When I removed the solenoids a little fluid leaked from each hole. From what I know the solenoids control fluid pressure inside the valve body and they don't need to be primed if you follow the relearn process that came with the installation instructions. The reason I replaced them was that I had a solenoid failure code and a gear icon on the dash, only one solenoid had failed but I replaced them all so I didn't have to take the pan off again in a month or so. The solenoids I bought are aftermarket parts since the local BMW dealer would only sell me a valve body and not solenoids, the solenoids I bought were from rockauto from a company called Rotra. And yes I was able to clear all the code with the scan tool I have, the new code would only pop up after driving one or two miles, and then the gear icon would pop up on the dash.

This is what i bought: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10319176&cc=1501047&pt=8476&jsn=803

I am no expert in automatic transmissions, especially 2011 Mini Coopers. But here's some off-the-wall things to check:

When you removed the solenoids, did any fluid leak out? Is there a way (and a process) to check the fluid level and top it up?

What do the solenoids actuate? Are they electro-mechanical devices that push on a valve or lever inside, or are they electrically operated valves that regulate fluid flow? If the latter, do they need to be primed before installation, or is there a bleeding process?

Why did you replace them in the first place? Were you getting fault codes that suggested replacement? What happens if you re-install the old ones - the new ones may be faulty or incorrect for your transmission. Are they properly installed with the connectors fully inserted?

Are the new solenoids genuine MINI parts or are they aftermarket? Are they a "performance upgrade" type that may not be compatible with your transmission or electronic control systems?

Were you able to clear the codes before driving it? From what I've heard some vehicles stay in safe mode (or resist releasing whatever mode is the problem) if a code is still present. I do not know if that applies to your car.

After replacing the transmission solenoids in my automatic transmission for my 2011 Mini Cooper basic, I now have this error code. EGS is the only source of information I have. Neutral Idle Control Failure: Clutch C1 Stuck Closed which I receive from my OBDII reader. After a mile of perfect driving, the automobile enters safemode. I would welcome any information that could help me determine what has to be fixed. geometry dash  

Sorry, we have not seen code 4F9A in the past and we are unable to find any information on this code...  

Any auto trans specialists out there?

Im getting this code after changing the transmission solenoids in my automatic transmission for my 2011 mini cooper base. The only info I have to go off of is EGS: Clutch C1 Stuck Closed: Failure Of Neutral Idle Control. Which my OBDII reader gives me. I can drive the car just fine for a mile then it goes into safemode. Any info to help me figure out what I need to fix would be appreciated.