Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Sep 26, 2020 05:21AM | Dan Moffet | |
| Sep 25, 2020 10:10PM | Spank | |
| Sep 24, 2020 08:53PM | Beemus | |
| Sep 24, 2020 02:20PM | Spank | |
| Sep 24, 2020 01:37PM | malsal | |
| Sep 24, 2020 09:46AM | Beemus | |
| Sep 24, 2020 04:05AM | onetim | |
| Sep 24, 2020 12:05AM | Beemus |
Posted:
Sep 26, 2020
05:21AM
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Total posts: 9542
Last post: Apr 18, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spank
speaking from experience with just throwing a turbo on an A-series motor not really built for a turbo...
You aren't going to blow it up or shoot rods out the block. First thing that will happen is you'll push out the head gasket at #4 or you'll burn it through between 2&3. I strongly advise (when you have your first blown head gasket) is put in ARP studs and if you still have problems consider drilling for an 11-stud head.
Next likely thing bad that would happen is you'll torch an exhaust valve and end up with a nice pie-shaped cut out in it.
Bad news about the torched valve and even the blown head gasket is if it runs too long like that you'll burn a nice piece out of your valve seat and/or block /head face potentially.
3rd thing that would happen is you'll burn past the top ring of your pistons and once the piston is removed it will look like termites ate away through your ring lands.
If none of that happens, expect your transmission to succumb to the torque and take out a main trans bearing.
Sadly, none of that is very dramatic. But I guess you could hope for tons of blowby pushing oil out of every gasket which will then catch fire from the turbo heat. That might give you something to post on social media...
Good luck and have fun. After you add a turbo (or supercharger) and get your first taste you're going be like DANG, THAT'S AWESOME!
You aren't going to blow it up or shoot rods out the block. First thing that will happen is you'll push out the head gasket at #4 or you'll burn it through between 2&3. I strongly advise (when you have your first blown head gasket) is put in ARP studs and if you still have problems consider drilling for an 11-stud head.
Next likely thing bad that would happen is you'll torch an exhaust valve and end up with a nice pie-shaped cut out in it.
Bad news about the torched valve and even the blown head gasket is if it runs too long like that you'll burn a nice piece out of your valve seat and/or block /head face potentially.
3rd thing that would happen is you'll burn past the top ring of your pistons and once the piston is removed it will look like termites ate away through your ring lands.
If none of that happens, expect your transmission to succumb to the torque and take out a main trans bearing.
Sadly, none of that is very dramatic. But I guess you could hope for tons of blowby pushing oil out of every gasket which will then catch fire from the turbo heat. That might give you something to post on social media...
Good luck and have fun. After you add a turbo (or supercharger) and get your first taste you're going be like DANG, THAT'S AWESOME!
Good read too.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Total posts: 6349
Last post: Oct 22, 2023 Member since:Mar 9, 1999
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speaking from experience with just throwing a turbo on an A-series motor not really built for a turbo...
You aren't going to blow it up or shoot rods out the block. First thing that will happen is you'll push out the head gasket at #4 or you'll burn it through between 2&3. I strongly advise (when you have your first blown head gasket) is put in ARP studs and if you still have problems consider drilling for an 11-stud head.
Next likely thing bad that would happen is you'll torch an exhaust valve and end up with a nice pie-shaped cut out in it.
Bad news about the torched valve and even the blown head gasket is if it runs too long like that you'll burn a nice piece out of your valve seat and/or block /head face potentially.
3rd thing that would happen is you'll burn past the top ring of your pistons and once the piston is removed it will look like termites ate away through your ring lands.
If none of that happens, expect your transmission to succumb to the torque and take out a main trans bearing.
Sadly, none of that is very dramatic. But I guess you could hope for tons of blowby pushing oil out of every gasket which will then catch fire from the turbo heat. That might give you something to post on social media...
Good luck and have fun. After you add a turbo (or supercharger) and get your first taste you're going be like DANG, THAT'S AWESOME!
You aren't going to blow it up or shoot rods out the block. First thing that will happen is you'll push out the head gasket at #4 or you'll burn it through between 2&3. I strongly advise (when you have your first blown head gasket) is put in ARP studs and if you still have problems consider drilling for an 11-stud head.
Next likely thing bad that would happen is you'll torch an exhaust valve and end up with a nice pie-shaped cut out in it.
