I was able to complete the machine work on an oilite bushing. Got a proper press fit in the rack housing. The snap ring should pop right back in place. Once assembled and aligned it should be a very slick result. I will install it in my car for testing. I have saved all the racks I have replaced over the years. I'd like to sort by style and strip them all and see how many I can rebuild. 

Same thing with the front upper and rear swing arms. I'm rebuilding a set of wet rears for a dry application. Went though three sets to find a rebuildable set. Steve (CTR)

I have a real late model rack with a bad off side bush. I'm machining an oilite bronze bush. The plastic one was held by a snap ring. The replacement ones I bought were no where near right size. Will take some pictures. Steve (CTR) 

Thanks Spank.

Ive done this several times. Just did it again about 4 weeks ago using the linked part (instead of a piece of delrin turned by my friend, AJ, on his mini-lathe).

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/107885/1/1/Steering_rack_repair

I can't find the picture I took years ago-- it's somewhere on the web, but not sure where-- but it shows how I put in the 2 or 3 long (like 2-3" long) fence or drywall screws down between the sliding rack and the bushing. I crank the wheel so the rack is almost all the way in at that side, put in the screws so they bite a little into the sliding shaft and also the bushing, then I turn the steering wheel so it pulls the screws out along with the bushing. You'll see that the fixed part of the steering rack is fluted, and you want to put the screws in at the flute area. It may take more than 1 attempt. And after you get the bushing out (don't forget to remove the short pillips set screw that holds the metal collar of that bushing in before you turn the wheel!!) you will have to take a file and some sand paper and get any burs off of the sliding shaft created by the screws. It's inevitable using this method so don't fret over it.

A small pipe wrench is your friend for turning off the domed collar. Also, you will likely need to find where there is a aluminum pin drilled and punched into place on that collar. Just take a small drill bit and drill it out. You can force it to break with the pipe wrench if you forget about it (aske me how i know). Sometimes it's inacessible from beneath the car.

Part number 37H8064 doesn't seem to be NLA since it is sold here by our hosts and also by others. 

I have the same issue and have lived with a clunking from the off side for years.  Interested in hearing from anyone who has replaced this as well.

I've heard of (but never seen) people putting self tap screws into the steel end of the bush, then pulling it out with a slide hammer.
I have rebuilt hundreds of racks over the years, some had the bush in so tight that I couldn't hammer it out with a drift, when stripped. So good luck with self tappers!

Drop the rack out and do it up properly. IF you can still buy parts...! Bearings are now NLA world wide, ditto the tie rod repair kits for a Mk2-on rack.

I have a LHD 68 MK2 S and need to replace the passenger side bushing on the steering rack. I've heard that this can be done without removing the rack or dropping the subframe. Does anyone have experience with this proceedure? Were special tools required?