One of the more common questions asked by Mini owners is "why doesn't my clutch disengage properly?" or "why is it hard to engage gears?" The usual symptom is that the clutch engages right at the floor and you find yourself embedding the pedal in the carpet to avoid grinding gears. Given that the clutch worked properly when the car left the factory the obvious answer is 'wear'.
This article has been written owing to the increasing amount of people who call Mini Spares stating that their 1275cc Injection type Mini will not start after fitting a new clutch, especially when they have purchased the parts from another supplier rather than a Mini specialist.
Maybe your Mini clutch is working fine, or the action just doesn’t seem the same, or you're hearing noises you don’t remember hearing before. The following are some quick checks you can do to make sure the clutch keeps operating correctly or to reveal areas that may need some attention.
There is only one original Verto/Valeo clutch plate and is fashioned more like a ‘conventional’ clutch plate - it has a sprung centre section. Four springs around the centre section of the plate take up shock, and supposedly reduce the likelihood of judder. It was an attempt by Rover to improve the clutch take-up and engagement to make it more like a 'modern' car.
There are generally three clutch plate types to be concerned with these days - standard pre-Verto, fiber rally/race, and sintered race. Your driving style will be the determining factor on which plate and which diaphragm type you choose.
Classic Mini Clutch System
If I were keeping score, I would have to say that the most common questions on our tech line involve clutch problems. Many of these are from reputable repair shops!
The usual complaint is that the clutch pedal is right on the floor, and the common belief is that the problem can be remedied by replacing the clutch disc. This is not the case! The problem is more often one (or both) of two things: Improper adjustment, or mechanical wear of the linkage. The clutch disengages as the top of the arm (#27) pivots away from the cover (#17.) The object of adjustment is to eliminate any free play so that the hydraulic motion moves the arm instead of just taking up the slop.
Adjust the clutch free end play
A) Remove the return spring 1G5999 (#36)
B) Pull the top of the arm away from the engine until it stops
C) Loosen the locknut and unscrew the stop bolt (#39) until it contacts the arm, then screw it back to .015" clearance, still pulling the arm back
D) Tighten the jam nut on the stop bolt, replace the return spring, and you're done.
E) be sure the Stop nut #25 and not touching the cover (#17)
If the pedal is still low, it's likely there is wear in the linkage components.
Check for worn clevis pins CLZ512 (Pedal to master cylinder), CLZ628 (#29) or CLZ518 (#33) and replace if necessary. Check that the eyelet of the pushrod 13H396 (#38) is not elongated. The clutch arm (#38) is very prone to wear at the lower ball, which should be round, not worn flat on one side. Lastly, the master cylinder pushrod may wear where the clevis pin rides. This pushrod is not available separately, only with a new master cylinder.
Rob, If I understand you correctly and the master cylinder is pumping fluid to the slave but the clutch rod (and, therefore, the arm) isn't moving, either there is lots of air in the system, or the slave is not working or the clutch is way out of adjustment.
From:
Rob
Date:
09/13/2015 @ 5:08 PM
Comment:
Have a 1987 Austin Mini. 998 The clutch pedal goes right to the floor very freely and the slave rod (piston) isn't moving.(wont disengage) The master is pumping fluid. What the heck?
From:
Cheleker
Date:
07/27/2015 @ 8:40 AM
Comment:
allives, Start by resetting the clutch arm stop bolt gap to the .020" as indicated in the article.
I really need help i have a 1970 classic mini pre-verto clutch. It has always worked fine but the master cylinder started to leak. Since it is old i decided to buy a new master, slave and sstl braided hose. After i installed it and bled the system and i step on the clutch it would not engage in any gear meaning the clutch is not releasing. What could this be? I noticed the clutch pedal now is a bit lower meaning the pushrod of the master must be a tad shorter. This is because the master cylinders are different. Pls. Help
From:
Cheleker
Date:
12/22/2014 @ 7:05 PM
Comment:
Check the pedal shaft. It should remain stationary with the two pedals (brake and clutch) pivoting separately on the shaft. If the one or both of the pedals have "frozen" to the shaft, the shaft can break free and rotate. If the pedals are fozen to the shaft, stepping on either pedal will also activate the other. Step on the clutch and the brake would go down, too. That's the only way I can think of that stepping on the clutch pedal would stop the car.
