Red,
I'm going to take a close look at those.
Northern Tool doesn't seem to carry them anymore. But, I'm pretty sure I found the manufacturer:

//www.junglejimsap.com/displayItem.php?pkey=16

Goofy name for a company. But, there again, I drive a car called a Moke so who am I to judge?

Nicholas,
The wheel chocks don't seem to be very tall. Doesn't look like it would be all that tough to push over 'em. Besides, isn't that what come-alongs were made for?
 

Tire bonnets as it allows the car to ride on its own suspention and there are no tire chalks to have to push a dead car over when loading. I hade mine custom made when I first got into minis and have used them on over 30+ cars since

Fastrap. Combination wheel chock and tie down. Northern tool carries these or you can find them on Amazon. One on each wheel and a Kryptonite cable through the front subframe for a safety cable.

I built my trailer based on a FF single axle trailer design. I have the option of loading front or backwards. For short hauls I don't mind loading frontwards and having lots of tongue weight. For long hauls I load backwards and have 50 lbs positive. Cars that I trailer often I install old school seat belt mounts in the front and rear sub frame. I think they are 7/16 with a flat area with a hole for the belt to clip into. These will accept the screw closed chain links and you can attach load binders or chain from there to trailer. I like to use chain as it rarely fails. I'm not talking about dog chain. If the car does not have attachment points installed. I run chain over the lower control arms (the I beam one) and over the center portion of the rear sub frame. Using a long 3/8 grade 8 bolt and a couple of washers and ESN ( elastic stop nut) to draw the slack out of the chains. You don't want to pull the car in two. Pull up the hand brake ( which will not keep the car in place in a panic stop ) I trailer with car out of gear. I do not like to pull on the rear wheels. Some rear sub frames are not all that good, the leverage of the swing arms would allow you to bend the sub frame. We have trailered to Denver from the east coast to Texas, Fla. and Ohio more time than I can count. I love my trailer, my dad and a I built it in three days for $250. in materials so I could attend the 73 SCCA Solo 2 NE divisional run offs at the Glenn. Steve (CTR)

At the rear, I got weary of lacing an axle strap through the subframe so I had a work vendor cut me a couple of pieces of s.s. plate.

I have a 12' long trailer which leaves plenty of room to balance the car properly for tongue weight.
Since I'm using steel wheels, I don't have the option of lacing an axle strap through 'em.
At the front of the car, I have the factory sump guard. It makes a very sturdy place to hook for the tie downs.

 

 

Edited to add: Since I was asked off line about the stainless eye bolts, they are not intended as a tie down point. They're intended to be used just to winch the car and should be fine in tension. shear? not so much. There's a good sized moment arm working here and I don't think it would be nice for the subframe/front valance.

But, they do look nice huh? (As much bling as a Moke can handle)

I've towed Minis all over the world and my techniques are to put a strap thru each wheel and strap it down at all 4 corners.  I also load the Mini forward so that the tongue weight is more heavy towards the front.  I have found the trailer pulls better with a bit of heavier front bias than not.  Of course, I always use a single axle trailer so it may pull differently than a 2 axle trailer.  Still, strapping down by the wheels is best.

I too would like it to be easier.  I once lost a vintage motorcycle off of the trailer on the interstate from faulty tie down equipment.  I watched it happen in my side mirror and was helpless to stop in time.  A painful (and costly) experience to watch the bike going end over end down the interstate.  So, for me, nothing wrong with a bit of tie down exaggeration.  

Wow! Thanks Gary....

But I guess I was hoping for a simpler solution.

I made curved tire pocket stops from steel channel that bolt to the trailer bed that the rear Cooper tires (front of the trailer) set in.  For proper trailer tongue weight the Cooper is loaded on the trailer in reverse via some ramps.  The Cooper has a thick flat steel plate bolted to the rear crossmember (there is already two holes in the crossmember for bolting).  The flat steel plate is the same width (height) as the cross member.  There are large area washers (fender washers) behind (the front side) of the crossmenber before spring washers and nuts are applied.  The steel plate has one chain loop welded to it at its center, and is painted black so is nearly invisible.  A chain binder and a length of chain are the securing items to the trailer.  

At the rear of the trailer, a center hook provides a securing location for chains and binders to each of the Coopers front tow/tie down loops that are already on the car.

 

How do you guys who trailer a mini, STRAP THE CAR to the trailer? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Cheers!