you know if your timing is spot on correct?
Running hot and lean can also point to too Advanced Distubutor.
Total posts: 45
Last post: Nov 8, 2012 Member since:Oct 30, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 9830
Last post: May 9, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
One of the difficulties I have with a HIF is the issue of the bimetallic lever inside. It is supposed to lean out the engine as the carb is warmed up by the warmed-up engine. Because of where the mixture screw is, I'm not the quickest at getting adjustments made. With the bonnet up and the car not moving and getting a flow of fresh air, the heat from the header rises and continues to warm the carb, continuing the lean-out process. For me it was trying to chase a moving target. I solved that by duplicating the bimetal lever in stainless steel - a slow process with only hand tools. But it worked! Now tuning is simple - the old-fashioned way: adjust the mixture and correct the idle to suit. Repeat until satisfied.
I suspect you're having the same issue. Probably you're adjusting appropriately but the carb continues to readjust while you straighten up to adjust the rpm. When you do that, the engine is already too lean.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 45
Last post: Nov 8, 2012 Member since:Oct 30, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |

Does anyone else out there have a better process they're willing to share? thanks all, john