Would've been nice if you use the song "My Way"  by Frank Sinatra.

or "Hiding Inside"  by Kenny Loggins,,,, hiding inside because most of the mini owners are hiding something inside the closet,,,,hahaha! oops! i miss playing with my Barbie doll.

I always liked the way road graders can cant the front wheels the same angle to counteract the lateral push of the blade. Up her they are used for road snow clearing, usually with a wing plow on the side and the wheels canted over farther than this, even when going straight. It looks weird when they aren't shoving snow and just traveling with the wheels still canted, at 40mph!

Tilting wheels AND an articulated chassis:

This is cool driving

Today = Drove them - Both Moke and 63' -  with 5 others - In the Charlotte St Patricks Day Parade! 

After driving ours home Wed night in the middle of a S.E. gale...50 plus knots...and driving rain/snow...wipers worked. So do the brakes with a nice new master cyl. Now it stops when I want. Yes!!!! Took it for a drive yestarday afternoon in the sun again. Folks in Wal Mart lot loved it. Had to restrain several of The Creatures from trying to put it into the shopping buggy return rack!

Of course there will always be those who overdo it...

Early king-pin limitations would explain it I suppose. Here's what was explained to me...

I was invited to hang out with the Mullin Museum guys at Laguna Seca last year < http/www.mullinautomotivemuseum.com > Beautiful website, check it out. They were there racing 3 or 4 vintage Bugattis, a Talbot Lago (I think) and a couple of Delahayes. The cars all had tons of positive ft wheel camber.

One of the driver/mechanics told me that because of the extreme oversteer these cars have, they actually de-tune the front wheels by dialing in positive camber to induce understeer to compensate for the rear and hopefully achieve neutral handling. On the other hand, with a fixed king-pin arrangement, as you pointed out, how do you do you adjust?

15 to 20 degrees of ft wheel camber gives you some idea of how tail-happy these cars must have been!

Very nice—proper lift. I'm hoping to low-ball it and a get by w/ two $99 lifts and a couple of 2x4s. Will advise.  

I followed the link you provided and read the discussion about recessing the lift into the floor. Baby—that's the ticket! I even Googled Northern Tool for electric jackhammers... then I came to my senses. Whew, that was close.

See my updated previous response. In the pictures you posted, you can see those cars have beam axles (actually a tube in the Bugattis).  These are clearly not independent suspensions. At each end of the beam is the pivot joint for steering.  If you look closely, you can see the angle of the pivot axis (the kingpin angle) points toward the tread ground patch of the tire. If they don't steering gets tough. The kingpin is the bar of steel that forms the hinge pin of the joint.
In the white car, the wheels have little camber, so the kingpins angle out the most. The problem with angled kingpins is that on full lock, the turned wheels change their angle to the road surface the most, affecting handling badly. (We are not considering caster angle here.)
 In the cornering Bugatti, the kingpin angles are a little more vertical, resulting in some positive camber. It isn't as easy to see because the  whole picture has a tilt, and the cornering forces are affecting both the tires and the car's stance - the right hand wheel is barely touching. The static Bugatti has even less kingpin angle, almost vertical, resulting in even more camber. Bugatti was probably experimenting in king-pin angle among other geometry to optimize steering, which was probably brutal, as shown by the grim face of the cornering driver. On these cars, the steering box was well behind the front axle, had a drag link up to a steering arm on one wheel (driver's side of car) and a connecting rod between the wheels. Very tractor-like.

Because the front beam axles had forged or cast ends there was no adjustment of king-pin angle at all.

Rosebud. It is a car lift I got used off Craigslist for $800. Here is a link about getting it.

//restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=785.0

Also another link about using this type of lift with our small cars.

//restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=843.0

So Willie... the lift. Hows it working for you? Is it a motorcycle lift perhaps—electric, pneumatic, hydro/electric? I've been looking for a compact lift that's no bigger then it has to be... just enough capacity for a Mini but robust enough to trust overnight.

Northern Tool has has a motorcycle lift that looks interesting. Item# 46238. I'm thinking two, 1 fore and 1 aft. Just looking at the pics though, I see a couple of things that may make it unsuitable; the length for the pump foot lever—it looks as if it might foul on the front and rear cowlings. Also, it looks to me that there would be considerable fore & aft movement of the lift platform when raising and lowering—no big deal maybe. 

Any thoughts? Alternatives?

So, this is what I'm talking about... why did vintage racers carry so much positive camber? Twenty years later, poof!, everyone's running negative camber. I've posed this question to several vintage racer-type authorities over the years—to no avail. Spent some time with a guy in Monterey last year with serious racing chops and got what I consider my 1st credible answer.     Anyone?

Nothing...BUT tomorrow we will prepare all 4 doors & bonnet for U Blast then epoxy primer...

what i did to my mini today?, i did some thorough cleaning 

Rosebud :  I updated my "Kingpin" explanation to go with your 'negative/positive' camber correction.
(I really struggled with your reversed view of the camber issue. All good now.)

Negative camber is common on cars that are used competitively.  Whether racing, track days, autoxing or just driven spiritedly.  It keeps the outside tire in a turn near vertical to keep the tread in even contact with the road.  If you watch NASCAR, watch sometimes during a caution lap, the outside tire has negative camber, tire tilts in, and the inside tire tilts out.  

It was on the woodie in the center when we got it and that is where I out the other one as well.
Not sure what the proper location is/was.

Very attractive pair you have there.

Your AA badge raises a question for me.  I recently acquired a badge of the correct vintage for my 62.  I see you have both of yours centred...is/was there a preferred or recommended position for the badge?... I'm guessing not and that it's merely owners choice...thought I'd check though

Those old spoked wheels did not have much offset, if any. Kingpin axis must pass close to the middle of the tire tread circumference, or difficult steering will result. So the kingpin axis angled outward toward the road. But if Kingpin angle is too great, steering gets weird. So, the logical solution was to tilt the wheel, making positive camber. On today's cars, the kingpin angle is the axis through the ball joints, but back then, the axis was through the kingpin. Look at the front of one of those old racers and you should see the king pin joints - the hinge-like joint that allows the front wheels to steer left/right.

On the picture in the link you can see the steering joints angle toward the tire road patches.

Ford T Kingpins

[EDIT] Oops. Got my negative/positive mixed up. Meant to say many vintage racers have extreme positive camber—apparent not just during cornering. And 'trigger' got it right—'tmsmith's' girls are indeed  sporting negative camber. 

Here's a weird question I've always wondered about—and recently had answered...

"Why do so many vintage era (think spokes) racers seem to have such extreme [EDIT] positive front wheel camber?"

Anyone have a theory? [EDIT] Negitive camber I get. But why would early performance vehicles have positive camber? 

Both wagons have fully adjustable suspension front and rear, both recently aligned by Roger Kraus in Castro Valley.