If it were mine, I'd obtain a pair of used std. trumpets (uncut/original length), a set of new rubber cones, and install the new knuckle joints. 

I don't believe you've told us what size wheels you're using, so I wouldn't bother with the washers; 12" wheels do just fine without the washers, no need to raise it more than necessary.  It might be more dosh than you'd originally planned to spend, but the repair would be done right and the next owner would be appreciative.

the angle has caused the springs to be a little canted at well. So am I looking at 2 springs and a new hi-low set? or can I let the springs settle and just due a new set of trumpets

Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly, but it'll be futile trying to set the ride height anywhere near stock/standard if what I suspect is a completely collapsed rubber cone still attached to the bent metal object.

Yuk!!!

I wouldn't think "may well be"...... The suspension height is controlled by the lenght of that rod.  The bend means its now shorter... so the height has dropped.

The biggest probleem is that the rear suspension weight is working that bend like a hinge.  You're lucky it hasn't fatigued and snapped.... which would dump the rear arch onto the tyre.

Maybe someone locally has a pair of stock trumpets available from their HiLO conversion?? You need them.....

Cheers, Ian

That is definitely not factory and the bend is not correct it should be dead straight which may well be the reason the suspension is low in the first place.

well the trumpest appear to be some kind of aftermarket hi-lo which I cannot get back in. I disconnected and removed the driver side shock and dropped the unit down and pulled it out to find I could not remove the knucle joint to save my life. on top of that the trumpet rod is  angled for some reason and the body had been cutting into it. So the car has Hi-lo suspention on it but I cannot get it back in to adjust it. The bend on the arm is not letting me get it back in the way it came out no matter how I try. if I do the spring cup first then the body interfears with the rod and I can't move the knucle into the cup. if I do it the other way I can't get the spring over the mount and it probably hits the body too. 

Interesting mention earlier of "two lock bolts"...does your trumpet have these???

Cheers, Ian

I got Lucky and the little mini Specialty shop the next town over had 2 complete knucle joints with cups and dust boots and everything for 28 dollars. I was releaved because the boxes where each priced at 29 dollars at first which would have been crazy. Picked up the right M12 washers at Homac so after they boy gets home from school we are going to get it done. Thanks everyone for helping me find the answer as my son has been iffy about driving the car with the tires almost rubbing. Now I can get my roadster back

It is not considered shoddy repairs. If you look at the diagram it clearly states that 12 and 13 inch cars used the washers (#5) so if it was good enough for the factory it should be good enough down the road. Good luck with the repairs.

Upon inspection the knuckles appear to be compacted and replacing them is not expensive. I'm cheap but not in the habbit of doing shoddy repairs.

As you do not want to spend much money on it would just try the 10c washers first.

I will head down to the local Mini shop and see what crazy markup he has on those parts. 30 dollars on the web may be 120 at the local shop because of import taxes here in japan though so I may have to order them if its too much.

No lock bolts. The trumpet is #4 as quoted and the washer is #5 in the same diagram. You will need a 3/8" ID washer from memory but it may be larger. Once you release the shock absorber by the lower mount the trumpet becomes loose and easy to remove.

hmm. dose the stock trumpet have the 2 lock bolts?

the "trumpet" is part #4 in the pic!

so the washer would go between the strut and knuckle joint? like #5 in the schematic from Dimitris. Alternately I can replace the knucle and cup for about 15.00 a side to more completely fix the problem? also if I decide the washer route is the way to go what size inner diameter do I need? I don't see what you would call the trumpet in the diagram

"... is there any measurement I can take".. A loss of 10/15 mm in ride height pretty much equates to a worn knuckle joint bucket (about 3-5 mm thick) for me...  

If you're after a cheap fix just add the washer (50c??) as mal suggests; that will hide the propblem for years. For a few cents more you can probably buy a new plastic bucket and for a few dollars get a whole new joint. 

If MM doesn't have an exploded schematic of the rear suspension then the miniSpares website does.

Cheers, Ian

The knuckle joint is just that - for all intensive purposes a round 'ball' on a short 'stick'; the 'stick' is pressed into the small end of the aluminium suspension strut ('trumpet') and the ball rests within a nylon cup situated in a tabbed recess on the radius arm.  The rubber cone 'doughnut'/'donut' is the spring at the large end of the 'trumpet' and nested in a profile in the subframe.

Our host has a handy parts download reference section:

//www.minimania.com/Downloads.cfm

Suspension:

//www.minimania.com/pdfile/mini8.zip

Upon dismantling the rear suspension you may notice that the ball-end of the knuckle joints are worn flat - should be replaced and are in fact rather inexpensive.  Our host has them.  A nylon cup and rubber dust shield comes complete with the knuckle joint, should you decide to purchase the complete joint, otherwise, nylon cups are available separately because they can be a bit of a bugger to remove from the radius arm.      

here's a good schematic