So theoretically I could lower the engine another inch and gaining another inch or two behind the sub frame??

Test fit the U-bolts before hand. They tend to be spaced too far apart and need closing in a vise to fit easy. You can do this from inside the car. 

I just finished converting my '64 Countryman back from restoring it as RHD 15 years ago to it's original and correct LHD. Leaving the front subframe bolts loosened and lowering the rear of the subframe/engine causes the upper part of the subframe to come in contact with the firewall, but left more than enough clearance to easily R and R the different steering racks. Randy

This is the information I wish I had when I changed my steering rack:

//mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/pdf/rack-2.pdf

Kelley

The Rack LIves between the Subframe and the body... Removing engine = No help.
  Dropping engine AND subframe out the bottom would be ALL the help but in the end more 'work' than necessary

I can / have done a rack on garage floor in about 4 hours.. Gross underchassis and some off putting hardware can slow you down.
  Setup your job for a phase 1 = Remove the rack + Phase 2  = Re install the rack
 
As noted the worst part is getting the U bolts back in...  it is a 'larger' job but simple in tasks.

prepare for Subframe drop
steering column remove
Shock disconnect
Brake line disconnect
  2 jacks. Lower it down
 Twist and pull it out.

Is it easier to pull the engine??  Too get to the steering rack??  Changing the rack is something that I’ve been putting off for a number of years because I have sump guards and I pop riveted a floor pan some 30 years ago.

As I tried to say before I have a new mk2 rack and mk2 steering arms waiting for this.

i know this is going to be a huge amount of work so if things pretty much move along how much time am i looking at???

Sorry about the gobbledygook above, I need new glasses so I skip things like proof-reading.

 

FYI I changed out my rack for a new one (latest design) a year and half ago. I have a RHD Mk1. Noticed that the cutout for the pinch bolt in the pinion is at the 11/12 o’clock position with the new rack centered. My old rack had the pinion cutout around the complete circumference (360 degrees). New racks only have a small cutout. Manual calls for the pinch bolt (cutout) to be at the 6 o’clock position on my mk 1 rack. So now I had the turn signal canceling bolt 180 degrees out. So two options. Disassemble the new steering pinion and reclock it to the 6 o’clock position or drill and tap a new position for the turn signal canceling bolt. LHD maybe different worth doing some research.

Highly recommend changing to the Mk2 steering arms with the later racks.

Also make sure to fill with gear oil. I did this before installing through the centering pin hole.

"....Also you may want to loosen the dog bone ...."

IME you will need to undo one end of the doggone  ..and everything else that connects the body to the subframe/engine... brake, clutch lines, fuel line ..maybe some wiring.. I remove the carbs ...just in case...  Don't forget to undo the tie rod ends.. 

You will need to drop the rear (at least) of the subframe about 3 inches.  Depends how much you want to struggle and squeeze .... Some people say you can just loosens the front bolts; I've found it easier to lift the body away from the subframe ...

One way to manage all the masses is to place the subframe on blocks - with the wheels removed so you don't have to worry about changing suspension loads.. and then use a large load spreader under the body near the firewall and use one trolley jack to lift the body until you have enough clearance.

None of this is easy as the clearances are non existent.  Just take it slow.

You don't *have* to fit Mk II steering arms ..had a mate who used Mk I arms with a Mk II for years.  AIUI it has to do with Akermann (sp?) angles which really come into play at full lock an doesn't seem to affect normal driving.  I prefer the matched parts.

Cheers, Ian

Also you may want to loosen the dog bone to allow the engine and gearbox to drop.
Another thing to do is make sure you test fit the steering rack u clamps as they tend to spring open and can be hard to fit, if they do spring out just nip them back into shape in a vice.
Lastly do not tighten the rack completely until you have the steering column in place.

Thanks guys. Yes Doug you’re right when you change from Mark Wanda Mark to you do you need the new steering arms but I have to have bought those two Wayback win who knows when. Thanks Steve people are up and down on whether you can pull it off the right front I’ve looked at this for a while and I think yours is that’s probably the easiest just loosen the top two Sub frame bolts where you take out the the donuts?? Just got done doing that job too and of course replacing six blade fan and now seems like a good time to to replace the rack even though you can feel the things is wobbly. but I do have a large floor jack... & a small one and 6 stands So I should be good there.

Am I remembering correctly that when you fit the Mk2 rack you also have to change the steering arms?

The simple answer is no. You will need to support the car with jack stands placed under ( I use some 3/4 plywood shelves 2'x2' )
under the floor pans. The front sub will need to be supported along with the power unit, so it can be lowered. I have a grantry
crane but a floor jack would work. Release the four rear bolts at floor pan. Loosen the four tower bolts and the two front bolts
need losening as well. The exhaust and shifter may well get in the way. Be mindful of the carbs as things drop down. Steve (CTR)

Well it looks like it’s time to replace my mark one steering rack. I’ll replace it with the Marktwo steering rack that I have here. My question is what type of pre-removal tips do you have for doing this and can you pull the steering rack out to the driver side area Without loosening the sub frame??