Ok, next newbie issue...

Before torquing the head down I backed off all the rocker adjuster screws (to allow even torque down of head).   But now I can't seem to wrap my brain around how I figure out how much to tighten the adjusters back down to begin setting valve clearances as I don't know which valves should be open or closed.

If it helps I'm pretty sure I've got #1 cylinder @ TDC as the timing cover mark is at 0 & the distributor rotor is at the #1 plug lead.

Just think about: The head gets a lot hotter than the block. The black stuff will bake to the head. Therefore, I install it with the black surface facing the block and the metal surface facing the head 

But anyhow, I personally prefer the copper head gasket: //www.minimania.com/part/GUG702506HG/Head-Gasket-Small-Bore-850-998-1100cc-Original-Copper

Never had one fail provided... and it is copper faced on both sides.

There is also a high performance head gasket availlable for small bore engines: //www.minimania.com/part/C-AEA647/High-Performance-Head-Gasket-850-998-1098cc

This one is black on both sides and marked "TOP" with additional sealing compound around oil and water gallery bores. But I don´t have personal experience with it.

Cheers, Diddi

Most head gaskets of that design have the flat face down, and the compression seal bead upwards.

Anybody else have any input?  I'd like to button this up but would prefer to install the gasket the recommended way (the first time).

Well hmmm... I would have thought black goes up but only because that's the way they are typically pictured online.  It's a Lucas gasket if that makes a difference.

The old one is a "Coopers Gasket" stamped 2G293 which had copper up & looks like steel facing down.

I could very well be wrong, but I don't think the black side goes down. Don't have one in hand and have already run to the shop twice today. I'm sure it it will be fine either way. Steve (CTR)

I would have lost that bet (black side towards block).  Another glad I asked moment!

Block deck around studs looks good.

Is this clean enough?

Black side facing the block.

No preparation except for absolute cleanlyness.

Did you check the area arond the stud threads?

This area often gets "pulled up" leaving a "volcany shape" preventing the head to fully compress the gasket = next gasket failure is in the pipeline...

A good practice is, to countersink all the head stud thread bores to about 3mm / 1/8" larger than the thread diameter! This usually removes any high spots a the stud threads 

Cheers, Diddi

Image Gallery

I'm in the middle of the head gasket swap & am just about ready to install the new gasket.  The new gasket doesn't have marks for Top or Front.  Front is easy to figure out, but which side goes up?  The black or steel side?

Also do I need to prep the gasket (either side) in any way?

Thanks gentlemen.

Yes, all studs (coarse thread) going into the block hand tight.

Excellent, glad I asked.

Same process for the rocker pedestal studs?  The two studs that the rocker cover bolts to came out of the head.

While you have the studs out of the block check to see if the block is level especially around where the stud holes are.

Install head studs into the block hand tight...NO TOOLS!

I started tearing into this tonight.  My first experience removing a head.  So far so good except the majority of the head studs came out of the block with the nuts still attached.  I've removed the nuts from the studs and cleaned up the threads so they won't bind when reassembling.

What is the process for installing the head studs back into the block?  Double nut the stud and snug it into the block or is there a certain torque value I should be after?

Thanks.

Does a Payen brand copper head gasket have to be annealed before use?

Head gasket set $22. Costly but I believe worth it.

It may be sensible to do more than just the head gasket at this time. The head gasket set will come with new rubber o ring valve stem seals, you can lap the valves in and replace those seals at a minimum, or you could have the head rebuilt. You could replace the water pump quite easily now. I find they last thirty to fifty thousand miles. If your car is rod change with a one piece rad shroud and no inner fender shroud then changing the water pump is easy, so no need to do that now. The bypass hose should be replaced. If you have been thinking about changing the cam or timing gears, or addressing other leaks, maybe pull the power unit to do this stuff.

They have a new black composite a little costly but I believe worth it. I have used several so far and try to keep one on hand. Steve (CTR)

Thanks for replies.  What's the preferred head gasket for a stock 998?  Composite or copper?

MUR is right that the oil feed to the rockers is quite close to the outside of the head and block.

On the 1380 the oil was actually leaking out the manifold stud closest to the radiator...literally bleeding out via the threads with the manifold bolted securely.  In that case thread sealant on cleaned stud and head threads and left to set overnight solved the issue.

A Payen gasket with the o-ring for the oil feed solved any issues from that source.

The oil supply to the rocker assembly is right there and yours appears to leak. The 5/16" stud that came up when you removed the valve cover should make no difference, note the torque spec for those is far less than the 3/8" studs that fasten the head to the block. Consult your manual.

In any case, you should get a new small bore head gasket and change it.

the nanny advisors will want you to rebuild your head, resurface the block, the head, your cheekbones and your tongue. They will offer insight to incredible head gasket rituals. I frequently re use functioning small bore head gaskets without issue. Good luck.