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 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 09:14AM
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US
No humor failure here. Your posts were intentionally rude and belittling. And I don't care what your degree is in. You don't know what my Masters is in. . I was using mine to qualify my intelligence to you since you obviously felt the need to question it.  If you had just posted your experience and information in the first place, we wouldn't even have had a problem. Your choice was to be rude, not mine.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

Someone's had a sense of humour failure...

Does a degree in Nuclear Engineering trump a business one ?

 

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 08:30AM
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From what I can figure if you buy the pedal assembly and the disc and caliper kits you will have a ton of brakes. I machined up a kit with 10 inch diisc and Wilwood 4 pot calipers and with slicks on 13x7 it would unload the rear suspension. Ended up with a 1 inch Wilwood master running a single line system with adjustable bias valve. I used the std. mini pedal assembly and mounted the cyl standing up. I still used the std rear brakes with super fins. That would be the cheapest way to super brakes.

For my personal car soon to be the son's I went with the LHD late master/booster combo with the cross over tube. My plan is to return to 10s when I have the money. It looks like you already run 13s so you should have no problem. Thanks what I think. Steve  

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 08:17AM
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GB

Someone's had a sense of humour failure...

I've driven a lot of Minis over the years, with a wide variety of brakes fitted, and genuinely prefer not to have a servo - none of my cars has one fitted and I can easily lock the wheels, especially on the one with the 4-pots or drums.  With the ability to modulate the brakes being easier without a servo, I see fitting one as not neccessary as long as your right leg is not withered.
Removing the servo altogether and fitting a yellowband master cylinder in its place to retain the split braking system is another option for you to consider.

Does a degree in Nuclear Engineering trump a business one ?

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 07:56AM
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I believe that kit can still be used on a normal Classic mini, as I believe the vtec kits use the mini hubs and spindles.  With the remote reservoirs, you should be able to fit these easy.

 

However, this is just a pedal kit, not a brake kit.  It appears the vtec brake kit is make for 13" wheels, which not all people want to use.

 

If you truly want to just have a less obtrusive booster, convert to a single line MC, use the remote booster located where ever you want, and if needed, but a biasing valve between front and back so you can adjust the rear brake pressure

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 07:20AM
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US

This Kit is only for VTEC minis... so it doesn't apply.

 

Am I missing something here, because this is the only kit I se referenced.

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 07:06AM
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US

Thanks for the sarcastic post, Alex. I appreciate all the help.

Notice how the sarcasm wasn't helpful to either one of us? Interesting... maybe we can try this again.

 

Hi, I'm Cameron. I'm 25 and I use Google (a more thorough version) as a tool in my job every day. I am an officer in the US Air Force, and I have a Bachelors in business, a math minor, and I'm currently working on my masters. I am very helpful to many people when I know the answer and humbly step aside when I don't know the answer.

I do plenty of due diligence before asking any questions. This is a trait you pick up when you spend your days briefing Colonels and Generals all day.

 

Now... I've searched for numerous things relating to the Wilwood kit, and all I get are general parts or kits related to the new MINI. None of them are a specific kit for a classic mini that was mentioned before. And seeing as someone in this thread seemed to have more knowledge than I do and had cited it specifically, it is more efficient to ask for details from the apparent Subject Matter Expert (SME) than to waste time searching from the beginning arbitrarily.

 

So Alex, while I appreciate what you sometimes contribute to the community, you have posted two wasteful and pointless posts in my thread now that have offered nothing but insinuations that I'm incompetent and lazy. Please refrain from posting if you don't have anything to offer.

 

 Posted: Mar 3, 2013 02:04AM
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GB

A very simple Google of "Wilwood brakes" revealed that wilwood.com would be the best place to purchase Wilwood brakes from.

 Posted: Mar 2, 2013 05:18PM
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US

And where would one find said Wilwood system?

 Posted: Mar 2, 2013 07:51AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

Quote from Norman @ Mini Tec when comparing aftermarket unboosted to stock boosted.."if you want to stop faster....push harder!" At which point he nearly put me into the windscreen demonstrating the 9.5" vented, unboosted Wilwood system. We may have done a "stoppie"!

N J

Sarcasm - Because beating the crap out of someone is illegal.

Avatar:  'B, bye Veruca. Luv ya.

 Posted: Mar 2, 2013 12:57AM
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GB
 Posted: Mar 1, 2013 04:49AM
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US

I have removed and rebuilt several of the late all in one master/booster systems. After bead blasting and painting all the bits they look nice. Installing a rebuild kit in the booster is a bear. So far I have not found a master that would rebuild without a sleeve being installed. Off the top of my head two way shipping and a sleeve runs around $120. Then the kit is around $50. So far I have been buying new masters as that's the best deal. Even is I send off several to reduce shipping it would not be cost effective. A recent thread about cad/ zinc plating would be a good place to look for booster finish. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Feb 28, 2013 06:00PM
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US

Kevin, thats what i thought. Hmm... Might just have to keep it and try to make it look good

 Posted: Feb 28, 2013 04:04PM
 Edited:  Feb 28, 2013 04:05PM
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These guys are talking about the earlier Minis (pre-Rover) the 7.5" disk versions of which had a remote booster. Either a Lockheed (UK cars) or a PBR VH44J (Australian Cooper S, 1969-71 & Clubman GT, 1971-73).

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Feb 28, 2013 03:24PM
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US

I'm just wondering how this works with the linkage? I mean, I have a large 80's dual line booster. It's hooked up directly to the brake with a bracket system... how would you move it? I'd have to custom fabricate brackets and linkage.. seems extremely involved.

 Posted: Feb 27, 2013 09:33PM
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The plan for the turbo Van I should be starting on sooooon will be having it under the passenger side dash like Malcolm said....

 

 Posted: Feb 27, 2013 09:28PM
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I had a van years ago (70's) and bought it from a guy that worked at Girling brakes. He mounted his aftermarket servo under the load bed behind the passenger seat and it worked fine, i guess it could be mounted the same under the rear seat of a saloon. I have also seen one mounted under the passenger dash rail in a saloon.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 27, 2013 09:10PM
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Sorry... the car is a Mk3+ with 8.4 discs. I don't want to lose braking power.

 Posted: Feb 27, 2013 08:59PM
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US

What are my options here? I'm looking to get it a little less... intrusive.  So What kind of options are available Smaller bracket? Relocating kit? Modern kit that doesn't have all the size?

 

I'm not committed to getting rid of it. Just wondering what the options are.