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 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 11:55AM
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here is the only picture of the engine I have with me.  May not be the correct angle for y'all to see.  Seems like most of the carburetors look the same from the front.  I also apologize for the dirty engine.  This picture was from when I had the over heating issue when I first purchased the car.

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 11:34AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
I made my own version of grille buttons and fastened the grille trim to the grille so everything comes away as an assembly. A few dabs of silicone sealant to the back of the trim prevent chafing of the paint. No need of riv-nuts or similar to hold the trim on.
I really don't need the riv-nut either. Just want everything nice and tight whenever possible. With stainless steel brake lines, rose joints and lots of metal on metal rubbing, 'Rosebud' is a cacophony of rattles, clunks, and harmonic buzzes. Every little bit helps.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 11:26AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN5L1N6ER
Unable to post the photo from my phone. May take me a little while but I’ll get a picture uploaded here shortly. 
Make sure each pic is a jpg file <2mb. MiniMania stopped supporting Safari for uploading pics a couple of years ago, Mac and iOS. I've been using Chrome for uploading pics to the forum. Kinda lame, but oh well…

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 11:12AM
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Unable to post the photo from my phone. May take me a little while but I’ll get a picture uploaded here shortly. 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 10:16AM
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my guess the carb is HS 4.. photo??

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 09:16AM
 Edited:  Aug 1, 2019 09:25AM
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I have another “noob” question. How do I identify the type of carb I have? Not sure if it is a HS4, HIF38, or what.  I’ll try to include a picture of the engine, not sure if that will help. Asking because when ordering a stage one kit for the 998 engine, it asks what type of carburetor I have.

Edit:  have tried to upload the photo but keep getting a blank box with an "x" inside.  Will try again later.

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 09:15AM
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CA
I made my own version of grille buttons and fastened the grille trim to the grille so everything comes away as an assembly. A few dabs of silicone sealant to the back of the trim prevent chafing of the paint. No need of riv-nuts or similar to hold the trim on.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 31, 2019 10:44AM
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 Thank you so much for the information response. The riv nuts and grill caps would be so much better. Went ahead and ordered both.  I will take measurements and figure out what amount of sound dampening  material I’ll need.  I also added the silicone radiator hoses to my wish list!

 Posted: Jul 31, 2019 06:02AM
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rosebud.. very great advise.. later bc

 Posted: Jul 30, 2019 09:12PM
 Edited:  Jul 30, 2019 10:03PM
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Hello Gunslinger! I reread this thread from the beginning and thought I’d give you my take on some of the issues you’ve raised. Keep in mind these are my opinions; they are reasonably well informed, but not the last word by any means.

1) Oil: I think you are wise in choosing a synthetic oil, and 20w-50 is the correct viscosity. You’ll find many who will insist that synthetic oil should not be used in older cars like the Mini, but I’ve never heard a reasonable explanation as to why. Usually, the rationale for using a non-synthetic is  “older engines were built using more primitive alloys and larger tolerances and therefore were designed to use the oil available at the time.” Until I see more convincing information, I'm not buying it.

Additives and heat dissipation notwithstanding, the primary purpose of engine oil is lubrication, and synthetic oil is way slipperier than conventional oil. A couple of caveats; our engines require a zinc additive. If the oil of your choice doesn’t contain zinc, zinc additives are readily available [link]. Caveat no. 2, because our engines share the oil with the transmission, synthetic oil is so slippery that the balk rings (synchros) in the transmission don’t get a good enough bite, and the gears will occasionally crunch during a shift, unless you do a good job of rev-matching. Some synthetics do a better job than others, synchro-wise, so you might want to experiment with different brands. I did, and finally settled on an oil that allows the synchros to do their job reasonably well. 

2) Grill removal: You’ll be surprised at how often you’ll need to remove the grill. Get a set of “Grill Buttons” [link]. I also replaced the sheet metal screws that fasten the upper part of the grill with riv-nuts. Much easer [link].

3) Nosiness: Well placed DynaMat (floor pan, backside of firewall, doors, etc.) will reduce interior noise by 20-30% [link]. Headphones and/or ear plugs will take care of the rest [link].

4) Radiator hoses: I’d replace all of your black, rubber water hoses with silicon [link]. There’s a huge range of quality when it comes to automotive rubber. I wouldn’t risk it. Silicon hoses last a lifetime, plus they look great. Too flashy(?)—get black ones.

