Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 28 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2

 Posted: Jun 24, 2019 12:44PM
Total posts: 1200
Last post: Sep 16, 2019
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Quote:
The looseness or play can be sometimes found where the outer race is located in the hub not in the bearing itself.
The spacer should be correct but you can machine one or sand on a flat surface to the length you need, unfortunately it is a bit of a guessing game. I think it is Cooper Tune/Steve Gibbs in Va on here that keeps all the spacers he takes out an re uses them for this very problem.

If you are running wheels with a wider than stock offset use Timken bearings but as you have tried both types i am guessing your issue is not with the bearings.
1) Both races were a tight press fit. 2) Still not sure what the spacer is all about. Why would I want to sand it or alter its length?

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jun 24, 2019 09:41AM
 Edited:  Jun 24, 2019 09:44AM
Total posts: 8138
Last post: Sep 19, 2019
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kermy
Another possibility is worn out hubs. A symptom of this is the bearings seeming loose and/or going in easily.
As much as I'd like to get a set of those pretty alloy KAD hubs, I don't understand how a worn hub would be the problem. If the bearing races fit tight into the hubs, where would the slop be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvander
Wasn't there a problem with the spacer between the bearings that wasn't the correct size? I think I had this issue when i bought the cheap wheel bearings. Then bought the Timkens and no more problems.
I've replaced the bearings twice trying to solve the wobble. The 1st set were Timkens, the 2nd set are cheapies. Tell me about the spacer. The spacers from both the Timkens and the cheapies went in rather loosely, not at all like the tight press fit of the races. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Try a thinner spacer first or make the one you have thinner.
Thinner spacer? Please elaborate. 

What's the possibility of the spindle being worn? Seems to me that would cause a wobble. I measured the spindle with a micrometer for roundness but have no idea the diameter should be.
The looseness or play can be sometimes found where the outer race is located in the hub not in the bearing itself.

The spacer should be correct but you can machine one or sand on a flat surface to the length you need, unfortunately it is a bit of a guessing game. I think it is Cooper Tune/Steve Gibbs in Va on here that keeps all the spacers he takes out an re uses them for this very problem.

If you are running wheels with a wider than stock offset use Timken bearings but as you have tried both types i am guessing your issue is not with the bearings.


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2019 08:05AM
Total posts: 1200
Last post: Sep 16, 2019
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kermy
Another possibility is worn out hubs. A symptom of this is the bearings seeming loose and/or going in easily.
As much as I'd like to get a set of those pretty alloy KAD hubs, I don't understand how a worn hub would be the problem. If the bearing races fit tight into the hubs, where would the slop be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvander
Wasn't there a problem with the spacer between the bearings that wasn't the correct size? I think I had this issue when i bought the cheap wheel bearings. Then bought the Timkens and no more problems.
I've replaced the bearings twice trying to solve the wobble. The 1st set were Timkens, the 2nd set are cheapies. Tell me about the spacer. The spacers from both the Timkens and the cheapies went in rather loosely, not at all like the tight press fit of the races. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Try a thinner spacer first or make the one you have thinner.
Thinner spacer? Please elaborate. 

What's the possibility of the spindle being worn? Seems to me that would cause a wobble. I measured the spindle with a micrometer for roundness but have no idea the diameter should be.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jun 11, 2019 05:03PM
Total posts: 8138
Last post: Sep 19, 2019
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
After replacing the wheel bearing, ball joints and tie rod end, I still have 1 to 2 degrees of play in my right front wheel when I grab it at 12 & 6 and 3 & 9. I'm sure everything's torqued and shimmed properly. I don't suspect the steering rack as I have no play in the steering wheel and the left front wheel is fine. There's not much left upstream to consider other than the pot joint or CVJ, but I'm not getting any click-click sounds when I turn. Worn spline(s) maybe? [video]

I wouldn't bother except I think it's causing some moderate torque steer in an otherwise straight steering car. It pulls right when I accelerate and left when I decelerate, which I think is consistent with a floppy left wheel; the wheel's going toe-in under acceleration and toe-out when I lift the throttle. Any ideas?
  
Try a thinner spacer first or make the one you have thinner.
If that does not work you may have a worn hub that needs replacing.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 11, 2019 03:32PM
Total posts: 114
Last post: Jun 11, 2019
Member since:Feb 18, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Wasn't there a problem with the spacer between the bearings that wasn't the correct size? I think I had this issue when i bought the cheap wheel bearings. Then bought the Timkens and no more problems.

 Posted: Jun 11, 2019 03:10PM
Total posts: 589
Last post: Sep 17, 2019
Member since:May 18, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
My vote would be worn cv spline/shaft my car did something similar, no noise from the cv but a little loose as you described. No amount of tightening the nut changed anything. I replaced the outer cv and the movement went away. 

 

 

 Posted: Jun 11, 2019 02:22PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: Sep 4, 2019
Member since:Jan 22, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
That's pretty bad. Do your wheel wiggling with the brakes applied. If it still wiggles its the ball joint. Another possibility is worn out hubs. A symptom of this is the bearings seeming loose and/or going in easily.

 Posted: Jun 11, 2019 01:26PM
Total posts: 1200
Last post: Sep 16, 2019
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
After replacing the wheel bearing, ball joints and tie rod end, I still have 1 to 2 degrees of play in my right front wheel when I grab it at 12 & 6 and 3 & 9. I'm sure everything's torqued and shimmed properly. I don't suspect the steering rack as I have no play in the steering wheel and the left front wheel is fine. There's not much left upstream to consider other than the pot joint or CVJ, but I'm not getting any click-click sounds when I turn. Worn spline(s) maybe? [video]

I wouldn't bother except I think it's causing some moderate torque steer in an otherwise straight steering car. It pulls right when I accelerate and left when I decelerate, which I think is consistent with a floppy left wheel; the wheel's going toe-in under acceleration and toe-out when I lift the throttle. Any ideas?
  

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

Found 28 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2