Bad news about the torched valve and even the blown head gasket is if it runs too long like that you'll burn a nice piece out of your valve seat and/or block /head face potentially.
3rd thing that would happen is you'll burn past the top ring of your pistons and once the piston is removed it will look like termites ate away through your ring lands.
If none of that happens, expect your transmission to succumb to the torque and take out a main trans bearing.
Sadly, none of that is very dramatic. But I guess you could hope for tons of blowby pushing oil out of every gasket which will then catch fire from the turbo heat. That might give you something to post on social media...
Good luck and have fun. After you add a turbo (or supercharger) and get your first taste you're going be like DANG, THAT'S AWESOME!
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Last post: Sep 24, 2020 Member since:Sep 24, 2020
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I like this mentality, I think ill just send it and if it breaks ill swap in a 12a or a 13b. I appreciate the input!
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Total posts: 6349
Last post: Oct 22, 2023 Member since:Mar 9, 1999
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go to Turbominis.co.uk forum for answers to your turbo specific questions.
It'll cost you a whole head gasket to find out what your compression ratio is (if that's what you are asking): Pop the head off, smear some grease at the top of the bore, bring your piston up, put some glass over the bore (with 2 holes in it), and use a pipette to check your volume at the top of the stroke. Then bring your piston to the bottom and measure the depth, do the math and there's your swept volume. Them measure your cylinder head with that same glass and pipette and add that to what you measured from the top of the stroke/bore and that's your unswept volume. Do the math and that's your static compression ratio.
How much boost you can handle will depend on what gas you are using, what altitude you are at, air temp, ignition timing and so on.
IMHO, don't be so concerned with "Can I run 7psi or can I run 10psi"... just friggin' run it. There are guys on turbominis.co.uk who are putting over 20psi through their engines. If you have a stockish motor, and you're comparing it to other stock-ish motors, you are obsessing over what nail polish to put on your bride whom you haven't even met yet...
Put the kit together and on the car, start with reasonable boost level, get the timing right (timing is everything) and keep turning up the boost until you are happy or until it pops.
It'll cost you a whole head gasket to find out what your compression ratio is (if that's what you are asking): Pop the head off, smear some grease at the top of the bore, bring your piston up, put some glass over the bore (with 2 holes in it), and use a pipette to check your volume at the top of the stroke. Then bring your piston to the bottom and measure the depth, do the math and there's your swept volume. Them measure your cylinder head with that same glass and pipette and add that to what you measured from the top of the stroke/bore and that's your unswept volume. Do the math and that's your static compression ratio.
How much boost you can handle will depend on what gas you are using, what altitude you are at, air temp, ignition timing and so on.
IMHO, don't be so concerned with "Can I run 7psi or can I run 10psi"... just friggin' run it. There are guys on turbominis.co.uk who are putting over 20psi through their engines. If you have a stockish motor, and you're comparing it to other stock-ish motors, you are obsessing over what nail polish to put on your bride whom you haven't even met yet...
Put the kit together and on the car, start with reasonable boost level, get the timing right (timing is everything) and keep turning up the boost until you are happy or until it pops.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemus
Hi All, long time forum lurker & first time posting.
I have what I believe to be a 1275 A+ engine in my 1959 Austin Healey sprite however through trying to learn the exact redline and how much boost I can run with the engine, I realized that I couldn't find out much about it. After about 2 1/2 hours of research I found out that I have a 1275 A+ Ital motor due to its odd oil filter placement compared to other 1275's. However the engine code still baffles me because It resembles nothing like other 1275 a+ series engine codes. The code is BHM1463E 140943 and because it doesn't have an 8G in front of it, I believe it to be a Gold seal engine. I'm having a troubling time finding what car this engine came out of, and I want to know how much boost this engine can handle, if any. I've seen on some forums that some 1275's can handle 6-7 psi before problems start popping up however I've also heard that some 1275 a+ engines can handle upwards of +10psi of boost easily. Also what is the true redline of this 1275 A+ Ital because my sprite tachometer displays the redline between 5600rpm and 6000rpm and I'm sure the redline for the 1275 is different from the stock
948 engine that the tach is designed for. I also have never in my life revved this engine past 5400rpm.
