Initial torque while rotating drum 21 ft lbs. Loosen spindle nut 175 degrees. Retorque to 17 inch lbs while rotating drum.

Australia trip sounds awesome. Lived near Melbourne for two years. Do you have the route for this year or link?  Found Echuca on Murray River north of Melbourne fascinating with working paddle boat steamers. Lots of steam engines there.  Also at Ballarat (nw of melbourne) gold fileds several working steam engines.

tsumini,

Can't tell you how the bearing set was 'mismastched' because the work was done by a Mini specialist shop after we left Australia.

What I know is all the bearings were serviced with new at the rear on both sides and one new tapered set up front to replace the new ball bearing set we installed on the roadside running north on the Gore Hwy. to Toowoomba (on Day 68 of 70 day trip around Australia)  Shop said easier to set load on the tapered bearings at front, so ball bearing set will go into spares for travel to Tasmania later this year.

Rick/Hunter2

The Timken tapered roller kits were assembled with 2x cups and 2x cones and a spacer. The cups and cones were std Timken industrial bearings, the spacer width was selected by Timken to match the web thickness in a Mini hub. So far, so good.. this went on for many years and we were mostly happy chappies.

Fast forward a bit, we now find othe suppliers making/selling roller bearing `kits' with the wrong width spacer inside. Can be either too wide (gives slack assembly) or too narrow (too much preload, damages the bearings by brinelling them). I have fixed this in the past by either machining the spacer or fitting a wider one (I made new if needed)

At about the same time? Timken started selling rear wheel bearing kits (I have some in Unipart boxes) with NO spacer. They just added 1/2 the spacer width to each bearing inner journal. Unhappily, they are often too tight when assembled and torqued up. And unlike before, we cannot swap an inner spacer (or even machine a wider one) because there is no room for it. The best you can do is fit a shim in between, or do what the rest of us do- back the nut off a little and pin it. I see nothing wrong with this approach, it is a free hub and no torque gets transmitted through it like the fronts.
Millions of Ford, Chevy and Mopar front hubs haven't failed using this adjustment method...

I'm curious, what was mismatched about the bearing set? cone angle? Typically one would buy the cone(inner) and the cup (outer) separately so aren't matched individually. 

 Some brands of rear tapered bearings sold now do not have the correct size spacers. Fitting needs to be done as per charrisons instructions. They will work fine if fitted in this manner.

They should take the 60 lb. ft., but I've run into several sets of the late style (the ones without the separate center spacer but with the "1/2" spacer built into each inner race) that start binding long before one even gets to the torque wrench stage. I've had to shim them.

Have always used Timken tapered roller bearings in the rear.  Torque them to spec no problems over thousands and thousands of miles, so, as Cupcake suggests you have an issue.

Drove 17,000 miles around Australia and one rear hub was a little loose at the finish.  Problem, mismatched bearing set.

Torque to spec. If it binds then something is wrong with the spacer  thickness.

NEVER torque them up to anything like 60 Lbft - you may indent the roller surfaces.

That figure in your book is referring to ball bearing races.

Just do roller bearings up hand tight, whilst rotating the wheel, until all play is gone, then back them off until play is just detected. 

Don't overfill with grease either, roller bearings sweep more grease around creating heat.

As said, check after a drive that they're not running hot.

I swapped the rear on mine to rollers.

What I found was.....If I torqued up to spec ( 60lbs ? ) the wheel wouldn't even turn.
I have forgotten what the final torque was....but was no where near 60lb.  I checked them after a number of miles and all was good.

Found anwser here...

Just replaced rear bearings with tapered bearings and ready to torque the wheel nut.

Wheel bearings I have worked with on other cars you tighen till snug and then back off a little until the cotter pin fits. But on the mini I really have to torque the nut tight like it says in the manual?