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 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 05:51PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford
Dan  - thanks for the clarification, I only got one out of two correct. 

the rule means that the “theoretical loose pad” has “been dragged” on the upper shoe  forward (clockwise) in the direction of travel of the drum on the Right side, so yes,  photo looks good

good thing I did not try to tackle anti-clockwise terminology. 

Harvey

Ian want to chime back in ? 
Glad we all agree.....  maybe its the semantics of "leading edge" that's the problem... 

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 02:35PM
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Dan  - thanks for the clarification, I only got one out of two correct. 

the rule means that the “theoretical loose pad” has “been dragged” on the upper shoe  forward (clockwise) in the direction of travel of the drum on the Right side, so yes,  photo looks good

good thing I did not try to tackle anti-clockwise terminology. 

Harvey

Ian want to chime back in ? 

 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 01:00PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford
Quote:
Originally Posted by charrison
Perhaps we're getting hung up on the leading/trailing stuff.  Not the best picture, but its the best I could find.

RH front twin LS drum brakes. The gap in the friction material next to the slave cyl.

I thought the "rule" was that the shoe material should "look like it had slid backwards on the shoe from the rotation when moving forward." 
 
If so, this RHD rotating clockwise would have "slid" the  shoe material in the opposite direction you have these installed. You have the gap on the trailing edge near the brake cylinder.  By the "rule" , it should be on the leading edge.

This is what 1963SV2 said.
Harvey, your 'rule' is correct and so is the photo here. Even the HAyne's manual agrees, though its photos are terrible (also showing a right front wheel from a different angle.
As I understand it, with twin-leading shoes, when the brake lining comes in contact with the drum, the friction tends to pull (grab) the lining, thereby assisting the force applied by the cylinder.  Perhaps the section of shoe without lining adds a bit of leverage to the equation.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 12:45PM
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US
The photo is of a right front wheel (the way the slave is pointed and the location of the adjuster confirms it) and the shoes are correct. 

Think of both the front and rear brakes as having the friction material pushed forward by the drum as the car moves forward.

 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 11:11AM
 Edited:  Sep 15, 2018 11:32AM
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Its not my picture, simply one I found on the net.

But it does "look like the friction material has slid (backwards??) on the shoe from the rotation when moving forward." 

Just trying to help really.

Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

 Posted: Sep 14, 2018 05:24AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charrison
Perhaps we're getting hung up on the leading/trailing stuff.  Not the best picture, but its the best I could find.

RH front twin LS drum brakes. The gap in the friction material next to the slave cyl.

I thought the "rule" was that the shoe material should "look like it had slid backwards on the shoe from the rotation when moving forward." 
 
If so, this RHD rotating clockwise would have "slid" the  shoe material in the opposite direction you have these installed. You have the gap on the trailing edge near the brake cylinder.  By the "rule" , it should be on the leading edge.

This is what 1963SV2 said.

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 11:17PM
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Perhaps we're getting hung up on the leading/trailing stuff.  Not the best picture, but its the best I could find.

RH front twin LS drum brakes. The gap in the friction material next to the slave cyl.

Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 04:15PM
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She's 50 years old, but the brakes were rebuilt by a well-known (at least on the west coast) trusted professional 5 years ago and then she sat in a garage mostly. I mentioned it to him and he told me to consider converting to disc brakes. I am of the thought that after sitting 5 years with a rebuilt brake system, a little more frequent driving will help and I've just taken possession of her recently. So I've ruled out bad parts and faulty installation in favor of suspecting minor adjustments and more driving. I will keep you posted.

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 02:40PM
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"The gap should go at the "trailing" end, when considering the rotation of the drum / wheel..."

Are you absolutely sure......

I don't do mine that way.

Sections M.2 and M.3 of my (BMC) Mini Workshop Manual (AKD4935) shows views of right hand brake assemblies.  Being the right hand wheel, the wheel would rotate clockwise when moving forward.  This means the bare section of the shoe is at the LEADING edge.  Further on, Fig. M.14 shows a left hand front hub and the same rules apply.

