Wow. Let me catch up.

It's a 1964 1275 Cooper S with dry suspension.

The brake booster was moved inside a long time ago.

The carbs were super cleaned by an expert on the mainland and haven't had two gallons of fuel ran through them. We did have problems with too much fuel pressure when we first fitted the Facet pump but put an adjustable regulator up in the engine compartment.

I'm returning the plastic bodied fuel filter because I just a bit concerned about broken stuff and gasoline leaked all over the boot. I like the glass filter systems too but we're back to the ghost of broken fuel parts in the boot. I play with small tractors and the glass bowels will also show you water in the fuel. Better to find it there rather than on a steep slope with an unconscious machine.

The rear wiper was easy. The triple front wiper whipped me and I went to a dual speed twin wiper with parking.

A couple of ideas that have come to me are A. neopreme wetsuit and II. bubblewrap. I'm concerned about heat though. I'd just lay it back there maybe zip tied to the battery anchor. I've mounted a few items with sections of garden hose and zip ties as well. I'll have a better idea of the limitations or hazards once the engine has ran for an hour or two and see if it's warm to the touch. It did go some 5000 miles just laying back there stuck in an inner tube.

Your picture shows an aftermarket Facet type pump.  They will be noisy, particularly when mounted on a flat metal panel.  The factory location for an electric pump is on the rear subframe below the LH fuel tank.  Some people mount the Facet pump there.  Some also adapt the "cotton reel" type exhaust pipe mounting isolators to keep the pump from being so noisy.

I have never used the metal filters supplied with the Facet pumps.  I have had good luck using the glass/metal filters available from the "bling" section of the local parts store.  Those filters use a replaceable plastic mesh screen to keep dirt out of the pump.  The glass body lets you see how much crud is in the filter so you know when to change the element.

As you work through replacing the hoses, I suggest you also check and see what pressure the fuel is AT the carbs.  Facet sells pumps in many pressure ranges.  The previous owner who installed the pump in your car may or may not have chosen the right one.  You want the pressure at the carbs to be close to 3 PSI at the MAX.

The fuel hoses up front seem pretty good for being 53 years old but the ones back in the boot are looking rough and very rigid. except the one that was melting with a bit of a weep. So new hoses back there from NAPA. The fuel pump already had a filter which I can softly blow air through it so I've just reassembled it but now we have a new opportunity. The fuel pump has been resting in an inner tube over the years but I can hear it 20 feet away. So I'm wondering how I'm going to mount this little guy and quiet it down? Any quite pump recommendations?

HEY LOOK! A rear wiper.

My car sat for 20 years then ran with new plastic and rubber pieces. I have faith.

note of caution, don't get that gearbox overfilled with oil as it can spill over onto the clutch as I recall.

Lowgear, if the car sat for a decade and coughed when you dribbled fuel in the carb throats, anticipate more to cleaning the fuel system than just the tanks.  Expect to have to thoroughly clean (if not rebuild) the carbs.  They will almost certainly be gummed up with fuel varnish. The deposits tend to collect in the float valves, in the float bowls, and in the metering jet/needle.  All will benefit from a good cleaning. 

No Dan....wont be doing that again...lol...what a schmuck

Is this a Cooper S or Cooper with S engine?

I noticed no brake booster and the control box/regulator on the inner wing

Hi Dan, You're most correct about a good thorough cleaning. I had the tanks out 10+ years ago and coated the insides with that paint that you slide around and let pour out with the left behind forming some sort of epoxy finish. One of those stinkers is just a click or two tricky getting back in and looking all warm and fuzzy. This is where we fall into three part a cappella with something about who designed the drop down boot lid or their mother. Today is a drain and visual inspection.

The left tank isn't hard to pull once it is empty, and I imagine the right one is about the same. You'll want to give them a good flush and inspection, especially the hose connections and vent tubes. Assuming it has an electric pump, you'd probably want to remove and clean it too. Blowing the line with compressed air might destroy a fuel pump.

Perhaps the two tanks was a North America standard even though this car was purchased in 1975 from a small garage in Surrey, England. Most, if not all the true "S" models up through 1967 had twin fuel tanks. That has been my experience in the Pacific Northwest.

I'm thinking just a $6 throw away every couple of years plastic fuel filter right after the Tee where the twin tank lines come together. I'm hoping I can get them cleaned out without pulling them. One side or the other can challenge a persons religious commitments to good and proper English.

Wow! Its got 2 gas tank???  That must be a racing mini back in the days, maybe raced in montecarlo/ cul de turini, what's the history of that mini? Do you know?

i speak good engrish! But my accent is horrible! Lol

Update 9-30-2017

The rocker assembly looked so good I just trickled some oil on everything with a straw and my cheeks. With the new battery I expected it to jump right up but I had to rock it back and forth in 4th a couple of times (***Pun Alert*** This is what we profanely call "Not The Best Start"). No plugs in and it spun up oil pressure in about 10 seconds. Plugs in and no cough or choke. Half a straw of gas in each SU and I got a cough. Hence no fuel - The next adventure.

Siphon the tank out. Do some compressed air. Install a filter (suggestions ?) and Sir Robert should be your mother's brother.

....that's when the common sense comes into play... but dang i should've said to pour few amount of oil on the rocker, not 4.5 liter, seeesh, i hate myself now....aaanyway! 

Specialist didn't specify a rate of flow, so naturally one would assume a prudent pour, not a dump of the whole jug in/on/over everything. But how can you be sure it got to all the rockers? Betcha won't do that again!

If you decide to be a sensible person, it means that you get to utilize the things in your backyard before you even buy a new part, i hear yah, we are the same sir casey.  Well as far as your radiator hose is concerned, theres no way out, you gotta buy a new one, take the old cracked one off and bring it to autozone or Oreilly, they must carry one of same size and bore. Get a new hose clamp too

You're not going to believe this but the radiator hoses are looking a bit cracked and kinda hard. So there's good, better and, I assume, best on the sites. Regular rubber, kevlar rubber and silicon. And even red silicon - I will be a sensible person! I will be a sensible person! I will be a sensible person! The car is red and the battery top is red.

Trust me Dan....when you pour a 4.5 litre jug of oil in....every thing under the rocker cover gets covered in oil.....also the outside when you pour it in too quickly...lol

I found two of the survey photos.

Hi Dan, I can see your argument but remind you that in this procedure the cover is removed and oil is applied to all moving parts including the push rods and lifters. Inspecting the valve rocker assembly might just be a good idea whether any oil is spilled or not and since I'd already be there a few ounces of oil shouldn't hurt.

Pouring oil into the top of the engine will do almost nothing to lube valves and rockers. Oil added through the filler runs straight down into the top of the head, then down pushrod holes etc and on into the sump/transmission case. It might hit one or two rockers right below the filler hole, but the rest of the rockers, rocker shaft, pushrod tops, valves and springs won't be affected. The top of the engine is lubed by the pressurized oil system, which is why you need to achieve oil pressure before starting the engine.