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New Evolution design in 4mm thick metal mase to fit genuine and non-genuine Classic Mini subframes better than the standard originals.

The amount a wheel leans in or out at the top is called "camber". As the car turns and the body leans, the tire can lose traction as it no longer is making full contact with the road. When the top of the wheel leans in toward the center of the car it's called negative camber; typically a necessary set-up for competition or hard driving. Negative camber at the rear can be just as important as the front and stock rear is often at 0º or even positive! The control of rear camber is by the outer bracket for the rear radius arm which is bolted to the rear subframe. We offer two methods for changing the rear camber; MS69 is a pair of fixed brackets that only require bolting in place to provide an extra 1.5º of negative camber from the original setting. MS73, the ultimate option, allows for completely adjustable camber AND rear toe-in. This is done by manipulating an eccentric washer on the outer pivot point of the trailing arm pin. Camber is still adjusted with a turn bolt.

For the Classic Mini 1959-2000, will NOT fit BMW MINI models.

Adjustable Rear Camber & Toe Brackets | Classic Mini

Adjustable Rear Camber & Toe Brackets | Classic Mini

Adjustable Rear Camber & Toe Brackets | Classic Mini
Part No: MS73
$85.95
Qty:
Fits the following:
Classic Mini
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New Evolution design in 4mm thick metal mase to fit genuine and non-genuine Classic Mini subframes better than the standard originals.

The amount a wheel leans in or out at the top is called "camber". As the car turns and the body leans, the tire can lose traction as it no longer is making full contact with the road. When the top of the wheel leans in toward the center of the car it's called negative camber; typically a necessary set-up for competition or hard driving. Negative camber at the rear can be just as important as the front and stock rear is often at 0º or even positive! The control of rear camber is by the outer bracket for the rear radius arm which is bolted to the rear subframe. We offer two methods for changing the rear camber; MS69 is a pair of fixed brackets that only require bolting in place to provide an extra 1.5º of negative camber from the original setting. MS73, the ultimate option, allows for completely adjustable camber AND rear toe-in. This is done by manipulating an eccentric washer on the outer pivot point of the trailing arm pin. Camber is still adjusted with a turn bolt.

For the Classic Mini 1959-2000, will NOT fit BMW MINI models.

 
 
Question:
I have a 1998 Sportspack Mini. My LR tire has approximately 5 degrees of toe-in. All other tires look fine. Not sure if this was caused in an accident, etc. before I purchased. Not sure what's bent out of place but was thinking about using MS73 brackets and/or shims to remove. Concern MS73 won't really help since it most likely provides adjustable toe-in when I really need toe-out adjustment. Correct? Any concerns using shims (guessing 1/2" shims)? Would probably need to replace w/longer bolts. Are longer ones available? Any input appreciated. Thanks
Answer:
Dane,
    Thanks for checking with us. Indeed the MS73 allows you to adjust rear toe but you are right in assuming that you will not be able the range of adjustment you need. The most common is the rear trailing arm itself.  It is hard to believe that such a massive looking piece could bend and not break but it is often the case.  
Click here to see the part I think you would need: https://www.minimania.com/part/21A393/Classic-Mini-Cooper-Rear-Swing-Radius-Arm-Dry-Left---Reconditioned

PS, there are a number of things you might do 'make due' if you not concerned about doing it the right way.  You could elongate the hole that the swing arm shaft goes thru the subframe, make a spacer to fill in the gap and then you may be able to get the MS73 to tweak it into place.- not recommended but have seen it done. 

FOLLOW UP QUESTION - Thank you for getting back so quickly. What you’re stating makes sense. I’ve been baffled as to where the alignment problem is. The subframe doesn’t appear to be bent. The body section where the subframe mounts doesn’t appear to be out of sorts. And looking at the swing arm, it does “appear” too massive to be the issue, but “if” it was bent, all the pieces of the puzzle seem to fit with what I’m seeing. I have no issue replacing the swing arm and in fact is my preference. I see the recommended part is reconditioned and there are no new trailing arms (other than the alloys). Is this due to price or availability? Does the reconditioned part come with a warranty? Also, I believe I can replace the arm w/o dropping the subframe. Is that correct? In replacing the arm, are there other parts I should look at replacing while I’m at it? Again, thank you for your help on this matter. It is very much appreciated. Regards.

PS, while I have your ear – I’m replacing the Koni shocks on the Mini as well. I purchased all four Koni adjustable gas sport shocks (80-1675SPORT & 80-1794SPORT) for less than $400 but they’re coming from Holland and taking months to deliver. You have what I believe is the equivalent shocks (C-STR1675 & C-STR1794) but they’re almost $640 – 60% more. Not sure what the delivery time is, but would have bought them from you except I couldn’t justify spending that much more. I will be purchasing the arm though! From: [email protected] 

ANSWER TO FOLLOW UP QUESTION -      Ref reconditioned arms: Indeed new ones are no longer available as the recon ones are well inspected, look like new with all the wear points replaced. The only 'warranty' as such is that they are  as good as  new, No warranty against them not being able to be bent in the future). 
 
And, Yes the arm can be replaced without the need to remove the subframe.
 
As for the Koni shock question- it is real on-going dilemma as importing costs are very high (and getting higher with the shutdown of so many air flights). There is very little control of worldwide pricing and thus if a company wants to simply dump stock by lowering the prices even the fact that in the USA, Koni insists on a MAP (Minimum Advertised Price), outside of the US there is no control.   Sounds to me you will simply have to be patient and wait for them to arrive.
 
 
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