The parts looks very nice; I haven't tried it myself, but learned of the technique some years ago while conversing with KC who'd just returned from a trip 'down under' visiting Graham Russel. 

I should find out if they sell molasses over here, there's probably something rusty somewhere on my mini...

Snap of the Cooper 3 into 1 header that I left in the bath while gone from June 20-July 16...rust gone fropm the end that sat in the bottom of the evaporating bath.

Will post a photo after the manifold gets back into a full bath once the head and cones are done

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Took 12G940 head out today for a thorough rinse, inspection and...put back in the bath as some of the smaller passageways still had a bit of rust...added another gallon of warm water to dilute the mix a bit to help out.

Also pulled the trailing arm brackets, cleaned up around the welds and put them back in for finish.

One set of trumpets just about ready...the 2 that went in yesterday need more time....

Molasses & water will go after rust (and aluminum) so I can't think why it could not be used on any rusty bits. note - will no touch paint or petroleum products so paint strip & degrease before rust bath.

In fact, I will toss the early welded steel trumpets from the LWB in the tub for some one who wants original parts for a resto.

I have been playing with vinegar. I have an old water pump and I turn an upper hose up and tape the surface with clear packing tape. Fill with vinegar and leave several days. 

I don't know what the machine shops where you live use. I started working at a machine shop in 1975. At that time we were cleaning with caustic soda and it would eat holes in your clothes and you as well. It would remove paint and grease but would not touch rust. People called it acid dip but it was not. Over the years the government decided we needed protecting and the cleaners became weaker and weaker. In the end all we had was a strong soap and very hot high pressure spray tanks. Now it will not touch paint. Steve (CTR)

Is there are reason why a set of brake calipers couldn't be cleanded up with this method?

Jack

Added 2 Dunlop/Moulton cones from a 1962 Morris Woody to the molasses and water bath...they were on welded steel rear trumpets.  Interesting they are taller than any other good used cones I have.

Oh and a crank damper...

Will update with photos after the "bathing" is done!

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Molasses $7.99 per 4-litre jug.  Warm water to start/mix/dilute...almost free.  Plastic feed/water bin from farmers co-op $19 (??).

Photos show set-up.  Will post photos of cleaned bits in a few days.

Why do this...$246 to mag, boil & chemically strip one 1275 block and two heads...and the head I want for the 1293 build was taken back because it was still rusty in passageways.  Still had rust after 2nd (free) acid bath at machine shop...

So, I opted to clean out the feed/water bin (already to hand), buy some molasses at the co-op and get it on.

Left a Cooper 3 into 1 exhaust manifold in the last mix for the whole month I was gone to MMEMW.  One problem - water evaporates so while some of exhaust bare steel, the other end still has rust.  Will add more molasses & water after head, cones & brackets come out and finish the manifold.

I have a 997 brake rotor and hub in there right now, it was a flakey, rusty mess, we will see how it fares...

Also, I heard the mix was 10:1 water to molasses, so that is what I used, am interested in Hunter2's results.

I may try some vinegar as well.

and after a week

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I remembered to look!

This was the stuff before:

Consensus here in Oz is that molasses works, but vinegar (acetic acid) works much faster.

I did a 1275 block and head with 1:3 molasses mix 2 years ago, it took over 2 weeks to eat all the flaky rust in the water jacket of the block.
I stood the motor in a tub with the water pump hole at top, filled it up, and every 5 days I tipped it out, hosed it and refilled. In between I stirred the muck with a pushrod.
[edit] The tub mentioned was not full of molasses, it was just there to keep the garage floor clean.

Rick, I am doing the same thing, just pulled some rusty head studs out last week and with a quick rub from a scotchbrite, they were good as (almost) new!

I have a bunch of other misc stuff in there at the moment, perhaps if I remember, I will dive into the bucket after work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCFcxf5IBw - just need a bucket large enough for a Mini

Funny, I have a radiator bracket, and some thermostat housing bolts and washers soaking in molasses and water right now, on my kitchen counter.  Anyone know why molasses works on rust?   

Add a bit of yeast and a still.....

Also good for the garden,brings good bugs.

This post / process needs pictures. WHat are you starting with - what is the expected final outcome?

1 part molasses to 3 parts water in a plastic feed tray from the farmers co-op...with one good 12G940 head, two good used rubber cones and 2 used rear trailing arm outer brackets for derusting bath.

Will take out in 2 more days, hose off & inspects.  Repeat if necessary.

All paint, grease etc. removed before rust bath.

Head to go on 1293cc build with new guides, hardened exhaust valve seats.  Rubber cones to be painted to go in ROO since the new Valley Rubber units collapsed on the wandering to Ohio.  Trailing arm brackets to be painted for parts bin.