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ENGINE STABILIZER KIT UPPER RIGHT HAND MINI & MINI COOPER

ENGINE STABILIZER KIT UPPER RIGHT HAND MINI & MINI COOPER

ENGINE STABILIZER KIT UPPER RIGHT HAND MINI & MINI COOPER
Qty:
Internet Price $76.95
Part No: MSSK1300
Internet Price $76.95
Alternate Products
Engine Stabilizer Kit 1275 '92 On Spi Not Twin Point
$99.95 Engine Stabilizer Kit 1275 '92 On Spi Not Twin Point
The original ultimate engine stabilizer kit fits most 1275cc cylinder heads for right hand drive cars.
It fits to the thermostat housing and end manifold stud and also onto the bulkhead where the heater pipes go through.
Not for cars with thermostat sandwich plate.
(For 850, 998, and 1100, see MSSK1000.)
See MSSK1301 for sandwich plate type except Cooper cars 1990-2 that have PEQ10019 thermostat and 96 on twinpoint injection cars. - uses 4 standard bushings 31G1155

Installation Instructions Engine Stabilizer Steady Bar Kit

1.This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2.Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3.Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine. Remove the exhaust manifold stud by tightening another nut against the original manifold nut and then screwing the stud out of the cylinder head.

4.Remove the three bolts securing the bulk head blanking plate as shown on the diagragm. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram, then this should be disconnected at the engine.

5.If the engine is fitted with an oil-separator type of breather canister welded to the tapped cover, this must be removed to gain clearance for the steady bar. If the engine is fitted with a secondary breather on the rocker cover or flywheel housing then a plain tappet cover can be fitted in place of the canister type. However, if the tappet cover breather was the only form of breathing on the engine then you can either:
(i) Fit a rocker cover with a breather.
(ii) Fit a tappet cover with a ½" bore breather pipe as used on most  A series         engines before the introduction of closed circuit breathing.
With both of these types of breather, the outlet should be led via hose down towards the bottom of the subframe and the breather connection on the carburetor should be blanked off.

6.Disconnect the engine bracket from the steady bar and fit it over the thermostat housing studs. Check that the small hole in the rear face of the bracket lines up with missing manifold stud hole. If a cast-iron manifold is being retained it will be necessary to file away some of the manifold and the bracket to set the hole to line up. Remove the bracket and reconnect it to the rest of the steady bar tightening the nut fully.

7.If the car has a heater pipe as mentioned in 3. (above), this should be passed through the large hole in the chassis bracket as the complete steady bar assembly is lowered on to the car. Note: On hydrolastic cars, it may be necessary to slightly bend the bracket supporting the hydrolastic pipe to enable the pipe to clear the steady bar.

8.Fit the manifold stud through the small hole in the rear of the engine bracket and into the cylinder head. Screw it in a couple of turns but do not tighten fully.

9.Refit the three bolts removed from the bulkhead, using them to bolt on the chassis bracket. Drill 5/16" hole through the bulkhead using the fourth hole in the chassis bracket as guide and then fit an extra 5/16" bolt and nut.

10.Refit the radiator support bracket and the thermostat housing nuts. Fully tighten all the nuts and bolts. Refit the heater hose (if removed) and top up with water.

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Related Technical Articles:
Classic Mini Cooper Engine Mounts & Stabilizers page 27
Created: January 03, 2019
Engine mounts & engine stabilizers for the classic Mini from 1959 thru 2000 are available as factory original or aftermarket. Great prices and selection
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