Benjamin's engine specs-

1098 block overbored +.060" (1152cc), Hypatec pistons and Hastings rings, wedged and balanced -.010" crank, stock 12G295 head with stock valves, Russell Engineering RE13T cam, grey dot clutch with steel backplate, manifold was fabricated by Ben. Carb is an HIF44? turbo one. Ignition by Megajolt.
It made 125+HP at the wheels on a Dyno Dynamics dyno in shootout mode.

Here's a pic.. nope I don't know what the turbo is (except BIG).

DRMINI

that 1152 turbo that benjamin has/had do you know the specks i have a 998 block with 1100 +60 pistons and the 1100 crank ill be pulling the head to put a ported one on with better springs i had looked at turboing it in the past but went away from it but if i got 120hp at the wheels thats half good for a 1.1L...

I just re-read my reprvious message in this thread and found I made an error.  The SW5 cam is gone and I'am now using an APT SCA1-vk Cam designed for Superchargers.  Also installed a smaller pully on the SC and am now running 10 pounds boost. I maintain a redline of 6500RPM and have a shift light to help. Also have an alcohol/water injection system which helps keep things cool. BTW, it is still legally registered for road use and is still 100% Mini!

On straight line acceleration the car is a monster and even with the LSD it is a handful to keep in a staright line.  However I learned this weekend on a long autocross course that the torque steer was not an issue since I was rarely in a straight line.   

VIC roads has a whole bunch of rules for "P" platers some of the rules are only one passanger aged 16-25, cant have more than 6 cylenders, cant have a turbo/super charger etc its all to try stop the D*** heads out thir that decide to do really stupid things on the road..

but its kinder stupid tho cos you can drive a really powerfull v6s that can be more powerfull than some v8s

FYI im not one of those D***heads that hoons evrywher they go i chose my place and time when its safe to have my fun

What kind of rule is that ?

BIG AL

Just bore and stroke what you have.  1430cc

well im realy thinking of going for a 1275 really worked turbo.. but i cant drive a turbo till im on my full licence in 2 years so that sux how ever i could drive it anyay   but id be screwed if i got cought..

I agree with smith1380.  I went thru the same process you are experiencing, but eventually decided on staying with my Mini engine and built from there.  I just completed it last month and the performance is way beyond my expectations both in terms of polite road performance and animal like performance autocrossing and acceleration. 

1380 stage 3 with SW5 cam, Injected, M45 supercharger, 4 engine steadys, and managed by a Canems ECU (developed on mini engines).  Don't have Dyno hp# but expect HP is over 110  at the wheels.  0 to 60 mph in about 5.7 seconds.

Best of all is that it is still 100% Mini!

I note you are in Oz. 

There are hardly any Honda powered Minis in Australia for a few reasons:
Unlike in USA you cannot just build whatever, then go register it. Any engine swap in Oz needs engineering approval by a traffic authority approved chartered engineer.
They oversee your project and sign it off on completion. THEN you can go register it with the state authorities, which all have differing rules.....

Some problems-
1. As said by others above there is major development work making it all fit in a Mini shell, here without affecting its crash worthiness.
2. Lengthening the shell (apart from cosmetic appeal) can be looked on less than favourably by the engineer. Likewise moving the rack back if it compromises steering geometry.
3. The steering rack fouls the Honda transmission on a RHD car.
4. Braking must be upgraded, generally to ventilated rotors, with 4 pot calipers or better.
5. Honda parts in Oz are not that cheap. The ricers have cornered the market somewhat.
6. There are formulae in some states for maximum engine size you can fit, for a turbo car in NSW it is 2x (original weight in Kg) for N/A it is 2.5 or 3.0x (I can't remember which).

The most popular Mini conversions in Oz are to a G13B Suzuki (1300cc, N/A) or Toyota Starlet 4EFTE (1330cc, turbo). Both can be persuaded to fit even into a roundnose with RHD and standard front wings and steering rack location. 
The Suzuki is a good engine, but the gearbox is fragile if turboed.
The Starlet turbo is good for 200HP+ at wheels, just with a bigger turbo and stock internals.
I assisted in the 1st build here of a Starlet Turbo Mini.
For more info, come join us on the www.ausmini.com forum.

Personally I prefer an A series in it.  `Benjamin' on the ausmini forum has got around 127HP at the wheels from an 1152 now, with a big turbo and decent self-made manifold.

As someone who owns both a Honda powered mini, and a Supercharged 1275, I will give you some advice.  You can best preserve the "mini" driving experience with a High output 1275 based A series.  If you want a quick mini to drive on the road occasionally, and have fun with then I recommend a supercharger kit on a 1275.  If you go overbore to 1380, and change the cam, 140HP is easily attainable.  At this output, your mini will be FAST.  It will still drive well, and you don't have to cut any of it up.  If budget is an issue, as with most, this will cost half what an engine swap will. 

The Honda powered mini is a beast, and requires a ton of development, and you may not like the way it drives- the LSD, and wide offset wheels make on- power straight driving a serious challenge.  Also, as stated by someone else here recently, anything over 150HP results in additional tire smoke, and no additional forward speed.  If you want more than 150-160 HP, you need to put the engine where the rear seat is and drive the rear wheels. 

This smacks of abandoned project and the death of another car straight away...

Try a "big" well-sorted A-Series first (easy to do), and then try a poor Vtec conversion (which most of them are) and see which you prefer.
For the eventual cost of a conversion you can have a screaming proper engine.

Any of the above options then would be a fine choice for you... as NJ and minimike stated, come join us at 16vminiclub, there is a wealth of knowlege there and if you want to view some build logs to get an idea of what is involved in doing a conversion then it would give you a good idea where to start.

Since it is a peppy daily driver that your after I'd consider something under 150hp.  Given the weight of these cars, you do not need much to make it feel great

Do a search on this board and visit the vendor's websites to get current information. Mike is spot on with his comment about the 16vminiclub site.

Oh, and another site is VTEC MINI's (sic).

N J

I have one from Steve Alexandar for a B series kit. He built this kit so you dont have to extend the front end or cut up the intake manifold like the MTB2 kit. Steve has done a great job on this kit and provides alot of the parts (at a reasonable price) if you dont want to build them your self.

Minitec does build the D series kit with the original length front end and sheet metal option but you have to cut up the intake and attach silicone elbos.

The only think I wish I had the option for on my kit is the A/C. This isn't too big of a deal considering I dont have A/C in my truck anymore anyway... So I guess I am used to it now...