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Originally Posted by Isleblue65 Once I put EBC Green pads in my 998 Cooper discs they stopped pretty well - especially after the pads had warmed up. With stock pads, it was a hair raising experience. I would not say by any stretch that they stop the car with confidence. There were several times that I had my foot slammed down as hard as it would go and wondered if the car was going to stop before it hit the object in front of me. I don't think it was possible to brake hard enough to lock up the wheels with them. When I upgraded to 7.5 Cooper S brakes, it finally felt like the equipment I had was safe for the car. Maybe the 7" discs are OK for a 998, but I didn't feel confident in my braking in my 1335 with them.
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I had Hardie Ferodo `Metal King' 998 pads in mine, with a `PBR' VH44J servo. It stopped bloody well I thought. Good thing too, it was an automatic...
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Once I put EBC Green pads in my 998 Cooper discs they stopped pretty well - especially after the pads had warmed up. With stock pads, it was a hair raising experience. I would not say by any stretch that they stop the car with confidence. There were several times that I had my foot slammed down as hard as it would go and wondered if the car was going to stop before it hit the object in front of me. I don't think it was possible to brake hard enough to lock up the wheels with them.
When I upgraded to 7.5 Cooper S brakes, it finally felt like the equipment I had was safe for the car. Maybe the 7" discs are OK for a 998, but I didn't feel confident in my braking in my 1335 with them.
"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"
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thanks Kevin, I forwarded the information.
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Originally Posted by scooperman Quote:
I knew I had read this somewhere, that the 997 caliper could be modified for 998 pads. Kevin, this question is being asked again over on the minicooperregister forum, they are asking for how-to details. Perhaps you could enlighten them? Here is the link //forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=16613 |
I'm sorry, it's 15+ years since I did the mod, car was sold and I have no pics. Nor am I a member on that forum, so could someone here please pass this on:
It is simply a matter of splitting the caliper halves, clamping the main body on a milling machine so it is level and parallel to the table axis, then milling right thru the caliper to let it take the width of a 998 pad + .005" approx (sorry but I don't have a pad handy to measure). The depth stays the same as it was. It's about 5 mins work once set up.
The 998 pad holes align with the existing 2 split pin holes in the caliper, 998 pads simply assemble like Cooper S ones do (2 pins & no spring clip).
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Glad this topic came up again as I must have missed it the first time around.
Thx Steve, it's good to know the 5" Dunlop D1's will fit w/S brakes. I scored a set when the shipping and exchange rate was perfect and will be swapped with the Cooper brakes when I get done working on the house projects.
Don't anyone get excited, I'm keeping the Cooper brakes for the next Mini. dan
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4½" genuine Minilites with the drum offset juuust stick out past the wing. 5" GBs are well out past the wing and the 5" Minilights are so far out into the breeze it isn't even funny.
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Micke runs 7" discs on his 1962 Cooper...as seen here...
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Originally Posted by DRMINI 7" disks got a bad rep years ago from Vizard and others, but with modern pads they work quite well on a road car. |
I knew I had read this somewhere, that the 997 caliper could be modified for 998 pads. Kevin, this question is being asked again over on the minicooperregister forum, they are asking for how-to details. Perhaps you could enlighten them? Here is the link //forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=16613
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The Cooper S outer CV/drive flange assembly is totally different to the drum braked Minis or 7" Coopers. Disks are 1/8" thicker too, and calipers wider than Cooper.
This pushes the wheel mount face out by almost 1" each side.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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Where is this extra 1/2" that sticks out wider on the cooper s, vs the Cooper? It's the same hub, bearings, lower arms, upper arms, right?
Only difference is the outer CV, and drive flange, right?
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Originally Posted by yowzaa The rims are Cosmic "RW10" 4.00"x10" old style. You can see a picture at the following website: //www.wheeldictionary.com . I'll take a look at the tire size this weekend. I bought the rims from a fellow MM member and he sent pics of the rims installed on his mini that has 7.5" disks. The tire was extending past the fender |
The tire in the pic (btw: love the black Vans) is a Kumho 145/80-10 which is a perfect size for a 4.0 wheel.
At one time I contacted Yokohama directly to find out what width wheels they reccommended for the A008 165/70-10. They felt a good range was 4.5ins to 6.0ins wide. When I asked about mounting the A008's on 4.0in wheels they shook their head and said no. Too narrow. I know it has been done but if Yokohama said no, I wasent going to push it.
John
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Cooper (7" discs) brakes give the same track as a drum braked car. So wherever your tyres are now, they will be the same with 7" Cooper brakes but will stick out another 1/2 to 3/4 inch or so with S brakes. "Reverse" S rims (with their extra offset) were invented to give Coopers the S look.
I've often wondered why the 3.5" S wheel existed. The 4.5" version was available as an option from the getgo, invariably used in competition and fitted under the standard arches (remembering that only 145 tyres were available at the start - not counting the various race tyres (which often appeared on the road - the Nanny state wasn't so active back then .
4.5 "S" rims with 165s do fit (juuussst) under standard arches - as do FIA 4.5 Minilites with 165 Yokies.
Cheers, Ian
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The rims are Cosmic "RW10" 4.00"x10" old style. You can see a picture at the following website: //www.wheeldictionary.com . I'll take a look at the tire size this weekend. I bought the rims from a fellow MM member and he sent pics of the rims installed on his mini that has 7.5" disks. The tire was extending past the fender
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What tire profile do you want to run? I have a set of the very early flat spoke (for lack of a better discription) not turbine type. I have been told they are 4 inch but to be honest I have not measured them. I have run them on my 7.5 brakes with 165 and they were ok. I have not put the front end back together yet. I can take another look at the rear.
Steve
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I've never heard of 4" Cosmics. Are you sure they are 4"? Also, it is not the width of the wheel that causes them to stick out, it is the offset in the back.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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I don't think 4" Cosmics will stick out with Cooper S brakes.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
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I did not have a set of Mambas I did try try 5 inch minilites with 165s and they were just a touch to far out for me. Five inch D1 Dunlops with 145s worked for me. I have not tried them with 165s. Five inch wagon wheels with 165s needed flares. 4.5 Cooper S rims with 165s are a nice fit for me. I have a set of five inch 100 Plus I have yet to try. I'm leaning toward 4.5 S offset Minilite with 165.
Steve
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Ok thanks for clarification guys. While we are on the subject of brakes i assume the 8.4's are the same spacing as the 7.5's.
Steve when you tried the wheel combos' did you try 5 inch Mamba's and will they work without flares on 7.5's.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
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make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Malcolm, Steve is correct...7.5" S discs definately push the wheels further out than the 7" ones, requiring the spacered drums on the rear, and that is also why the original 1071 Cooper S had the narrow steel wheels with the offset so far inward the hubcap sat "proud" of the wheel.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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