Impulse wet to dry suspension purchase.
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softer spring rate at rear would be better so no value there as an upgrade. There is also the axle pin dry vs wet which is a
large press job. Hi-Los with a longer drive tube will be requires at rear as opposed to dry arms there is also different
hand brake cables. As for drilling the upper arms 5/16 to 3/8 is not a big bite with a sharp bit and a drill press. Steve (CTR)
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Michael
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Even MM recommends switching the subframes and suspension components to dry ones before using their kit.
I only had to deal with the rear since my front suspension is all custom, but I'm using the original Elf hydro rear arms with coil springs, along with a special spacer/spring perch I got from Graham at Heritage Garage.
But Alex is right on the money. If I hadn't done all of the other custom work on my car, I would have left the hydro alone.
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So I’ve purchased the cones, hi-lows, shocks and mounts kit. I did read that the rear stub axles needed to be replaced for proper installation. I’m hearing all of you and frankly feeling a little annoyed that a conversion kit wouldn’t come complete.
so if I sourced the front upper arms from a dry suspension instead of drilling, and purchased the rear stub axles, I’d still need to modify the front subframe. This is sounding more expensive than I was expecting. GAH!! I just want to drive my car.
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Even MM recommends switching the subframes and suspension components to dry ones before using their kit.
I only had to deal with the rear since my front suspension is all custom, but I'm using the original Elf hydro rear arms with coil springs, along with a special spacer/spring perch I got from Graham at Heritage Garage.
But Alex is right on the money. If I hadn't done all of the other custom work on my car, I would have left the hydro alone.
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STOP !
Aside from the other excellent advice regarding the modification/ruination of the subframes to accomodate the rubber cones (if you've gone that way) there are other things to consider...
Before you lay a spanner on the car, I've had a look at the Mania advertised kits and they won't work without additional bits.
https://www.minimania.com/part/MMKT0909/Classic-Austin-Mini-Hydrolastic-Wet-To-Dry-Suspension-Conversion-Kit
https://www.minimania.com/part/MMKT0902/Classic-Austin-Mini-Hydrolastic-Wet-To-Dry-With-Hi-lo-Suspension
Neither of these kits contains either replacement dry rear arms or replacement dry rear stub axles.
The rear dampers therefore have nowhere to mount on hydro arms.
https://www.minimania.com/part/2A7351/Classic-Mini-Stub-Axle-Right-Rear-Swing-Arm-Dry-Suspension-With-Shock-Mount
At the front, the top arms will need removing and have the bump-stop hole enlarging to allow the fitment of the front damper mounting pin, or again the damper has nowhere to mount.
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The Mk1-Forum has several articles on fixes for hydro problems. Though I could not find the article on fitting repair (yet) I suggest you Google using the string " site:mk1-forum.net hydro ". You'll find lots of articles that might prove useful regarding hydro repair and replace.
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