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Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Stud Kit Arp R50 R52 R53

Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Stud Kit Arp R50 R52 R53

Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Stud Kit Arp R50 R52 R53

Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Stud Kit Arp R50 R52 R53

Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Stud Kit Arp R50 R52 R53
Part No: NME1076
Fits the following:
MINI (2002-Current)
Alternate Products
Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Bolt Set OEM R50 R52 R53
$95.99 Mini Cooper Cylinder Head Bolt Set OEM R50 R52 R53
ARP Cylinder Head Stud conversion kit with studs and 12 point nuts.


2002-2006 R50 MINI Cooper and R53 Cooper S Hatchbacks
2005-2008 R52 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertibles

It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competition powerplants. Simply stated, there's not a better stud setup on the market today.

For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior to 'aircraft' quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and the results are far superior to thos lesser quality studs from other manufactureres who just dump pieces in a basket and hopt for the best.

Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfetly concentric as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and reuslts in an exceptionally strait part. It's important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground - the material is thread rolled in bar stock from (mostly before heat-treat, when tha material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs are manufacturered to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into position and are perfectly aligned - something that won't happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 2000% (that's twenty times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way, because it's tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.

You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to shorter studs) more equalizes the 'stretch' of both studs, which makes for a amore consistend clamping force - one that compenstes for head gasket compression when the head is installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum sealing.

Clearly the best on the market today, and the favorite of leading professional engine builders in all forms of racing.

Installation instructions.

For Raceware Head Stud Kit, see NME1075.

For factory stock head bolts, see NME1070.

For the 2007-2013 Gen 2 MINIs, see G2NME1600.


ARP's factory tech representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment.

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fasterner is actually being 'twisted' while it is being torqued to the proper reading. Accodingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a 'relaxed' mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.

See all available ARP products here.