I apologise if this post was all over the place, I made the mistake of falling into this rabbit hole at such a late hour and I am half asleep while typing this. Any input is appreciated
I have what I believe to be a 1275 A+ engine in my 1959 Austin Healey sprite however through trying to learn the exact redline and how much boost I can run with the engine, I realized that I couldn't find out much about it. After about 2 1/2 hours of research I found out that I have a 1275 A+ Ital motor due to its odd oil filter placement compared to other 1275's. However the engine code still baffles me because It resembles nothing like other 1275 a+ series engine codes. The code is BHM1463E 140943 and because it doesn't have an 8G in front of it, I believe it to be a Gold seal engine. I'm having a troubling time finding what car this engine came out of, and I want to know how much boost this engine can handle, if any. I've seen on some forums that some 1275's can handle 6-7 psi before problems start popping up however I've also heard that some 1275 a+ engines can handle upwards of +10psi of boost easily. Also what is the true redline of this 1275 A+ Ital because my sprite tachometer displays the redline between 5600rpm and 6000rpm and I'm sure the redline for the 1275 is different from the stock
948 engine that the tach is designed for. I also have never in my life revved this engine past 5400rpm.
I apologise if this post was all over the place, I made the mistake of falling into this rabbit hole at such a late hour and I am half asleep while typing this. Any input is appreciated
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Last post: Sep 24, 2020 Member since:Sep 24, 2020
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the Austin Metro Turbo runs a Garrett t3 turbo and id guess it runs 6-7psi. I don't really fancy turbos but I know that AW11 MR2's use an AMR500 supercharger which is a twin roots type supercharger that also outputs 6-7psi with stock 150mm crank and 125mm SC pulleys. Ive been thinking about running that on my engine and frankensteining a bunch of parts together because im too cheap to buy one of those $4.4k supercharger kits for the 1275. Im still trying to figure out the configuration and think that it would be better to have it blow through the carb compared to drawing through it.
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I set the little red pointer on my SU tach at 6000 RPM on my near stock A+ 1275, but when giving her hell there is little hell to be had over 4500 RPM, it will largely depend on the power band of the camshaft installed. What means of boost are you using?
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Total posts: 3
Last post: Sep 24, 2020 Member since:Sep 24, 2020
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Hi All, long time forum lurker & first time posting.
I have what I believe to be a 1275 A+ engine in my 1959 Austin Healey sprite however through trying to learn the exact redline and how much boost I can run with the engine, I realized that I couldn't find out much about it. After about 2 1/2 hours of research I found out that I have a 1275 A+ Ital motor due to its odd oil filter placement compared to other 1275's. However the engine code still baffles me because It resembles nothing like other 1275 a+ series engine codes. The code is BHM1463E 140943 and because it doesn't have an 8G in front of it, I believe it to be a Gold seal engine. I'm having a troubling time finding what car this engine came out of, and I want to know how much boost this engine can handle, if any. I've seen on some forums that some 1275's can handle 6-7 psi before problems start popping up however I've also heard that some 1275 a+ engines can handle upwards of +10psi of boost easily. Also what is the true redline of this 1275 A+ Ital because my sprite tachometer displays the redline between 5600rpm and 6000rpm and I'm sure the redline for the 1275 is different from the stock
948 engine that the tach is designed for. I also have never in my life revved this engine past 5400rpm.
I apologise if this post was all over the place, I made the mistake of falling into this rabbit hole at such a late hour and I am half asleep while typing this. Any input is appreciated
I have what I believe to be a 1275 A+ engine in my 1959 Austin Healey sprite however through trying to learn the exact redline and how much boost I can run with the engine, I realized that I couldn't find out much about it. After about 2 1/2 hours of research I found out that I have a 1275 A+ Ital motor due to its odd oil filter placement compared to other 1275's. However the engine code still baffles me because It resembles nothing like other 1275 a+ series engine codes. The code is BHM1463E 140943 and because it doesn't have an 8G in front of it, I believe it to be a Gold seal engine. I'm having a troubling time finding what car this engine came out of, and I want to know how much boost this engine can handle, if any. I've seen on some forums that some 1275's can handle 6-7 psi before problems start popping up however I've also heard that some 1275 a+ engines can handle upwards of +10psi of boost easily. Also what is the true redline of this 1275 A+ Ital because my sprite tachometer displays the redline between 5600rpm and 6000rpm and I'm sure the redline for the 1275 is different from the stock
948 engine that the tach is designed for. I also have never in my life revved this engine past 5400rpm.
I apologise if this post was all over the place, I made the mistake of falling into this rabbit hole at such a late hour and I am half asleep while typing this. Any input is appreciated