From:
jeff
Date:
12/12/2014 @ 6:44 PM
Comment:
I will start driving and as the rpm climb in first gear and I press the clutch pedal to shift to second, the car quickly slows all the way to a stop as if I was applying the brakes instead of the clutch. The shifter will not allow me to go into second gear until the car is then stopped. I almost want to say it feels as if the clutch is over engaging and the force of it is what is stopping the car. I am waiting for a throttle cable I've ordered through you and I can give more info after my next road test. The engine runs smooth and the motion in the clutch pedal and on the arm is smooth and without play.
From:
Cheleker
Date:
12/11/2014 @ 8:20 AM
Comment:
Jeff, sorry. Confused by your description of what happens when you step on the clutch pedal when you are driving the car. The pedal won't go down? The engine stops? The car stops?
From:
jeff
Date:
12/10/2014 @ 11:19 AM
Comment:
69 1275 non verto mini. Just finished the rebuild on the motor and trans. Took it for a road test and every time I step on the clutch pedal to shift gears, it jolts to a stop and is unable to shift until the car is stopped. When off, it smoothly shifts through all gears including reverse. I have a new clutch arm, spring, oil seal, and clutch. All points of possible wear seem fine and I have adjusted free play as described above and service manual. Any ideas as to what could be the issue?
From:
johann
Date:
12/09/2014 @ 12:21 AM
Comment:
Hi I have a 1981 mini and there is no clutch. I cannot see where to adjust anything.....not so good with cars. However, I can se the cilynders in the engin but have no idea what to do. Can you help? My email adres is [email protected].
From:
kenatminimania
Date:
12/04/2014 @ 8:17 AM
Comment:
Hello Ginny,
Our experience with clutch wear is all over the map. Some needed replacement at less than 20K, others can get over 100K. Some factors that can contribute to a short clutch life includes driving style and type of terrain (lots of hills). There may be mechanical issues that contribute to premature wear, but that will be very difficult to prove....
MINI considers the clutch to be a 'wear item', so it will be difficult to get warranty coverage - but I would recommend you approach your local MINI service advisor and plead your case. It's rare, but I have heard of MINI providing some assistance with the repair...
Good luck to you!
From:
Ginny
Date:
12/04/2014 @ 6:44 AM
Comment:
Have a 2010 Cooper S Clubman. Clutch went after 43,000 miles. What is your history with clutch failures? Seems like this is a common problem and since the car is out of warranty I am stuck with a major repair bill of $3,600 (clutch replacement + routine maintenance), plus cost of long distance towing. Is this typical cost to replace a clutch? Do you know if MINI assists owners with these repairs? A clutch should not need replacement this early. My last car had 139,000 on the original clutch.
From:
Cheleker
Date:
10/22/2014 @ 9:01 AM
Comment:
robster, The grinding sound when you push the clutch pedal down is most likely a bad clutch throw out bearing. The vibration could have something to do with the throw out bearing, too, but is more likely to be an issue with the clutch disc. Small amounts of oil from the primary gear seal mixed with clutch dust initially can make the disc "grabby." As the oil leak gets worse, the vibrations lessen but the cluth starts to slip -- noticable at first in the shift from 3rd to 4th. Or you could have worn motor mounts and/or worn stabilizer bar bushings. Or...a combination of all three.
From:
robster
Date:
10/21/2014 @ 9:55 PM
Comment:
cheleker, what do you think is the reason why my mini vibrates everytime i shift gears, especially during take off. And at idle,everytime i step on the clutch pedal i hear a grinding sound. i have the long arm,which i think is a pre verto clutch.
From:
Alan
Date:
10/14/2014 @ 8:42 AM
Comment:
I was a mechanic on BL cars over thirty years ago. If all of the above comments fail try this. It took me over a week to figure out the problem. I had changed and fitted a new clutch, the pedal was rock hard and wouldn't move. The solution is the end casing needs replacing, minute cracks that cannot be seen by the naked eye appear on the inside of the casing, when the clutch is pressed these cracks expand and will not allow the clutch pedal to be depressed. I have only seen this once in all the time I was a mechanic.