You might argue that the right hand hub is the one on the right as look at the front of the car - which would reverse the logic above.  However, Minis are right hand drive and right is determined looking forward .. as is the convention in the aeronautic and nautical world.  I couldn't actually find this defined in the manual however I have always used the assumption that a "right hand" component is on the drivers side of a RHD vehicle.... 

As for weak braking in reverse.....  I suggest there is something wrong with the components or assembly. 

If the brakes didn't well in reverse you couldn't do a front end throw......  To be successful the brakes need to lock....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 01:34PM
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As charrison said,  the double leading shoe (duplex).front brakes are.less effective in.reverse.   You are effectively using 1/2 of your brakes.   What I did.in the VW days was  to use the handbrake lever to assist the footbrakes when backing on a hill.  Push the release knob in so it doesn't lock and make sure it tightly adjusted.

Since you had the brakes done years ago and haven't driven it much, the brakes may just need to bed in and settle. And sometimes a new brake job needs readjustment afyer a few miles.

Old cars can be fun.
--Bill

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 10:42AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottwkurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
A lot of Mini drum brakes are installed incorrectly if you have not done so you need to check that they are in fact installed correctly.
Malsal, would you mind elaborating on "installed incorrectly"? I've had brake issues off and on. Plus, I know that the previous owner had a lot of work done by mechanics who knew nothing about Minis. I've found several things done wrong already in other areas, but I'm curious if that might be my issue.
X2 what charrison said.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 09:01AM
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That's really helpful—thanks! Next time I am adjusting the brakes I'll open up the drums and check the shoes.

-------------------------------------------------------------
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Sep 13, 2018 01:48AM
 Edited:  Sep 13, 2018 01:53AM
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The shoes are not fully covered in friction material, but have a gap at one end.

The gap should go at the "trailing" end, when considering the rotation of the drum / wheel.

Also, as far as the parking brake is concerned, wear on all moving parts is critical, esp the levers in the drum which engage with the shoes.  Check the sectors on the radius arms are free to move, and grease the channels on the rear s/frame.

Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

 Posted: Sep 12, 2018 08:36AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
A lot of Mini drum brakes are installed incorrectly if you have not done so you need to check that they are in fact installed correctly.
Malsal, would you mind elaborating on "installed incorrectly"? I've had brake issues off and on. Plus, I know that the previous owner had a lot of work done by mechanics who knew nothing about Minis. I've found several things done wrong already in other areas, but I'm curious if that might be my issue.

-------------------------------------------------------------
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 11:30AM
 Edited:  Sep 11, 2018 12:09PM
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The brakes were rebuilt and installed professionally by a local specialist about 5 years ago and then the Mini was driven hardly any miles after that. I am of the mind to do minor adjustments and repairs myself as I feel that is the point of having it. I have a good service manual and will try the needed adjustments. I certainly appreciate the advice! I just did not know if this was normal for a fifty-year-old Mini as this is my first one.

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 08:49AM
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A lot of Mini drum brakes are installed incorrectly if you have not done so you need to check that they are in fact installed correctly.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 08:23AM
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Got it, thanks! 

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 08:20AM
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That makes sense, thank you. 

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 02:58AM
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GB
The handbrake travel is compensated by shortening the cables - the adjuster/s for doing it are under the carpet just behind the lever.  You should set the rear brake adjustment on the backplate correctly before adjusting the lever to be fully on at three clicks.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 11:53PM
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If your car has standard drum brakes, it will have twin leading shoes at the front, and single leaders on the back.  This is a description of the way the shoe pivots to touch the drum.

This means you have 6 shoes doing optimum braking going forwards, but only 2 shoes giving optimum braking going backwards.

Upto '64 Minis had single leading shoe brakes on all 4 wheels, but this was changed as it was felt better braking forwards was needed (albeit at the expense of backwards efficiency).

Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

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