Classic Mini Clutch System

If I were keeping score, I would have to say that the most common questions on our tech line involve clutch problems. Many of these are from reputable repair shops!

The usual complaint is that the clutch pedal is right on the floor, and the common belief is that the problem can be remedied by replacing the clutch disc. This is not the case! The problem is more often one (or both) of two things: Improper adjustment, or mechanical wear of the linkage. The clutch disengages as the top of the arm (#27) pivots away from the cover (#17.) The object of adjustment is to eliminate any free play so that the hydraulic motion moves the arm instead of just taking up the slop.

Adjust the clutch free end play

A) Remove the return spring 1G5999 (#36)

B) Pull the top of the arm away from the engine until it stops

C) Loosen the locknut and unscrew the stop bolt (#39) until it contacts the arm, then screw it back to .015" clearance, still pulling the arm back

D) Tighten the jam nut on the stop bolt, replace the return spring, and you're done.

E) be sure the Stop nut #25 and not touching the cover (#17)


If the pedal is still low, it's likely there is wear in the linkage components.

Check for worn clevis pins CLZ512 (Pedal to master cylinder), CLZ628 (#29) or CLZ518 (#33) and replace if necessary.
Check that the eyelet of the pushrod 13H396 (#38) is not elongated.
The clutch arm (#38) is very prone to wear at the lower ball, which should be round, not worn flat on one side.
Lastly, the master cylinder pushrod may wear where the clevis pin rides. This pushrod is not available separately, only with a new master cylinder.