From:
Cheleker
Date:
06/05/2014 @ 7:58 AM
Comment:
The usual cause is that the flywheel housing/primary gear seal is leaking oil out onto the clutch assembly.
From:
carl
Date:
06/05/2014 @ 6:23 AM
Comment:
74 mini after i drive about 4 miles the clutch slips i rev the engine up going down the road at about 40 mph nothing happens speed stays same as high as i rev it up it should be going 70 to 80 mph HELP!
From:
Cheleker
Date:
03/21/2011 @ 8:31 PM
Comment:
Zell, Sorry. I'm not sure I understand what you have written and I can't figure out how it applies to your original problem of not being able to press the clutch pedal down.
Regarding moving the clutch arm by hand, once the spring from the arm to the slave is removed, the arm can be moved, but only a very small amount...only as much as there is clearance between the arm and the adjusting bolt. (Make sure it is set correctly based on instructions in your workshop manual.)
From:
Zell
Date:
03/20/2011 @ 11:32 PM
Comment:
Its a pre-verto with the long clutch arm, is it normally easy to pull that arm away from the slave cause i cant get it to move left however i did screw in that little stopped on the bell housing which made the arm move towards the slave a little. Does the arm require alot of hydralic pressure, if so im tempted to put a new slave and flex house on. Thanks
From:
Cheleker
Date:
03/20/2011 @ 9:23 PM
Comment:
Zell, there are a couple of clutch types, pre-verto and verto. The verto is the later type and the clutch slave mounts at a downward pointing angle and operates a short, stubby clutch arm. The earlier, pre-verto slave is mounted horizontally and operates a longer arm.
A few possiiblities. 1. If pre-verto, make sure the two, big stop nuts are not loose on the end of the throw out bearing carrier. If the lock nut is loose, the adjusting nut could work forward towards the clutch cover and would stop the arm from moving. 2. You may need to remove the clutch arm. It could be stuck, or the t/o bearing carrier (into which the bottom ball of the arm fits) may be locking into place. Usually this is a rust issue, though, and is unlikely to happen "suddenly." 3. It is possible that the flex hose to the slave has broken down internally enough so that fluid can't get to the slave.
From:
Zell
Date:
03/20/2011 @ 3:01 AM
Comment:
I recently just bought a mini, and suddenly the clutch pedal will not depress at all, there are no leaks around the master or slave and i have removed the slave to check if it is moving free which it is, i also tried to push the clutch arm to the left after i took off the slave but it didnt move at all which i guess means he clutch is engaged however if i force the car into gear nothing happenings. Any help would be great. Thanks
From:
Cheleker
Date:
11/08/2010 @ 8:35 AM
Comment:
Kat, I have to assume you have a pre-Verto clutch set up; i.e., with the long clutch arm and a clutch slave cylinder that sits horizontally on and attached to the flywheel housing. The information you followed was specific to the pre-Verto. If I understand your question, the two symptoms are counter indicative. Normally, when you can not get a car into or out of a gear, the clutch system is not moving far enough to release the clutch disk from its clamped position between the flywheel and the pressure plate. This can be because: the two, big locking nuts (throw out nuts -- see your workshop manual) are set incorrectly; the clutch adjustment bolt (discussed above) is set incorrectly; there are worn parts, as discussed above; the system is not bled correctly and still contains air; the slave and or master are not functioning correctly; or the slave hose has deteriorated internally and should be replaced. Or any combination of the former! On the other hand, a slipping clutch usually indicates that the clutch is adjusted so that the setting won't allow the clamping to take place fully. I suggest you start over with the basics to make sure everything is operating as it should; including, resetting the clutch adjustments. One last possibility for the slipping clutch is that the flywheel/primary gear seal is leaking badly. On most Minis, you can find a symptom of this by looking at the bottom of the round section of the flywheel housing. There is a small hole there (usually with a cotter pin rattling around in it to keep the hole open). If you are seeing a lot of oil coming out of the hole, the flywheel/primary gear seal has gone bad and will need to be replaced.
From:
kat
Date:
11/03/2010 @ 12:34 PM
Comment:
lve just replaced the clutch master, and blead the line( pedal is hard to push now). also lve done the check list, up above. my problem now is it doesnt want to disingage,(l have to turn car off to shift when comming to a stop..and its slipping when taking off.
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