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 Drive Flange w/drum brakes

 Created by: TronVader
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 05:35PM
 Edited:  Jun 9, 2013 05:36PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air2air

I think it's a good opportunity to consider the disk upgrade.  I'm swapping out my 7" drive units for the S brakes because the 7" disks are definitely unsafe on the freeway...can't imagine what the drums must be like.

Drums are just fine and work very well when kept in order.  They're more efficient than the 997 discs

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 05:01PM
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You cannot just beat on that bearing race, it is sitting against a center web inside the swivel hub..
You need to either press on the inner end of the drive flange shown, or else use a slide hammer to pull it out of the bearings, from the flange side.

 

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 04:54PM
 Edited:  Jun 9, 2013 05:05PM
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Can we presume his bearings should be swapped anyhow, and to go ahead and beat on the races?  Will the resulting hub scoring be a big deal?

I think it's a good opportunity to consider the disk upgrade.  I'm swapping out my 7" drive units for the S brakes because the 7" disks are definitely unsafe on the freeway...can't imagine what the drums must be like.

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 03:32PM
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Beware, the drive flange is soft steel, if you belt the daylights out of it from the inside it will spread in diameter make harder to remove.
It has probably picked up inside the bearings-  I'd go find someone with a hydraulic press...

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 02:10PM
mur
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Why not just pound the stud out, fit a new one, and be done with it?  

 

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 02:05PM
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CA


Are you striking the inner bearing race...or the drive flange?

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 02:03PM
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US

Drive flange should tap out unless you have spun a wheel bearing

 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 01:11PM
 Edited:  Jun 9, 2013 01:13PM
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 Posted: Jun 9, 2013 01:02PM
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So I had a wheel stud sheer off after having new tires put on. I have removed the wheel, and the hub... but I can not get the drive flange out. The Haynes manual is very vague on how to do this, and can find almost nothing online, and no diagrams. I have tried knocking it out from the backside, but it doesn't seem to move. Is there something that I am missing that would keep it from coming out? Is there some kind of lock ring that has to be removed from the backside?