Or use the redundant UK rear fog light switch to power the fuel pump.

If you have a newer car with rear window defrost, wire the electric fuel pump circuit through the switch, so the rear defrost must be on the power the pump and the wiring is already there.

Bruce.

I usually put in a switch to the fuel pump and to the battery, but on my last car, neither is practical based on a mechanical fuel pump and the battery right next to the engine.  I will re-think the points to ground and try that.  

The mini will be easier because of a electric fuel and battery in the boot. 

Jerry

The wiring I described for my switch was not "in the coil wiring". When I install a kill switch it parallels the points and provides a path to ground when closed. When you install the switch in the circuit as a series component, it must carry/pass current all the time the engine is running. A series wired switch must also deal with higher inrush current as the coil charges.  When the switch is wired in parallel to the points and provides a ground path it only carries current when you do not want the engine to start or run and the switch does not have to deal with inrush currents.

For a "normal" coil, the maximum current flowing through the circuit will be a bit over 4 Amps with the points closed and engine not running.  It will be close to 5 Amps with the engine running (plus inrush current spikes). Switch ratings are typically specified for AC applications, not DC. When you use the switch with DC current it needs to be rated a bit higher. That's why I suggested a switch rated for 10 Amps (or more). A small switch (like one rated for 3 Amps) will work for a while but the contacts will burn and are likely to weld shut. Try a 10 Amp or larger switch wired in parallel to the points and your kill switch will work well.  Wire it in series and you are likely to have problems at some point.

Doug, 

I installed one just like you described in the coil wire and it burned out the switch.  So that is why I was wondering if the relay would take the power transfer better.  

Jerry

Sorry, the video is too long for me to patiently listen to it.

I have kill switches on all my British cars.  They are simple to make and install.  Connect a 16 AWG wire from coil (-) and run it to a concealed switch rated for 10 Amps.  Connect the other side of the switch to ground.  If you have a tachometer installed in your car (Smiths RVC or modern type) then you already have a wire on coil (-), all you need to do is splice into that wire for your switch connection.

Whenever the switch is "closed" the ignition system will not be able to produce a spark. 

Valid URL here

I would not recommend it at all.  Seems the switch burned out the link.

link not working

WWW.youtube.com/watch?V=DOTDt0eKZYM

Ignition cut off switch wiring.  Looks very interesting.  Anyone using something like this on an old car? I tried just a kill switch in the coil line but it fried the switch, this may work better.  

Jerry