Anytime you have a gathering of gearheads there’ll be a wide range of experience and knowledge. This forum is no exception. Some members can assemble a motor with their eyes shut, while others have never changed a spark plug. Most of us fall somewhere in between. The trick is figuring out who’s who. Fortunately, most of the newbies here tend to have more questions than advice, and the experts have a degree of modesty and humility—rare for experts in any field. You’ll figure it out. Good luck!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jul 30, 2019 11:53AM
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CooperTune, that set up sounds absolutely amazing!  The last line made me laugh about the quiet.  HAHA!  One day, I will give my Mini the engine upgrade she deserves.  I am slowly learning my way around the Mini.  I have some mechanical inclination but not enough experience to tackle an engine or transmission rebuild / swap just yet.  If you are ever in upstate SC, let me know. 

 Posted: Jul 30, 2019 04:42AM
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Sounds like you are going to enjoy your mini. I have a 85 1000E which I have clocked 175,000 miles on in the last 17 years. For the first 10 years it was a 1000 with stage one kit. It would run 70 mph all day but that was about it. I replaced that power unit with a 1360 Cooper S with a wide ratio tranny and two over drive drop gears. It now runs 70 mph at 3000 and just under 96 mph at 4000. I have built this combo three times two with carbs and one SPI. I have recently picked up another wide ratio gear box and have several O/D drops on hand. The power, the speed and the quiet. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 29, 2019 01:14PM
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gunslingler.. did you buy your mini also from David Ellison MountainMinis off Ebay.com?? bc

 Posted: Jul 22, 2019 06:02PM
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gunslinger.. call me  1 OCt. 19... I forgot I also have my mini pick up to put together... which will take about a month..  see ya then. later bc

 Posted: Jul 22, 2019 08:24AM
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OMG! Thank you so much! I really do appreciate you doing that!
 

 Posted: Jul 22, 2019 07:53AM
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gunslinger.. I talked to my master mechanic. today.  he said. IF you ever need anything major done.. clutch, engine head work. he can work you in this fall...  we have nut and bolt resto we are finishing now.. for a Fortune top10 CEO.. and couple dozen Chokes to assembly this fall/winter.. just call the shop and leave me a message..  Later bill cox MBA lic NC dealer NC manufacture.. CBP bonded importer with TWIC ACE SCAC and WMI for moke.. Monte Carlo Minis LTD Inc. Earl NC 28038.. phone.. 1.704.487.6406 shop.. 1.704.487.6797 home..  bille.cox@hotmail.com 

 Posted: Jul 20, 2019 11:58AM
 Edited:  Jul 22, 2019 09:04AM
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A 1990 Mini will have the one piece shroud on it with a plastic fan. The radiator can be removed with the shroud still attached to the radiator, i always remove or loosen the belt first so that the fins can be rotated out of the way during the removal process.
Be careful to re use the short bolts when installing the shroud as longer ones will puncture the radiator, new radiators usually come with 10mm metric bolts.
While you have it apart with the two heater hoses disconnected flush out the heater matrix it usually is full of rusty water.


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jul 19, 2019 01:56PM
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For future reference, you can remove really stuck oil filters by driving a screwdriver thru them and using it as a lever.  You are right... keep in mind the mirror image orientation when looking down on the oil filter from above.  

If you haven't bought a manual yet, that should be top on your list. 

As for draining that radiator, a lot of Minis don't have a petcock to drain them.  Just loosen the lower radiator hose and slip it off.  It will make an awful mess so use a large catch basin if you have one. 

You should expect that removing the radiator and its shroud will tax your patience.  It is easier if you have small hands.

If you are fitting a water pump with the bypass hose to the head, consider buying a short length of heavy duty 1/2" heater hose for the job.  It will last much better than a lot of the parts sold for the task.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 19, 2019 01:38PM
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whee.. this is what they make a ZIP saw for.. removing grill in mokes..  later  bc

 Posted: Jul 19, 2019 10:53AM
 Edited:  Jul 19, 2019 10:54AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN5L1N6ER
After a lot of research, I ended up using 20W50 oil. I think Castrol. Changing the oil was an adventure. Finding the oil and filter was a breeze.  Learning I had to buy a new socket just to change the oil (since I didn't have one big enough) was interesting.  Removing the grill to get to the oil filter was surprising.  Removing the old oil filter...well, I will just say that was an adventure. However, everything went well even though it took a little longer than I thought an oil change should.  Now I am completely prepared for all oil changes in the future. 

When I changed the thermostat, I started looking at the entire cooling system.  Some of the hoses are beginning to crack and my current radiator doesn't have a drain plug.  I have enroute a new radiator, radiator cap, fan, top and bottom radiator hoses, and water pump.  I don't think I need a new water pump but since I was replacing the majority of the cooling system, I figured I would go ahead and replace that while everything else was out.
That works on the oil. Be thankful you don't have a Mini with a non-removable grill

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