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 Posted: May 24, 2025 11:34AM
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If you're not running the engine to really high rpm's all the time (like on track) then you also don't need the dual spring 200lb springs, std springs will do nicely and ease the load on the cam and lifters. But I'm betting on poorly hardened lifters as the root cause of your problems.

 Posted: May 23, 2025 05:11PM
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I was running the Keith Dodds 1.5 rockers that came with the engine build.  I will be using 1.3s moving forward because I’m hoping to get some more longevity

 Posted: May 23, 2025 04:46PM
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I've seen some sets of lifters with very poor hardening, that would do this also....but do check for coil spring bind too. Were you running std lifters or 1.5's?

 Posted: May 20, 2025 09:36AM
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I already know the build specs of this engine.  I pulled the pistons and the crankshaft this weekend.  Good news is the damage is isolated to the camshaft, cam bearings, and lifters.  This time im going to go with a cross drilled piper cam, lifters with oil drain hole, and stick with 1.3 rockers to eliminate stress on the valve train.

 Posted: May 19, 2025 12:04PM
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Did you purchase the engine from Mini Mania or from the original owner? I can at least look up the build specs if I know who it was sold to.

 

-Brendan

 Posted: May 18, 2025 07:49AM
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US

If you have the cam manufacturer info,  try contacting them directly.  Ask if you could send them the dead cam, lifters, and a sample of the old oil, have them send the oil out for analysis, and get back to you with what they see in the results.  It wont fix the damage, and might not identify a root cause, but the info and direct conversation will guide your rebuild.  You are going to tear the engine and trans down and totally rebuild anyway.  The cam mfg will tell you their installation, prelube, and break-in requirements for the next time. 

 Posted: May 16, 2025 05:19AM
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I was able to get ahold of the sales desk and they stated all engines are properly broken in prior to delivery to the customer.  The head condition was fine.  No bent or deformed pushrods or valves.  The springs look to be in good condition along with the keepers.  Funny enough some of the little springs on the valve stem seals are missing so I am wondering if spring binding or side loading was an issue.  The plan is to remove the crank and see if the damage goes deeper that the cam this weekend

 Posted: May 15, 2025 07:21PM
 Edited:  May 15, 2025 07:23PM
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US

High lift rockers with the wrong valve springs or incorrectly installed springs could do what you're seeing. If the spring coils bind it can cause a lot of damage. I guess if the valves were massively mis-adjusted it could do the same thing . Are any of the rockers bent? Any broken valve springs?

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

 Posted: May 15, 2025 06:36PM
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I'm certainly no expert on engine rebuilds, but to my eyes it appears that the folks involved in this either didn't care about the end result or simply didn't have the proper skills to pull this off. Unfortunately, if I can't get a response to an order for a gas cap placed a month ago, I very much doubt you are going to get any satisfaction from the powers that be at our host company. I feel badly for your situation, but hopefully it will serve as a warning to any others who might be contemplating a similar purchase. 

 Posted: May 14, 2025 04:11PM
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But wait theres more.  The cam is trashed and so are all the lifters!  I am shocked!  How is this possible?  Someone please shine some light on this...what could have caused this?  Did the high lift rockers that were put on the engine result in too much strain on the valve train?  The cam bearings are pretty gouged and im hoping the mains will still be okay.

 Posted: May 14, 2025 04:06PM
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Alright!  Finally got the flywheel off.  From the looks of it the timing gears were not properly shimmed as they were fouling the inside of the cover.  That would make sense why I was getting a clacking sound at idle.

 Posted: May 8, 2025 05:36AM
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These are all great questions!  I would have assumed the artisans at minimania would have done their due diligence.  I didn't receive a build sheet however I followed typical break in procedures for the first 500 miles.  Im thinking I may have a bad came.  The flywheel puller will be here next week so I should know more.

 Posted: May 8, 2025 05:14AM
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US

OK, engine assembled  by others.  Did they break it in, did they dyno it?  Or was it just assembled and shipped to you with initial start/break in instructions?  Did it come with a build sheet at least?  Any info on the gearbox rebuild?

 Posted: May 7, 2025 03:16PM
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Well....at a stopping point now...currently waiting on a flywheel puller so I can continue disassembly.  More to follow.

 Posted: May 6, 2025 02:18PM
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This engine was built by our host in 2013.  Like I said I have about 5000 cumulative road/highway miles on it running 20W-50 high ZDDP oil.  Its tough to make claim the builder was at fault when I know material degradation failures do happen.  Doesent remove the fact this has the chance to be costly.  If anything it could shed light on quality and reliability in parts manufacturers.  I will post photos and updates as I make progress.

 Posted: May 6, 2025 02:08PM
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Post the name of engine builder please.  so we can avoid him. 

 Posted: May 6, 2025 02:02PM
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From the look of it the valves seem to be okay even with all the carbon....running a bit rich it would seem.  You can see the #1 exhaust valve is discolored in comparison to the rest but to the naked eye doesent look cracked....we shall see

 Posted: May 6, 2025 01:54PM
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just pulled the oil drain and look what I found.  I think im leaning more towards a cam at this point but we shall see.  I just hope the bearings are not toast as well.  The motor does turn over by hand freely and it was running just barely before I started this project.  I know for sure the oil pump has to go with this amount of stuff.

 Posted: May 6, 2025 01:49PM
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So here is a photo of the push rods.  As you can see the #1 exhaust all the way to the left is recessed more that the intake with cam lobes in neutral.

 Posted: May 6, 2025 12:06PM
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Hi everyone...I wanted to start this post to track the progress and solicit comments through this process.  I have a 1380 engine which was built by a professional which I believe either has a lobed that's been wiped or a lifter which is bad.  I bet money on the cam has failed.  I started to notice exhaust noise coming out my HIF44 carb....sounded like barking at high revs.....5000 RPM.  I originally thought i had a burnt valve but compression on all 4 cylinders read 170 PSI.  Removed the valve cover and that's where things got interesting.  #1 exhaust valve has about 3/8 of a gap between the pad of the rocker and the top of the valve.  Ill post some pics as the fun begins.  The question is why would an Elgin CAM003 get destroyed when it had only has approximately 5000 miles on it and used as a weekend road car.